A Taste of Italy in Fort Bragg

by Helene Chalfin

Escaping the heat is always a good thing to do, so when I got a few days off, I made a beeline to the Mendocino coast. While exploring historic downtown Fort Bragg to see what was going on, I came upon a sign: BAKERY! Driven by a mocha craving, I dove into a narrow walkway festooned with Italian flags.

I heard inviting Italian music as I walked past dining tables inside a beautifully lit, covered outdoor patio with a small music stage area. Turning left, I followed the signs—“Keep Going, Almost There!”—that led to the bakery’s green door.

Besides the wave of delicious aromas, I could hear lively chatter and distinctive Italian music. A woman in a colorful hat greeted me: “Buon Giorno! You found us!” she exclaimed with a smile.

Immediately, I spotted a display case containing a rainbow of gelato flavors: gold salted caramel, deep chocolate, raspberry sorbetto, and the green of the chocolate chip mint. The smell of cinnamon, rosemary and vanilla filled the air. Fresh croissants, grandiose cinnamon rolls, and sugar-dusted cannoli filled the cases. For fans of savory snacks there was pizza by the slice. Pillowy herbed focaccia sat alongside a frittata loaded with veggies and cheese.

Then a big guy (Chef Joe, I was told) turned the corner, arms full of freshly baked bread. I remembered a shop in Florence next to the Duomo where I could find all the traditional treats. This place had that feel. Outside that Mercato were some tables with umbrellas to provide shade. I would often sit there to enjoy my coffee and the view.

Now, as I peered through the front door onto Franklin Street, I saw bright green tables and red umbrellas—exactly as I remembered from Florence. No Duomo to gaze upon, but I was immersed in a truly Italian experience—all while in the center of Fort Bragg, California.

For insight into this slice of Italy on the North Coast, I turned to the lady in the hat—Kathleen Murray, owner and wife of Chef Joe. “Welcome,” she said. “This is Cucina Verona Mercato!” She explained that the patio I had just walked through is their pet-friendly outdoor dining space. “You should come back later to hear some local musicians. Our restaurant Cucina Verona, the orange building on Laurel Street that you walked past on your way here, is where we serve homemade Italian food each day of the week.”

I learned that the Mercato store on Franklin (just around the corner from the restaurant) has featured Italian-sourced food and drinks since 2018. The couple enjoys these authentic Italian artisinal ingredients and uses them generously in their recipes. The Mercato allows them to share that joy with the community.

Chef Joe Harris holds a tray of his gigantic cinnamon rolls.

Kathleen welcomes guests into the Mercato.

This year, Chef Joe and Kathleen have taken the Mercato a step further, offering their own fresh-baked goods every morning. In addition to the Italian meats and cheeses, multi-flavored gelatos, and custom coffee drinks already offered at the Mercato, customers can savor fresh-baked pastries starting every morning at 8:00am.

“We were inspired by the medinas—maze-like outdoor markets in Italy,” Kathleen shared. “We created the additional side entrance to the morning bakery so people can follow signs through the side walkway patio entrance like you did. It’s a little meandering, but it adds to the sense of discovery.”

At this point, I was ready for a double espresso to wake me up (or not), from this Italian dream. I put my order in. Soon I heard the encouraging noise of fresh espresso beans being ground. While Kathleen made sure the crema on my espresso was perfect, I grabbed a basket to fill with the tastes and memories of foods I had savored in Italy.

The foods and wines at the Mercato are imported from the heart of Italy, where GMO products are more highly regulated. Kathleen shared stories of the origins of the curated specialty foods and her life with Chef Joe. It turns out Kathleen’s partner in life and business is a Renaissance man in the fine old Italian tradition. In addition to being the chef and baker, he is also a winemaker who produces his own Pinot Noir. And sometimes he joins the musicians who play at the restaurant, strumming along on his bass. Between pastries in the morning and fine dining at night, there is a plateful of passion at Mercato Bakery and Cucina Verona Ristorante in Fort Bragg.

Mercato Bakery
353 N. Franklin St., Fort Bragg
(707) 972-3698 | cucinamercato.com

Open Mon-Sat 8:00am - 6:00pm, Sun 9:00am - 5:00pm

Cucina Verona Ristorante
124 E. Laurel St., Fort Bragg
(707) 964-6844 | cucinaverona.com

Lunch Tue - Fri 11am - 3pm. Dinner nightly 5pm - 9pm. Brunch weekends 10am - 3pm.

Helen Chalfin is a local musician and songwriter. When not sharing her music, she is following her passion for native plants with a focus on education and action. Coordinator of the Caspar Gorse Eradication Project, she assists in securing grants to improve our world.

Exterior photo courtesy of Mercato Bakery. All other photos by Helene Chalfin.