Publisher’s Note
By Holly Madrigal
For those who have never had the pleasure (sarcasm) of filling out an online dating app, let me reveal some of the experience. In addition to summarizing your whole essence in a pithy yet intriguing paragraph, you are given the opportunity to answer prompts so that others can get a sense of your personality. These are questions like, “If you could only eat one food for the rest of your life ...,” and “If you could have any superpower ...,” and my favorite: “My zombie apocalypse plan is ...” To this point, my apocalypse plan is, quite simply, community. It is the connective bonds of neighbors helping neighbors, of trust and reliance on those other than yourself, that will see us through whatever challenges we face.
This issue is full of stories that highlight the many ways in which we take care of one another. Feeding others is a fundamental expression of care, and the crew at El Mocajete (p7) does so with style, serving up delicious Mexican food in eye-popping platefuls to ensure that even the most ravenous appetite will leave satisfied. The Caspar Community Center has elevated community connection to an art form, serving a scrumptious monthly breakfast that goes above and beyond mere pancakes (p11).
Further up the coast, Janie Larsen-Notmeyer is busy growing food for the soul. She coaxes the most luxurious dahlia blooms out of her small farm— Janie’s Dahlias—and offers those colorful bursts of joy through the farmers markets she attends (p27). And down in Point Arena, Jaqueleine Strock of Roots Apothecary has a deep background in and passion for traditional plant medicine (p21), providing customers with tinctures, teas, salves, and other remedies made from herbal ingredients to ease what ails them.
This issue looks at two community efforts—the Mendocino County Food Guide and the North Coast KelpFest!—that are caring for important local resources. The food guide lets you know what your farmers are growing and where you can buy it (p15), increasing revenue for local farms and improving our health and food security in the process. The kelp festival (p39) educates folks around the devastated bull kelp forests off of our coast, as well as the different efforts to restore them. If you’ve never tasted purple urchin, or if you want an update on current research and restoration results, or even if you just want to dress up like a sea creature in a parade, this event is for you!
All of us at Word of Mouth take great pride in sharing these stories. To know about the work and care people pour into our food system—from growing the food to making something delicious with it before serving it to you on a plate—is to recognize its value. By connecting our readers to the restaurant down the street, the farmer across town, or the herbalist around the corner, we are strengthening each other. My apocalypse plan is to weave my own gifts into this vibrant tapestry of generosity.
Holly Madrigal
Co-Publisher & Managing Editor
Photo by Alecsander Alves courtesy of Unsplash.
Publisher's Note
By Torrey Douglass
The young folk have a saying—“touch grass.” It’s usually deployed towards someone who is perceived to be too online and out of touch with reality that exists beyond screens. Scolding tone aside, the advice is sound, though I would replace grass with dirt. When my mind becomes crowded with headlines created by people with big microphones and little sense, going out into the garden and breaking off a sugar snap pea to chew on while I check on the tomato plants reboots my outlook. The warm sun, the smell of damp earth, the sweet crunch of the pea—it’s a good reality to come back to.
In Mendocino County, our particular reality is collectively created by all sorts of different people, some of whom have come a great distance to make their home here (and many of us come from descendants who themselves came a long way to be here). These global transplants bring their ideas, their energy, and their effort, all informed by their cultures of origin.
In this issue, we share the story of Terra Sávia, a Hopland winery created by a Dominican and Swiss German couple that employs an Argentinian wine maker to produce two distinct lines of organic wine (p37). A bit to the north, Ukiah native Bailee and her Argentinian husband Peter have opened an empanada food window on Clara Street, where they sell savory pockets of spiced deliciousness (p11). The popular Italian restaurant, Luna Trattoria, was started by Italian Massimo Melani and his wife, American Marissa Rey, in 2014 (p8). Immigrants and their good work (and good food and wine!) are all around us.
Also in this issue is the story of Molino Campo Noble, the first tortillería in Japan (p26), started by Mexican national Geovanni Beristain and his Japanese partner, Reiko Matsumoto. Closer to home, Mexican immigrants in Mendocino County identified needs within their community and responded by creating Nuestra Alianza de Willits (p39), a nonprofit that provides 14 different programs to serve local Latinos.
Concepts can be imported too, and used to inform, improve, and uplift. Wild Hare Farm, of both Willits and Fort Bragg, use a Korean natural farming method called JADAM to cheaply and organically grow clean, nutrient-rich herbs, fruit, and vegetables (p23). Syd’s Tempeh, based in Fort Bragg, was inspired by the Indonesian tempeh movement to create plant-based burgers with local quinoa and other ingredients (p43).
Just like monoculture is a bad idea in agriculture, it doesn’t do us any favors sociologically, either. A diversity of plants on a farm brings balance, longevity, and resilience. The same can be said of society at large. I no more want all my neighbors to be like me than I want every restaurant to serve up the same menu. If you find yourself worked up about any group of people—and I mean any group of people—trace where you got your information about them. Then go and meet a few of those folks in real life. I guarantee they will be different than you expected. And when you’re done, touch dirt—and, ideally, grow something in it.
Torrey Douglass
Co-Publisher & Art Director
Photo by Phil Hearing courtesy of Unsplash.
Publisher's Note
by Torrey Douglass
The science fiction writer, Octavia Butler, is buried in a Pasadena graveyard under a gravestone displaying her quote, “The only lasting truth is Change.” Her words echo those of the Ancient Greek philosopher, Heraclitus, who famously declared “There is nothing permanent except change.” And I have to agree. It seems like as soon as I begin to move fluidly through life’s dance the tempo shifts, and I am, again, stumbling over my feet. Maybe the trick is to learn to stumble with grace and humor, and to forgive each other for trodden toes even as we seek balance.
Just like everywhere else, Mendocino County sees its fair share of change, and sometimes those changes paradoxically preserve what we value. In this issue you’ll find stories about local businesses under new leadership, like Roundman’s Smokehouse (p18). As of 2021, this popular butcher shop in Fort Bragg is continuing its legacy of high quality meat processing under Steve Rasmussen and Greg Braden. Wickson Restaurant at The Madrones in Philo (p42) is now in the capable hands of local girl Claudia Almeida, making mouth-watering pinsas (a lighter but equally delicious cousin of pizza), among other wood-fired dishes and handmade pasta. Over in Hopland, Topel Winery was purchased by Roger Peng in 2018 and renamed Alta Orsa to evoke both the rugged mountainside location of its vineyard and the team’s commitment to craftsmanship (p37). This small winery is currently producing and sourcing sustainably farmed fruit for all of its wines, including what one wine industry friend claims to be “the best cabernet in Mendocino County.”
It’s important to remember that, even as we are affected by change, we can be agents of it as well. Researchers at the Steinhart Aquarium are working on a sea star breeding program (p15) to restore this essential species that has largely been eradicated in the underwater wilds off our coast. Today’s economic challeges have resulted in a spike in pet surrenders to local animal shelters, prompting the Humane Society of Sonoma—with the help of Anderson Valley-raised Celestino Jimenez—to start the Community Action Team (or C.A.T.) program with his work colleague, Jorge Delgado (p39). The program integrates pet food donations into existing food banks so pets can remain in the homes where they are loved.
That quote on Octavia Butler’s gravestone begins with the words, “All that you touch, you change. All that you change, changes you.” We are not powerless. Take a break from the dance floor from time to time if you need to—particularly if the current song is not your jam. But the dance floor is where life happens, it’s where your friends and neighbors are. You might not always pick the track, but you can always pick your moves. So once you’ve caught your breath, step back into the fray, choose your partners wisely, listen for the beat, and boogie down with whatever choreography is most true to you.
Torrey Douglass
Co-Publisher & Art Director
Publisher’s Note
The first step in trying something new is a little kernel of interest—a persistent tug on your thoughts, a spark of inspiration that makes you want to drop everything else and delve into a topic that’s captured your imagination. It’s like following a tempting scent through a warren of streets and alleys in search of the bakery creating it. The itch to hunt down the source is hard to resist.
I get that feeling when I’m learning about birds, wood working, and yes, local food. The anticipation of exploring a new subject or starting a new project evokes a giddy kind of joy, perhaps because stepping into the unknown requires some vulnerability, or maybe because it can include adventure, play, and creativity.
Perhaps it’s the crisp snap in the air or the understanding that there’s a dwindling number of months left in the year, but fall is the time when that inspiration can easily turn into action. Curiosity combined with initiative can transform a fleeting interest into action and next steps. This is what happened to Jesse Stenberg, who not only began baking his own unique style of long-fermented breads, but took the time to study and perfect his skills before opening Hard Head Bread (p13) in Fort Bragg.
Learning is a critical component when embarking on a new project. Fall is the season when students return to the classroom, ideally hungry for the challenge of absorbing fresh knowledge. It was a different hunger—one of a growing young person who loves food!—that led Mendocino High School student Phannarai to move out of their comfort zone and into the culinary classroom (p9). Over in Anderson Valley, high school seniors Sammy and Mariana embarked on their own culinary adventures through a pair of internships at The Boonville Hotel and Offspring (p39).
Of course, you don’t have to be a student to embrace learning. Sarah Wuethrich of Maggy Hawk Wines considers her winemaking career to be a “lifelong learning process,” leading her to explore new farming methods to increase the sustainability of the vineyards (p36). And Rosemary Campiformio jumped into the unknown the day the St. Orres chef walked out (p6). Entirely self-taught, Rosemary took over the kitchen and remains the executive chef to this day—a lucky thing for anyone with functioning tastebuds fortunate enough to dine there!
As our days grow cooler and shorter, I’d be interested to know what kernels of interest are pulling at your attention. Perhaps you want to take advantage of composting recommendations from master gardener Matt Drewno and get serious about building your own soil (p30). Or keep it simple and just try a new recipe, like a seasonally appropriate Apple Crisp from farmer Darshawn Mayginnes of Shamaz Farm (p16), who grows fruit with his daughter Ambrosia. We have gathered a bounty of articles that will pique your interest and entice you to learn more. Let’s roll up our sleeves, embrace this season, and follow where our curiosity leads us.
Holly Madrigal
Co-Publisher & Managing Editor
Publisher’s Note
I’m not going to lie—some issues of this magazine come together more gracefully than others. This one was a toughie, and it’s entirely my fault. I made the classic self-employed mistake of saying yes to too much, resulting in becoming buried in an avalanche of competing deadlines. But what’s so bad about deadlines? As Douglas Adams said, “I love deadlines. I love the whooshing noise they make as they go by.” Let’s just say: there’s been a lot of whooshing.
Thankfully, this issue is as strong as ever, thanks to the rest of the Word of Mouth team, our fantastic contributors, and, of course, our much-appreciated advertisers who are essential to our operations. And perhaps it’s because restoring equilibrium to my life is an overriding goal at the moment, but the idea of balance seems to loom large in this issue. Felix and Yiping of Cocina Picante (p17) carefully balance flavors to create their fresh and zing-y selection of salsas, while the Redwood Coast Senior Center (p9), works hard to offer local seniors healthy meals, socializing opportunities, and activities necessary to live a balanced life. Whether it’s lunch Monday through Friday, gatherings for knitting or ping pong, exercise classes, or the Fourth Friday Food Truck all-ages community party, there is an abundance of fun to be had down at the Redwood Coast Senior Center.
Husch Vineyards (p36) created a healthier relationship with their land when they retired their disc tractor back in the 1970s, resulting in soils that hold moisture, resist erosion, and host an abundance of nutrients and beneficial critters—let’s hear it for earthworms! We can contribute to a more equitable economy when we purchase fish and shellfish in Fort Bragg’s Noyo Harbor (p13) from the very people who catch it, like Captain Dan, The Animal Fair, Princess Seafood, and others. This keeps more dollars in our community compared to buying seafood at a chain supermarket—and the flavor and quality are superior, as well. Balance is also important in ecological relationships. Californians have been depleting groundwater for years without restoring it, a trend that is thankfully changing (p30). The Ukiah Valley Basin Groundwater Sustainability Agency is addressing the issue on a community level, and installing a rain garden on your land can do so on a personal one. And ranchers in Marin are taking a more thoughtful approach to their relationship with the North American beaver, looking at it more as a potential partner rather than a pest (p39), since a healthy beaver population can increase the biological diversity and wildfire resistance of an ecosystem.
Most people I know are simply seeking a baseline of peace in their lives, and prioritizing balance is an essential part of that. Balance is necessary for excellent cooking, effective land management, and feeling grounded and fulfilled as we divide our time between work, rest, and play. Pushing out to the edge of one’s limits can be exciting and reveal unrealized capacity, but for sustained health and happiness—and far less whooshing—balance is the way to go.
Torrey Douglass
Co-Publisher & Art Director
Publisher’s Note
I consider Willits to be my hometown. It is known for hosting the longest-running rodeo in California, the Skunk Train’s inland station, and the final resting place of the legendary racehorse, Seabiscuit. It was a great place to grow up—the wilderness was never farther than a short walk from my back door, people were warm and welcoming, and I made friendships that continue to nourish me to this day. Willits is also home to local celebrity Edie Ceccarelli (née Recagno), who recently turned 116 years old.
Edie’s notoriety has come from her ascension to the status of oldest living person in the United States (second oldest on Earth), but in Willits she is also known for being the sharpest dressed lady in town. She shared with me once that what kept her young were her love of dancing (which she did well into her nineties) and a small glass of wine at dinner. While she has a quieter life nowadays in a care home, I can’t help but imagine all she has experienced in her lifetime: the invention of flight, the widespread use of cars, the creation of the internet, and revolutions in person-to-person communication as we know it. Right here in our community, we have this remarkable woman living quietly and somewhat under the radar.
Years ago, food organizer and current director of Mendocino County Fire Safe Council, Scott Cratty, made an observation that perfectly captures our magazine’s purpose: “Mendocino County is where your neighbor is doing the most amazing things that no one has ever heard of.” Our contributors love to bring attention to the incredible projects your neighbors are involved in. For example, this season we tell you about a collaboration of folks spearheading a seed-growing and -sharing initiative that will improve food security by developing seeds that thrive under existing conditions without excessive inputs of water and nutrients (p39). Another piece describes one gardener’s quest to populate her flower bed with poppies from all over the world to keep company with those orange gems—California poppies—that originally inhabited the zone (p15). Her explorations into the vast world of poppies brought a whole new mix of color and texture to her property.
This issue also shares the story of Noyo Harbor Inn’s Harbor View Bistro, whose mixologist has crafted a unique selection of bitters using local ingredients like lilac blossoms and black currant charred cedar (p37). What fun to learn how to enhance any beverage with components sourced from our surroundings! The Candy Cap mushroom bitters, in particular, are unique to our area. As the season brings more sun and warmth, gatherings can move outside again. Our center spread features some of our favorite caterers to help your event shine (p22). Celebrating outdoors is one of the ultimate pleasures of living here, and you can be truly present at your own event if you leave the cooking to the professionals.
It is such a joy to share insights into the fascinating pursuits of Mendocino County’s inspired and (at times) charmingly eccentric individuals. By sharing their stories we can support those that make this area such a wonderful place. Happy Birthday Edie, and may we all enjoy such rewarding longevity.
Holly Madrigal
Co-Publisher & Managing Editor
Publisher’s Note
Torrey Douglass
Co-Publisher & Art Director
An herbalist friend once pointed out how we can weather the change of seasons more gracefully if we mimic the behavior of plants. Spring is for letting creative ambitions out to play, then guarding and guiding new growth, while in summer you pare back what isn’t working in order to allow the strongest contenders to flourish. Then there’s the crescendo of effort in fall to deliver the harvest, followed by some well-earned partying. And after that?
After that … rest. This is the time of year when plants let go of what isn’t needed—parts that have served their purpose die back and fall away. The energy is pulled inward, down into the earth, where it can abide safely while winter dances upstairs with boisterous, cold feet. The green life force is not dead and gone, but sleeping. On quiet winter afternoons when I walk through the forest, I like to imagine I can feel the rumble of its snores through the soil.
But what do humans usually do this time of year? Make a hot drink and put up our feet by the fire? Hardly. We keep up the pace, ignoring the counsel of plants and opting to add on an extra bushel of demands—on top of our home responsibilities and 40+-hour work week—called The Holidays. And what’s the result? Our bodies revolt, undermining our determined productivity with sniffles and coughs. Friction shows up in interactions large and small, and even just within ourselves as we hit the inevitable roadblocks life brings.
I don’t really have an answer for the late-year hurry-and-hustle we all go through, but it does bring to mind a comment Father Greg Boyle made in an interview that has stuck with me, in which he recommended that people “Hold life lightly.” The bumps in the road are easier to endure when we are not gripping the wheel with blanched knuckles. Let’s give ourselves and each other a little grace, defaulting to the assumption that everyone is just doing the best they can with what they have and who they are in the moment.
This grace is on full display at The Restaurant of Mistaken Orders, a pop up project in Japan that is staffed entirely by people with dementia. It’s evident at the Parents & Friends garden, a program supporting adults with developmental disabilities, and also at Bee the Change Microfarm, where Susanna and Ian are creating the infrastructure and expanding their managerie to make their vision of a regenerative farm a reality. It’s sadly absent in the tangle of regulations that have brought legacy cannabis farmers to the brink, according to farmer and owner of The Bohemian Chemist, Jim Roberts. But it’s embraced by the wise, balanced approach Gowan now brings to winter at Fortunate Farm as she awaited the birth of her first child (now happily arrived, and all are well).
I wish all of you a peaceful and happy holiday season, and a grounded start to 2024. It’s an election year, and there are going to be a lot of feelings that come out of the swirling madness that ensues. But if we all give each other a little grace—and keep a dollop for ourselves—I trust we’ll get through it okay.
Torrey Douglass
Co-Publisher & Art Director
Publisher’s Note
Holly Madrigal
Co-Publisher & Managing Editor
One thing I appreciate about Mendocino County is our exceptional adaptability. When life gets challenging, we roll up our sleeves and figure it out. While chatting with friends and small business owners over coffee at a local cafe, the group swaps stories about how business is down this year. Naturally, these reflections provoke anxious concern, but they also inspire determination and creativity, grounded in the awareness that a rich life has less to do with what’s in your bank account and more to do with the people, places, and pursuits that occupy your time. And no matter what the economy is doing, here in Mendocino County, we have resourceful people, beautiful places, and interesting pursuits in abundance.
That resourcefulness allows us to solve problems and find joy by making the most of what we have on hand. Have too much zucchini? Make zucchini flour. Have a sweet tooth but detest corporate candy? Then stop by Sunshine’s Confections to relish an elevated version of your childhood favorites. Looking to add an unconventional crop to your garden? Julia Dakin’s work with landrace seeds (p 11) is remarkable. Her organization, Going to Seed, is developing vigorous seeds that are both locally specific and able to thrive in our changing climate with minimal interventions.
Redwood Forest Foundation has been in operation since 1997 and knows all about adaptability. The best practices they have developed are transforming our relationship to the local ecosystem of the north coast (p 29), eschewing extractive logging for a more community-centric style of timber management with forest stewardship at its heart. Big Mesa Farm (p 19) has done their fair share of adapting as well, moving from their former location in Bolinas—with a coastal climate and big-city access—to the hot weather and rural market conditions of inland Mendocino County. Yet with creativity, flexibility, and grit, they are making it work, continually tinkering with their approach to provide for their customers and live their values.
We at Word of Mouth also continue to grow and evolve. Our “new” co-publisher has been here all along. Torrey is the one who makes this magazine visually stunning while contributing thoughtful, investigative stories. Her advancement this spring to co-publisher acknowledges the position she has held for years. Along with our extremely talented editor, Dawn Emery Ballantine, and our rock star advertising director, Lisa Ludwigsen, we have a combined 84 years experience living and/or working in this beautiful county. I love this group of opinionated women and the particular alchemy of word wrangling and local pride that creates each issue. Our amazing contributors and advertisers complete the picture, keeping Word of Mouth exploring and sharing the stories of this place, in this time. So next time the financial news casts a pall on your thoughts, take heart and remember that Mendocino County is scrappy as hell. We make it work and have a good time doing it. Thank you for sharing in the fun.
Holly Madrigal
Co-Publisher & Managing Editor
Publisher’s Note
Torrey Douglass
Roughly a decade ago, I was at a local food event when Holly Madrigal approached me with an idea. As a self-employed web and graphic designer, I was used to folks sharing their entrepreneurial ambitions with me. These social conversations rarely led to actual work, so even as I listened, I had no expectation that Holly’s project would ever materialize on my desk.
Hence my surprise when Holly reached out a couple of years later to say that she was ready to launch a local food magazine for Mendocino County. Together we hashed out a logo, followed by the layout for the articles she’d collected. By early June of 2016, we held the first edition in our hands.
Take a moment and think back to what our world was like in 2016. No matter your politics, events of the past seven years have left you sometimes horrified and at other times elated. At no other period in my lifetime have long-held beliefs and assumed norms been so deeply challenged and transformed. The responsibilities of government, the nature of gender, the role of law enforcement, the integrity of cultural icons, the trustworthiness of information broadcast over airwaves and online, the resilience of supply chains, the emotional and cognitive impact of new technologies, the very safety of the air we breathe—whew! It’s been A LOT. Folks have either adopted new perspectives or doubled down on their convictions, but no one has been left unchanged.
Through it all, every season, the Word of Mouth team has done its best to assemble a collection of articles to inspire and illuminate. Our stories examine, in new and compelling ways, this thing that we all rely on—food—and the land that grows it. This remote corner of Northern California we call home is a special place, but that’s not always evident on the surface. We peek inside that little wine shop you always drive by, we introduce you to the family behind that cafe you love, and we let you know what new farmstand you should check out. We talk to fascinating people who are spending their time and talents solving our county’s problems—feeding the vulnerable, protecting us from wildfire, building community gardens, nurturing the flora and fauna (everything from kelp to pollinators to donkeys), and, of course, growing the ingredients that end up on our plates.
And this issue is no different. In the following pages you’ll learn about some great places to eat, like Stan’s Maple Cafe for breakfast, Good Bones Kitchen for dinner, and Boonville’s tiny ice cream spot, Paysanne, for dessert. We look at the challenges of farming in Mendocino County, what’s up with Ireland’s Hope Spots, and the joys of gardening with children. And we tip a hat to our very first issue, returning to the original “Ripe Now” subject, the beloved strawberry.
There’s a pop-science assertion that claims that the cells in our body renew every seven years. It’s not true—different cells renew at different rates—but I like the idea that we become a whole new person for each seven year cycle of our lives. Today’s Word of Mouth is different from the 2016 version and will be different again in 2030. But whatever comes, we will keep sharing stories about this quirky and complex county we inhabit—and just how delicious and beautiful it can be.
With Gratitude,
Torrey Douglass
Co-Publisher* & Art Director
*Holly has graciously agreed to share the role of publisher with me as we move into our next chapter, so I’ll be writing the publisher’s note sometimes. Thank you, Holly!
Weathering Life's Storms
This spring, a forty-foot wave scaled the cliffs at the Point Cabrillo Light Station, busted open the rear doors, and flooded the interior with a two-foot surge of stormy sea. Lighthouses are known for perching above the rocky cliffs, weathering storms, and getting bathed in salt spray, the ceaseless swell below a constant presence. But I imagine it still came as a surprise when a rogue wave burst in, moving the furniture and swamping the gift shop.
This spring has brought upheaval into my own life. The passing of my stepmother has altered personal roles and shifted the make-up of our family. Even as the process of aging and illness is unsurprising, like the storm outside the lighthouse, her passing has sent a wave barreling through. My heart is drenched, and despite the fact that this loss was not unexpected, it will take a moment to adjust to this new perspective and set the furniture back to rights.
Kristina Brown came into my life when I was eight. A brilliant woman, she built a career in the early days of computer development, which was and remains a very male-dominated field. Her spirit shone when she was expressing her artistic self through textile arts—lace, quilts, clothing, and more. The beautiful image by a local artist inside the front cover of this issue reminds me of Kris. She will be missed by many.
As a relatively new resident of the coast settled in my house by the sea, I am becoming acclimated to the roar of the waves. It’s a constant reminder that change continues. The push and pull of the tides and the occasional storm stirs everything up. Our coast looks different this spring. On the headlands, powerful waves have peeled back the iceplant from the sand cliffs. As the days become longer and the gaps in the (much needed) rain lengthen, it’s a time to welcome the sun. More light is returning and the sunset thankfully shifts a little later every day.
In the spirit of weathering life’s storms with grace, and maybe even some joy, the team at Word of Mouth have put together a glorious issue for you. Chef Janelle Weaver waded into unfamiliar waters when she took on the challenge of creating plant-based cheeses worthy of fine dining (p 14). Learn about the movement to let go of the custom of spring mowing in order to provide forage for vulnerable pollinators during their lean months (p 33). Farmer Gowan Batist is exploring new dimensions to a previous adventure—ten years ago she and a friend decided to eat locally for a year, and now Gowan is doing it again to see what has shifted in the past decade (p 36). And funding provided by the passage of Measure P supports positive change as well, allowing the Mendocino County Fire Safe Council to help landowners and neighbors transform homes, land, and neighborhoods so they can endure California’s inevitable wildfires with more resilience (p 31).
The lighthouse at Point Cabrillo will welcome visitors this spring, and if you stop by, take a peek over the cliffs and marvel at the size and force of that wave. We never know what the future may hold, but for now, this structure continues to shine its light, a bright beacon to all.
Warmly,
Holly Madrigal, Publisher
Publisher's Note
One of the joys of publishing this magazine is being introduced to the sheer volume of items made and crafted in Mendocino County. It’s a secret peek into a world of expert artisans, craftspeople, and creators. In this issue alone we discover olives, cookies, woven rugs, mushroom dyes, goat cheese, and sparkling wine. Our team of contributors and I have doors opened to us to see first-hand this wealth of creativity and bounty. I sometimes hear the cynical refrain that “no one knows how to make things anymore.” Well I disagree, and we have the stories to prove it.
The craftsmanship that we describe in our pages is often learned over decades. Jennie Henderson’s expertise in weaving began in the 1970s and spanned several countries and cultures (p 16). She possesses a key quality I have noticed among our local craftspeople—a creative fire that is undoused by any obstacle, sustaining them through patient and determined problem-solving until their work is complete. When Miriam Rice (p 33) began dyeing fabric with mushrooms foraged in the forests of Mendocino, she was scratching a creative itch. What began as a fun exploration of pigment led to a groundbreaking text on the practice that has inspired other craftspeople across the globe.
Yvonne and Jurg of Olivino crush and press their own olive oil to achieve a freshness of taste derived from the rolling stones of a cold press (p 5). Their facility is available for other olive growers as well, allowing a community of farmers to produce more of this treasured elixir. Ana and Gil Cox (p 23) have generously cared for both their goat herd and the land that sustains it for more than 40 years, resulting in delectable goat cheese that’s gentle on the planet.
I am continually inspired by the creative work of my friends and neighbors. This holiday season, I challenge you to support these local artisans and maybe even to indulge your own creative side. Perhaps this year is the time to share the gift of homemade jam or blackberry cordial. I am partial to oranges ringed with cloves hung on an evergreen tree. Perhaps you could try your hand at the sourdough trend. And who knows? Someday that playful experiment might turn into a hobby that turns into something more. You might even end up in our pages, joining the passionate, unique makers we at Word of Mouth love to discover and share with you.
Warmly,
Holly Madrigal
Publisher
Publisher's Note
A number of my friends are asking the reasonable question, “Should we stay and fight for the values we hold, or should we move our families to someplace safer, with more freedom?” It’s an understandable query and one that I think about, too. The Supreme Court is now an agent of chaos, the federal government lacks the conviction to address climate change, and gun violence plagues our communities with numbing regularity. It’s a lot to confront both individually and together.
Throughout my life, I have cultivated and grown a community in Mendocino County. I lent my efforts to the localization movement, attending seemingly endless meetings to identify the needs of our local food system, and learned how we could be more resilient and self-sufficient. With like-minded neighbors, we explored what actions we could take locally to reduce our carbon footprint. We strengthened relationships and the community fabric, potluck by potluck. I’ve made my decision and it is to stay, to keep building on the strong foundation here. This issue is filled with stories of people doing just that, people who recognize, as the cover states, that “wherever we’re going, we’re going together.”
The Mendocino Cannabis Alliance (p 11) is one inspiring example. Our state is in danger of killing the golden goose as draconian regulations combined with a corporate-funded oversupply of product have compounded the difficulties faced by small farmers. Yet by joining forces on a shared retail platform and building on collective strengths, this organization helps cannabis farmers reach new markets and build a customer base that can sustain them into the future.
This interconnectedness is also reflected at Meadow Farm (p 23), a property near Fort Bragg, which exists as a land trust and intentional community. Residents and volunteers are literally digging in to grow fresh vegetables for themselves and the local food bank, as well as investing in emergency preparedness to build resilience. In a similar vein, Farmer Gowan Batist (p 38) ruminates on the intricate web of predator, prey, and animal caretaker, and how to keep the ecosystem we share in balance. And fish catchers and other local businesses come together monthly for a community market at Noyo Harbor (p 41) to sell directly to locals.
This “stronger together” concept is metaphorically captured by artist and plant expert Saoirse Byrne, who shares her explorations of the craft of cordage (p 31), twisting fabrics and plant fibers to form lengths of twine or rope that are exponentially stronger than their individual parts. By sharing these tales of collaboration and community interconnectedness in the face of our challenges, we can learn how to survive and thrive together. We may envy the healthcare system, climate action, or government mettle of faraway lands, but I celebrate those who are digging in, building relationships, and fighting the good fight here. I’ll be right alongside you.
Warmly,
Holly Madrigal
Publisher
In the Summer 2022 issue, the image of Elyse and David Hopps, owners of Izakaya Gama, should have been attributed to Caroline Ducato. Our apologies, Caroline.
Publisher's Note
There is a lot about the future that is unknown and a bit scary. We are all dealing with the uncertainty of climate change, political upheaval, and personal and family health issues. These worries swing the future into question. But even amidst emotional fears and apprehension, there are always those who are dreaming about new ways to do things.
This past November we lost farming elder, Stephen Decater of Live Power Farm, who along with his wife, Gloria, placed their farm in one of the first agricultural preservation easements so that future generations may also use the land to grow food. In Stephen’s absence, Gloria and her family will guide the farm into a new chapter, into the unknown.
Another loss occurred just this past March with the passing of Sally Schmitt, co-founder of the French Laundry and largely unsung torchbearer within the world of California cuisine. Her granddaughter, Polly, reflects on Sally’s legacy (p 19), and how her unique style of leadership in the kitchen and in the family inspired subsequent generations to pursue their own creative callings with discipline and confidence.
Filigreen Farm is not only growing biodynamic blueberries and so much more, but doing so on land that is now preserved into perpetuity. The Anderson Valley Land Trust (p 41) is an organization which is actively planning for what’s ahead. They are hosting a symposium to create a shared vision for homes, jobs, and livelihood for the generations still to come.
There are so many creative ways to envision a future where we trust and rely on each other more. When we plan a future that involves strengthening our community ties and therefore our local resilience, we all benefit. I get inspired when I hear about how the folks at Fortunate Farm (p 38) are experimenting with radical trust, allowing their self-serve “honor stand” to run itself while staff work the fields and grow the food. I got a kick out of learning how educator and business owner Jane Wolfe (p 35) has leveraged her family’s po’ boy shop in New Orleans to increase literacy, and how former media executive Ron King began a new life chapter by starting a donkey rescue nonprofit (p 11) outside of Hopland! The combination of compassion and creativity gives me hope.
So while I may have my moments of concern about what is out beyond the horizon, I am equally buoyed and inspired by the creative dream being manifested by these visionaries. They are literally crafting a new way of imagining the future.
Warmly,
Holly Madrigal,
Publisher
Seeking Serenity
Grant me the serenity to accept the things I cannot change, the courage to change the things I can, and the wisdom to know the difference. These lines from the Serenity Prayer have been a mantra for me over these past months. So many changes are afoot, and so much is out of our control.
In our last issue, some readers may have noticed a different feel to our magazine, a different paper sheen from our usual matte deliciousness. This was not by choice, but rather due to the global paper shortages preventing us from acquiring our usual stock. It became not a choice of what paper we would prefer, but rather a choice between that or nothing at all. A small change in the scheme of things, but a large shift when it comes to printing a magazine. Our particular design and quality standards are a big part of what makes Word of Mouth great, and losing our paper choices stung a little. Clearly, more and more of what is required of us is flexibility and a little grace.
As we delve further into 2022 (I’m still in awe of that date), additional changes are around the corner. Rising printing costs motivated us to find a new printer, as we want to maintain our quality while keeping ad prices steady. Now in our sixth year of publication, we are looking closely at our approach to see how we can include new people and fresh ideas. As part of our commitment to connect readers to the food and farms of this place, Farmer Gowan Batist is adding her voice, garnered from years of working in the fields and with her sheep. Her singular writing style will not be new to those who follow Gowan on social media, and we hope this column will introduce her to more readers.
This issue also looks at opportunities to rethink the standard approach and adjust it to make things better. The Blue Zones organization wants to make Mendocino County healthier through research-based recommendations. Travis Foote of Strictly Vineyards encourages his clients to forgo the dangerous yet common glyphosate pesticide in his clients’ vineyards. And Lisa Ludwigsen profiles the impressive women working in Mendocino County agriculture, and the changes this fresh generation brings to their work.
This fresh spring season welcomes in more light, with its promise of new adventures. The only constant is change and springtime has it in spades. I’m ready to stand in the sun and stretch, the better to prepare for flexibility and practice releasing my imaginary hold on what lies ahead.
Warmly,
Holly Madrigal
Publisher
We Could All Use a Little Hygge
Winter is a favorite season of mine on the Mendocino Coast. Crisp, cool days welcome us outside for a beach campfire, or, if we are fortunate to get that much-needed rain, we can relax inside with blankets, board games, and cozy cups of coffee, tea, or cocoa. A friend recently introduced me to the idea of “hygge”—the Nordic concept of coziness and embracing the moment, of prioritizing togetherness and family. Helen Russell, author of Year of Living Danishly, defines it as the “complete absence of anything annoying or emotionally overwhelming.” That is what I’m craving this season.
The previous year has revealed so much about our lives, showing in stark relief the balance (or lack thereof) between work and home. America is experiencing a “retirement tsunami” and a “great resignation,” not to mention a “great reshuffling.” People have reevaluated their priorities, often choosing to change careers, move households, or start something new. I can’t tell you how many of my friends are experiencing serious burnout and overwhelm. If I was queen, I would reduce “full-time work” to 30 hours a week with 3-day weekends. It’s time for the cultural pendulum to swing away from the worship of overwork and stress as a status symbol. It’s time for more hygge.
To bring a little hygge into your life, head to the website for Full Circle Wool (p 29) for some cozy wool socks, or curl up with a good book and a cup of our spiced hot cocoa for grown-ups (p 36). Go old school and pick up an album and a pizza pie from Flying Dog Wood Fired Pizza and Vinyl (p 42), then take the night off from cooking to delve into your pie while you are carried away by the rich, multi-layered tones that only vinyl can offer. (They sell turntables, too, in case you’re in need.)
Keeping things simple is key to hygge, and with global supply chains on the fritz, we think this is the perfect year to simplify for the holidays. We have a bounty of local products that require next to no long-distance travel. You can select some exquisite bottles from Handley Cellars, founded by pioneering winemaker, Milla Handley (p 11), or from Saracina, expertly crafted by their winemaker, Alex MacGregor (p 25). Or prepare a gift of preserved lemons (p 5) or a tantalizing jar of sumac “spice” (p 21) that will brighten any kitchen in the winter months to come.
Simplification, slowing down, and gratitude are lifelong practices. Appreciation of the present moment and today’s abundance is a meditation. We here at Word of Mouth hope this issue fills your cup. So snuggle in, take a sip of whatever gives you comfort, and enjoy our offerings in this issue. May the holidays land gently for us all.
Warmly,
Holly Madrigal
Publisher
Trying New Things and Taking Our Time
As our communities open up, they’ve experienced a flood of events, celebrations, weddings, and long-postponed travel. As much as I relish this new found freedom, the busy cafés and bustling sidewalks, it also seems necessary to venture out of our snail shells slowly, protecting our soft centers. Rules of how to function publicly have changed repeatedly in the last 18 months, a trend that will continue for a while yet as health risks spike and recede, and recommendations and restrictions follow suit. It seems like we continually need to re-learn how to interact. It is almost as if, after a long hibernation, we went out and sat in the sun, soaking up all those rays, only noticing that once we returned inside that our skin was tender and pink. Let’s all remember our sunscreen and venture out carefully.
Nature metaphors aside, it’s clear that, as individuals, we need to stay flexible. In this issue, we explore businesses which have turned to adaptation as a survival strategy. Trillium Café has remained busy in the midst of pandemic challenges by embracing their stunning garden dining space, providing excellent food while safely serving more diners than ever. Michael Foley and Sara Grusky are discovering what it means to be local legacy farmers in the midst of a drought. How do they continue their dream of producing exceptional vegetables and goods when the lifeblood of any agricultural venture is restricted? What does farming in the age of climate change look like? Focusing on that most precious resource—water—we look to local hydrologist, Anna Birkas, to explore greywater and other water conservation measures you can use on your property.
The pandemic has shown us what is truly valuable. Even as we yearn to leave that experience behind us, it has been interesting to see what has been transformed. The shut-down unveiled what was working—and what was not. It revealed and condensed the most precious parts of our lives. I have multiple friends who, as a result, are considering changing careers, moving to new locales, or re-defining relationships. Many of these changes are a direct result of the pandemic-inspired process of focusing on what is really important—loved ones, livelihood, shelter, and water. Little by little, we are re-learning how we do this living life stuff, venturing out of our shells and exploring what truly works for us.
Fall, typically a time of abundance, provides a perfect opportunity to put into practice attitudes and actions that reflect our newly clarified values. There is a whole lot of vulnerability in trying new things, revising how we interact. But if we’ve learned anything in the past year and a half, we know that we will figure this out as we go, even if it is at a snail’s pace.
Holly Madrigal, Publisher
Thank you, Cozette!
This issue we’ve been lucky to have help from an intern. The talented and capable Cozette Ellis curated and designed the art page; researched, wrote, and designed the center spread; and curated and wrote the Ripe Now column. Cozette is a senior at UC Davis studying design. She grew up in Boonville and has a passion for community-centric design and illustration. Cozette is director for the 2022 Whole Earth Festival, a community celebration of art, music, and dance, that occurs every Mother’s Day weekend in Davis, California.
Publisher's Note
“More dance parties,” a friend said to me sagely as we tentatively gathered, battling the physical awkwardness of hanging out with people again. And I agree. After more than a year of being sequestered in our homes and social bubbles, it does feel like there is hope on the horizon. It’s the kind of promise summertime always holds, but this season it feels different, accentuated, turned up to 11. More dance parties—yes! But also more outside, more barbeques, more beach days, more friends, more family, and more genuine celebration. After all, we’ve made it through a global pandemic, and that’s reason enough to let loose.
This summer I have more appreciation for the things we used to take for granted, a sentiment I hear echoed everywhere I go. The pandemic forced us to do more with less, and many of our neighbors drew on impressive reserves of creativity and determination. The Plowshares community kitchen and garden has not only survived the pandemic, but has also expanded their meals and services to assist even more people (p 11). The Fort Bragg treasure Piaci Pub & Pizzeria (p 7) has spilled out of its tiny restaurant space onto the parking lot, turning up the heat with live music and some of the best pizza around. (This outdoor space may be the perfect place for one of those dance parties …)
We are also sharing the stories of those who are doing things differently. A self-serve farm box has taken the place of a traditional roadside farmstand at Good Things Farm (p 33), using an honor system that has created both access to the farm’s bounty but also a fierce loyalty from the neighborhood. And we highlight people who are accomplishing crazy things! On the edge of the West Coast, a visionary fellow is growing avocados in Humboldt County (p 45). Shelter Cove, where this farmer lives, is certainly worth a summertime visit.
Like me, you may want to drink up all those experiences you had to forgo last summer. Now is the time to venture out and visit that winery you have always wanted to visit, like Weatherborne in Anderson Valley (p 25). Or try your hand at catching dinner on the high seas with Anchor Charter Boats (p 35). There is no end to the potential experiences, and the key is to relish them. Let us appreciate the friends and the moments this season will bring. Let’s kick off our shoes and wiggle our toes in the grass (or the sand). And we absolutely need more dance parties.
Holly Madrigal, Publisher
A Time of Reimagining
“I never thought that I’d be …” is a phrase I have heard a lot lately. “I never thought I’d be serving all our customers entirely outdoors.” “I never thought I’d be teaching my kids from home while I juggle work.” “I never thought I’d be so excited about my mom getting a vaccine shot.” It seems the unforeseen and unimagined has become commonplace and the reinvention and reimagining of our circumstances has become the norm. Will this new way of doing things work? Will our creativity be rewarded? It’s like a caterpillar breaking out of its cocoon, transformed, wings crinkly and tentative, ready to take to the skies.
Spring encapsulates this combination of possibility and unpredictability. It’s an annual constant, yet the act of new growth is always exciting while also slightly uncomfortable. The stories in this issue capture both the uncertainty and the hope of our moment. Places like Drop In Donut saw a need in Fort Bragg for delicious sweet treats, and their bakery is thriving despite starting in the midst of a global pandemic. The Pie Ranch in Cazadero found themselves reinventing an entire farm program once they were no longer allowed to have guests, and they continue to work toward a more healthy and just food system despite enduring a devastating wildfire and the myriad challenges brought on by COVID. Chef Janelle Weaver of the Bewildered Pig takes a moment to reflect on the meaning of local, and writer Anna Levy looks at the 100+ year history of Emandal Farm and the creativity and flexibility that keeps them thriving. The challenges of the past year are significant, but they force us to adapt, adjust, and reimagine as we move forward.
Also in this issue, we catch up with local culinary legend, Margaret Fox, to hear about how Harvest Market has revamped their well known fresh food offerings into a bountiful array of pre-made meals to carry out. We hear from Cornelia Reynolds, gardener and Chair of Fort Bragg Bee City USA, who has been rehabilitating a piece of land to welcome and encourage native pollinators. And we look at Pennyroyal Farm’s Laychee, their first cheese of the spring season, with a fresh flavor perfect for a spring celebration cheesecake.
My heart sings as these days grow longer. Catching the sunset is a personal daily goal, and I love that this can now be closer to 6:00 than 4:00 in the afternoon. As springtime unfurls, remember that we are in a time of creativity and dreaming, but also for getting our hands dirty. It’s time to work the soil to allow for new growth. Perhaps I’ll plant some local milkweed seeds to welcome the butterflies of spring.
Holly Madrigal, Publisher
Embarking on Healing
Healing is not easy. It hurts, it’s hard, and it tests our resolve to keep going. But we are strong, we can do hard things, and the alternative—remaining stuck, sick, and sundered—is unacceptable. So heal we must, in our nation, in our communities, and in our bodies.
“We are not as divided as our politics suggest” is a favorite Obama quote of mine. And I believe that, truly. When it comes down to it, we are all just people—neighbors, family, friends—with similar hopes and needs. Those who want to weaken us attempt it through exploiting our differences. But when the chips are down, our communities and connections are what keep us strong.
And sticking together through tough times has never been more important. The folks of Mendocino County have dug deep to adapt and move forward with new ways of doing our work and living our lives, inspiring me with a fresh vision of the future. Restaurants have embraced the outdoors, co-opting adjacent gardens, parking lots, and sidewalks. (I would love to see this trend continue, even once we can be indoors again.) Café Beaujolais, a local favorite dining spot, has expanded their “Brickery”, where you can enjoy a slice of delicious brick oven pizza using Wavelength Farm produce procured at their adjacent farm stand. Friend and local farmer, Michael Foley, explains the difficult but worthy quest to break the farmer’s reliance on plastic. The Botanical Bus in Sonoma County has launched their mobile herbal medical clinic as well as a number of new programs to meet the needs of the local Latinx community of farmworkers.
As we move through winter, we will all find new ways of togetherness and celebration, while keeping everyone safe. Spread the season’s joy by supporting our local artisans, businesses, and restaurants when you can. Consider, for instance, a gift of an unusual wine from the Disco Ranch, culinary items from the Boonville Collective, or one of the many locally produced treasures one can find at the Yorkville Market.
We are coming up on one year of this pandemic—one year of lost or adjusted birthdays, one year of missed proms, anniversaries, weddings, and adventures. But we have been given the opportunity to redefine and enrich the shared moments we have, being ever more aware that life is precious and our time here is short. Togetherness is important, and community is vital. Let’s do our best to make the most of both. As we begin the long healing process, it may be uncomfortable at times. But my heart is full, and the inspiration I get from this wonderful county keeps me going.
Holly Madrigal, Publisher
A Little Light During Stressful Times
I do not know if I have ever experienced a time more steeped in uncertainty. Simple acts of personal and professional planning seem foolhardy, almost daring cosmic destruction. As the months of this global pandemic progress, and as our society reckons with its failure to live up to its foundational notions of equality, I have found solace in refocusing on what I value. Friendships—maintained both virtually and gathered in backyard gardens, spaced six feet apart—have allowed me to maintain some form of sanity. Growing food, even if just a small trellis of peas or my micro patch of raspberries, brings a sense of accomplishment and security. Appreciation of beauty, both of what is right outside my door and the rare foray into the Lost Coast or along the Eel River, soothes my frayed nerves. I remain constantly on the hunt for effervescent moments of joy.
We never know what the future holds, but that feels especially true now. Labor shortages due to the pandemic may have real effects on California’s harvest. Autumn is typically a time of bounty, so we’ve included an overview of food preservation methods to help you make that harvest last (p 19). The security and satisfaction of a full pantry can help put anxious minds at ease.
In stressful times like these, we want to shine a light on the good news stories happening around us. The health crisis has inspired a wonderful community collaboration to revitalize the Harrah Senior Center Garden (p 11), bringing together the Gardens Project, the Willits Garden Club, and 100 Women Strong. As a result, the community garden is producing again, providing increased food security and helping community members combat the loneliness so prevalent in this moment.
I’m inspired by the Mendocino County food pioneers who continue to pursue their various passions. A Willits couple is delving into the cultivation of coveted black truffles (p 4), while homesteader and primitive skills expert Steven Edholm has defied accepted dogma for orchardists by breeding apples from seed (p 13). These stories of commitment and ingenuity never fail to make me want to roll up my sleeves and try something new.
Jumping into a new project can help refocus our minds away from the world’s woes. But we can’t check out altogether. Included in our current reality of health crisis and economic upset is our upcoming election, despite the fact that it seems so abstract at times. This was always going to be a consequential election, but the stakes have been raised even higher because of the reawakened urgency around the pursuit of racial justice, the imperative to move toward environmental sustainability, and our hunger for any sort of leadership to guide us through the challenges brought on by the global pandemic. Please do your part. Educate, organize, and support the candidates that embody your values, and vote on November 3rd.
Wishing everyone a beautiful and bountiful Fall,
Holly Madrigal, Publisher
Summer 2020 Publisher's Note
As we were planning for this issue a few short months ago B.Q. (Before Quarantine), my mind was filled with thoughts of imminent warm weather and the coming election. At the time, it seemed a good theme would be “digging in, persistence, and resiliency.” Little did I know how relevant that theme would become.
None of us could have guessed that the world as we knew it would be plunged into uncertainty. As COVID-19 spreads through our nation, we have entirely upended our economy as we shelter in place. The seismic economic shifts feel seriously foreboding. As we here at Word of Mouth try to navigate this tumult, we simply do not know if the restaurants we love will be able to re-open, if the farms will financially survive, if the tasting rooms and inns will again welcome visitors to our gorgeous county. How many of our local businesses will still be here when the dust settles?
Years ago, long before the birth of this publication, I spent a summer doing various homesteading activities with our family friends, the Bradfords. In an effort to learn new skills and prepare for the impacts of climate change, we tried our hand at many things including cheese-making, apple cider pressing, and hyper-local cooking using the Brookside School Farm CSA. What I remember about that summer was not the struggle and effort to master these skills to become more “self-sufficient.” Rather, I have vivid memories of the long lazy hours in easy conversation while we processed cheese curds, and the laughter we shared sitting in our friend’s apple orchard after a hard morning’s harvest. When I started Word of Mouth, I realized that I wanted more of that—more connection, more community, and all of it full of deliciousness. More of what life is supposed to be.
Returning to our core beliefs as a publication, we know that we are here to celebrate our community. Our role is to highlight the innovation and determination that permeates this place we call home, a goal that remains unchanged during this pandemic. Like the native bees, we pollinate Mendocino County by sharing the tidbits overheard at the farmers market. Did you know someone has a herd of fire prevention goats (p 13), or that Victory Gardens are popping up on the coast (p 17)? We sing from the rooftops when a new generation of farmers embraces the work of John Jeavons, who revolutionized backyard gardening (p 10). And we represent our community to a larger audience when we send this magazine out into the wider world.
We do not know what the future will hold, but we know that our work here at Word of Mouth is more important than ever. This pandemic has revealed, like the ocean’s retreat before a tsunami, the frailty of our supply chains, the importance of our mental health, and the failures of our healthcare systems. Mendocino County has made great strides in cultivating our local food infrastructure. Now is the time for all of us to dig in and participate in making this community stronger and more resilient. We can all do our part to ensure that, as the memory of this experience fades, we emerge stronger and better prepared, but most importantly, grateful for all that we hold dear.
Holly Madrigal, Publisher
Spring 2020 Publisher's Note
“So fresh and so clean,” says the hook of the song embedded in my head. The catchy refrain reminds me of the ethos of spring. What is more fresh than the new growth, the rain-cleansed forest, the crisp cool air of this season? All around Mendocino County, the landscape is shaking off the snowy and rainy days for warmer moments. To participate in this season of new beginnings, many decide to eat a cleaner diet filled with vegetables, or to start a cleanse, leaving the rich and decadent foods of the holidays behind in search of a new, healthier start.
Spring is one of my favorite seasons because, whereas my friends and family on the East Coast still have months of grey and snow, we in the west are overwhelmed with bright green. The fir trees sprout their fluorescent chartreuse tips, which are filled with vitamin C. Moist soils are still providing mushrooms for foragers. On the seas, crab season is in full swing, ensuring that the markets and crabby events are fully stocked. Even during this relatively lean time of year, there remains significant bounty.
You can embrace this season as an opportunity to make a fresh start of your own. Justine Lemos, a yoga teacher and Ayurvedic expert on the coast, lays out an easy three-day cleanse to support vitality and immunity. Learn about the dynamic young couple behind Wilder Ferments, a uniquely delicious line of kombucha drinks infused with seasonal flavors and their associated nutrients. New this spring, keep an eye out for Jamu, a turmeric, tamarind, ginger, and lime concoction. Many folks are eating less meat, either for moral reasons or environmental and health concerns—our editor shares her story of going vegan, and writer Mayte Guerrero reviews Taste Buds Natural Selections, a vegan restaurant in Ukiah.
As the weather warms and the sunshine lingers a little longer each day, it is a great time to get outside. Maybe now is the time to take up surfing (this has found its way onto my to-do list) or get more movement in your life by hiking the trails or biking the roads of our beautiful county. Spring is the season to plant the seeds of what you want in the future, be that in your garden or in your life.
A wise person once said that the best time to plant trees was 20 years ago, but the second-best time to plant them is today. Now is also is the perfect time for our own fresh and clean start.
Holly Madrigal
Winter 2019 Publisher's Note
The mountains and valleys of Mendocino County have long been home to rabble-rousers, misfits, and those who choose to do things a little differently. The original native inhabitants of this place endured forced relocation and persecution, and yet they continue to fight to heal and grow their cultural legacy. The homesteaders crafted a hardscrabble living from abundant local resources like logging, ranching, and fishing. The “back to the landers” found off-grid acreage from which they sought to build community, birthing a solar revolution far before it was mainstream. We do it differently here.
It must be something in the air in these parts that causes residents to think there must be another way to do it. Our activist heritage is deep. Independent-spirited homebuilders battled the building department for years, eventually developing “Class K,” a completely innovative way to permit a building—even those made of straw, cob, or patched together with recycled wood.
When Organic Certification was taken over by the USDA and standards began to slip, local food advocates created “Mendocino Renegade” certification, which went beyond organic. Farms that achieve this certification are rigorously peer-reviewed to ensure their crops are grown to the highest biological standards and are chemical, synthetic, and GMO-free. Mendocino Renegade is a tax-exempt, educational working group which helped launch Measure H, a successful initiative to ban GMOs in Mendocino County (learn more on page 25). Fifteen years ago, Mendocino County became the first in the nation to pass such a law. The agrochemical corporation, Monsanto, poured $750,000 of advertising and legal dollars into a campaign to defeat Measure H, but the local activist spirit won out.
I appreciate this local tendency to upend the status quo. As a longtime resident of Mendocino County, I know that visitors can occasionally be startled at the frankness of our dialogue at community meetings, the brashness of our activism, the orneriness of our residents. But I know that this is part of what makes this place so unique. If you want cookie-cutter ideas or groupthink, this is not the place to find it. But if you want mostly vegan southern food (page 6) and fried green tomato sliders that will make you yearn for more, then this is the place for you. If the problems of the day seem insurmountable and you want to see a group of raucous young farmers who are forging a new collective path, then Mendocino County is the right place. If the self-sufficiency lifestyle floats your boat, then get out to our tempestuous coastline and harvest your own salt.
The local ethos is what makes Mendocino County so interesting. So, I choose to celebrate the firebrands, the activists, the vocal curmudgeons. Life would be so much more boring without them. Lord knows the greater world could use some creative thinking to solve some of the daunting global problems. Word of Mouth has collected these stories of people doing things differently to inspire action in the year to come. Let’s get to it.
Holly Madrigal
PS: We sometimes are asked if back issues are available, so we’ve launched the Word of Mouth Year-End Flashback Sale! Available as single issues, year bundles, or the full collection of all 15 issues.
It's Time for Treats!
Fans of the TV show Parks and Recreation will recognize this issue’s theme of “Treat Yo’self.” In the show, local government employees, Tom and Donna, take a day off to revel in the joys of retail therapy and personal indulgence. And while not all of us have either the means or the desire to follow Tom and Donna to the mall when we’re feeling depleted, there are all sorts of options available in Mendocino County when you’re looking for a little luxury to revive your spirits—and this issue is designed to provide just that.
Here at Word of Mouth, we do the hard work of scouring the region to highlight the truly wonderful producers, farmers, and chefs who can make your day delicious. We know it is tough, but we put in the time to treat ourselves in order to make the very best recommendations. If an exquisite meal strikes your fancy, head to Elk where Matt Kammerer and the Harbor House Inn have brought the first Michelin Star to the county. One meal created by Matt involved slow-smoking sliced squash over locally harvested seaweed. It may sound unusual, but the resulting rich umami flavor was transcendent, and it was all I could do not to lick the bowl.
Harbor House is not the only Mendocino County establishment where excellent food is paired with stellar hospitality. Check out “Eat Well, Sleep Well” (p 6) for an incomplete list of places like The Apple Farm (where you can help make the meals and learn new recipes and techniques in the process), Brewery Gulch Inn (where you get a light dinner buffet as well as breakfast table service), and Glendeven Inn (where breakfast shows up on your doorstep in a basket brimming with goodies).
Few things feel more indulgent than a glass of bubbles, and we’re lucky to have the award-winning Roederer Estate in Anderson Valley creating delicious and affordable sparkling wines. And if you want to explore the deep and varied world of wine-tasting, get some tips from local girl Laurel Livezey, who is currently studying to be a sommelier in NYC.
While treating yourself can feel frivolous, there’s real value in the practice of turning our attention to the aspects of life that comfort and delight us, that build us up and bring a sense of renewal. As I write this, I reflect on how many of us are dealing with pain and stress. I had to turn off the news this morning to take a personal break from the anxiety-inducing broadcast. Sometimes indulgence is taking a walk in nature, carving out a moment from work to take a yoga class, or scheduling a sleep-in snugglefest with the kids. Then I thought of my mom, who made sure to save enough for retirement so she could afford a monthly massage. Treating yourself is about prioritizing happiness. So I invite you to sneak out to see that movie you have been wanting to catch, raise a glass of Roederer to a recent accomplishment, or make a date with your sweetie to stargaze in your pajamas. Get creative and treat yo’self.
Holly Madrigal