Oco Time
Ukiah’s Favorite Sushi Spot for 20+ Years
by Holly Madrigal
As the publisher of this magazine, I often get asked what my favorite restaurant is. While this changes from season to season and moment to moment, one restaurant is so delicious, so fresh and innovative, that it never fails to come to mind. It's a place where, after you dine, you feel nourished by both the quality of the food and by the care and attention of the owners. This gem is Oco Time, located on Church Street in Ukiah and now open for 23 years.
Owners Yoshiki and Naoko Sakane have always understood the vision of Word of Mouth magazine, and they have supported us from the start. Oco Time is often my choice for a family celebration, birthday dinner, or a quick meal. When friends are in from out of town, it is my joy to share a visit to this unique place.
I asked owner Naoko how she keeps Oco Time evolving even after so many years. She says it is a balance between their wonderful staff and customers. Many regulars have become friends over the years. “We’ve introduced a variety of items to our menu, including various styles of omusubi, sushi burritos, poki bowls, fried sushi, and ramen. Whenever we are inspired by something exciting, we test it out as a monthly special or at It’s Time (the grab-and-go spot next door) to see how our customers respond.” Naoko mentions that social media has played a role in their evolution as well, allowing them to learn about different dishes from around the world that might work on their menu.
“Sometimes, guests looking for traditional Japanese food are surprised by our style. But as it says on our sign, we are a California Cuisine and Japanese Restaurant. Many of our most popular items were actually co-created through suggestions from our staff and customers,” Naoko shares. ”Things like heavy sauces, garlic, cream cheese, or deep-fried sushi are unheard of in traditional spots in Japan!” she adds. Even though she was hesitant at times with some of these menu ideas, she has come to see them as part of their style—”a fun, delicious mix of Japanese tradition, California vibes, and a heavy splash of Mexican flavor. It’s a taste you can’t really find in Japan!” she laughs.
The couple feels extremely lucky to have such a dedicated staff—the team’s skills and strength have been a big part of their success. Their manager, Omar Mollinedo, has worked at Oco Time for more than two decades. “Omar brings the creativity,” says Naoko. “Our dining staff are our biggest cheerleaders—they get so pumped for every new menu and love sharing that joy with our guests.”
Naoko continues, “Even our cocktails are a team effort, inspired by what’s trending online. Seeing a guest’s face light up when they try a new creation is the best reward. That blend of digital inspiration and real-world connection is definitely the highlight of the last ten years for us.”
At a time when the world is experiencing such upheaval, the Oco Time slogan for their sushi, “Eat a piece for peace,” is especially resonant. When I asked Naoko to reflect on the current political moment, her words carried specific wisdom. “I believe that no matter what is happening in the world, practicing peace or cultivating peace can start exactly where you are standing right now. I remember being in San Francisco during the Gulf War, pushing my young child in a stroller during a massive anti-war protest. The city was chaotic, and there was a small, brave group of counter-protesters there too. Tension was high. But then, I saw a woman carrying an armful of flowers. She was walking around with a huge smile, handing them out to everyone—regardless of which side they supported. Her presence was like an oasis. When people took a flower, their faces instantly softened into a smile. That was when I first realized the difference between protesting war and cultivating peace. We all choose how to respond to the world’s challenges, and I chose to be the one who offers flowers.”
Naoko and Yoshiki grew up in Hiroshima, Japan, where peace education was a large part of the school curriculum. Every August remembrances and discussions about World War II would be organized. The lessons were intense and made a strong impression on them both.
When the pair moved to the US and eventually Northern California, they took to heart the work of peace in their own lives. Eventually Naoko’s gaze turned inward. “I started to understand that the reasons for conflict in the world are often reflected in the mirror: my own dislikes, anger, judgments, guilt, or resentment. I feel that unless I resolve the conflict within myself, I cannot truly see peace in the world. My approach is to look at my own inner struggles and heal them, knowing that we are all connected to every life and every phenomenon.
“When I feel judgment in my heart, I realize, ‘Ah, this is why the world is still at war.’ When I can be kind to someone even when I’m having a hard time, I feel the world move one step closer to peace.” After a pause she adds, “If I can hand out smiles like that woman handed out flowers, that is my contribution. I believe the shortest path to world peace is the peace within each individual’s heart.”
Reflecting on what is on the horizon for the next ten years, Naoko says that Yoshiki is expanding their garden, and they are working to get the permits necessary to grow some of their ingredients for the restaurant. He is having a great time experimenting with soil and hydroponics. They may grow green onions, for example, and shiso leaves. Both are examples of crops that can supplement what they buy from suppliers. The restaurant industry has not escaped the higher food prices, so every ingredient that they can grow themselves will help keep costs down.
Naoko credits support from their customers for the restaurant’s longevity, saying, “The reason we’ve been able to keep going with such joy is the thanks and appreciation we receive from our guests. Through this restaurant, I’ve collected more words of gratitude than I could have ever earned in my own lifetime. Keeping people happy is, and always will be, our biggest motivation.” It’s especially satisfying to see customers who first came in as kids now return as adults with their own families.
When looking toward the future, Naoko wants to “deepen that cycle of gratitude between our guests, our staff, and the community.” She says that Ukiah recently became the place where she and Yoshiki have lived the longest. “We came here from a small seaside town in Hiroshima with no connections, and now, we’ve raised our kids here and kept this business going with so much support. Our goal is simple: to keep stacking up those moments where customers say, ‘Thank you, I’ll be back.’”
Oco Time
111 West Church St., Ukiah
Open Tue – Fri 11:30am – 8:30pm, Sat 4:00pm – 8:30pm
Holly Madrigal delights in sharing what’s great about Mendocino County. She enjoys meaningful work with the Mendocino Land Trust and publishing this magazine.
