Publisher's Note
“More dance parties,” a friend said to me sagely as we tentatively gathered, battling the physical awkwardness of hanging out with people again. And I agree. After more than a year of being sequestered in our homes and social bubbles, it does feel like there is hope on the horizon. It’s the kind of promise summertime always holds, but this season it feels different, accentuated, turned up to 11. More dance parties—yes! But also more outside, more barbeques, more beach days, more friends, more family, and more genuine celebration. After all, we’ve made it through a global pandemic, and that’s reason enough to let loose.
This summer I have more appreciation for the things we used to take for granted, a sentiment I hear echoed everywhere I go. The pandemic forced us to do more with less, and many of our neighbors drew on impressive reserves of creativity and determination. The Plowshares community kitchen and garden has not only survived the pandemic, but has also expanded their meals and services to assist even more people (p 11). The Fort Bragg treasure Piaci Pub & Pizzeria (p 7) has spilled out of its tiny restaurant space onto the parking lot, turning up the heat with live music and some of the best pizza around. (This outdoor space may be the perfect place for one of those dance parties …)
We are also sharing the stories of those who are doing things differently. A self-serve farm box has taken the place of a traditional roadside farmstand at Good Things Farm (p 33), using an honor system that has created both access to the farm’s bounty but also a fierce loyalty from the neighborhood. And we highlight people who are accomplishing crazy things! On the edge of the West Coast, a visionary fellow is growing avocados in Humboldt County (p 45). Shelter Cove, where this farmer lives, is certainly worth a summertime visit.
Like me, you may want to drink up all those experiences you had to forgo last summer. Now is the time to venture out and visit that winery you have always wanted to visit, like Weatherborne in Anderson Valley (p 25). Or try your hand at catching dinner on the high seas with Anchor Charter Boats (p 35). There is no end to the potential experiences, and the key is to relish them. Let us appreciate the friends and the moments this season will bring. Let’s kick off our shoes and wiggle our toes in the grass (or the sand). And we absolutely need more dance parties.
Holly Madrigal, Publisher
Gratitude for Summer’s Abundance of Basil
by Torrey Douglass
One of summer’s many blessings is its bounty of basil. Leafy, fragrant, and green as the Italian flag’s emerald stripe, it adds a zesty herbal flourish to everything from starters, salads, meat, fish, and even desserts. My success at growing basil would be generously described as mixed, so I turned to two time-tested experts for their sage (ha!) advice.
Mike and Vickie Brock have been farming their property north of Boonville for over twenty years, and their basil never disappoints. Vickie credits their use of remay, also known as floating row cover—a thin white cloth that protects the plants from frost damage in the cold and sun damage in the heat, and aids moisture retention in the soil.
A relative of mint, basil provides health benefits through its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory compounds. In the kitchen, it plays well with other flavors like garlic, mustard, rosemary, and paprika. Mike and Vickie like to use it in their Lemon Basil Chicken for a summer dinner on the grill. Don’t let this season go by without taking full advantage of its abundance of fresh basil.
Lemon Basil Chicken
A note from Mike: This is what we do with home-grown chicken, which is a bit tougher since they run around a bit more than store-bought. It works best with chicken breast, or if you have legs and thighs, we marinate in lemon juice longer.
Juice of 2-3 lemons + some zest
2 large chicken breasts
1 garlic clove
1/3 c olive oil
1 bunch basil, stems removed, leaves chopped
Mix the lemon juice and zest in a bowl, then add the chicken breasts and let it marinate in the fridge for a half hour. Add the olive oil, crushed garlic, and chopped basil leaves, mix well, and marinate for another half hour. Remove the breasts and generously season with salt and pepper, then drizzle with additional olive oil and grill until cooked through. Great with a cold pasta salad or rice pilaf and a fresh summer salad.
Brock Farm
11960 Goodacre Lane (off lower Peachland Road), Boonville
Farmstand open seasonally
Piaci
Amazing Pizza & Beer in a Down-to-Earth Setting
by Anna Levy
On a warm evening in early spring, when the novelty of long sunlight and the hope of increased rates of coronavirus vaccinations coalesced to entice people outdoors, a small (and distanced) crowd gathered to listen to live music on the makeshift patio of Piaci Pub and Pizzeria in Fort Bragg. The mood was festive, if a bit cautious, almost as if dining outdoors on such a night was too much good to hold after a long year spent largely in isolation.
It’s unsurprising that such a scene unfolded at Piaci. The restaurant, which has operated in a tucked-away nook of town for the past 20 years, has always excelled at creating a feeling of jovial community. It’s easy to remember crowded winter evenings there when every wooden stool was taken—regulars telling stories at the bar; families sharing tables with strangers who often felt like friends by the end of the meal. Though such things feel both spontaneous and serendipitous, Stephen Duerr, who has owned the restaurant since 2003, explicitly fostered that spirit of togetherness. “We live here,” he explains. “We want to be part of the community, and we want people coming in here to feel like part of the community.”
The restaurant—cash-only, with an ATM in the back—has drawn legions of fans hungry for a taste of the experience. Pizzas are sold whole, rather than in slices, but regulars know that it’s possible to order more than one type on any size larger than a small. With a range of toppings from prosciutto and pears to pepperoni and pesto, the customizations seem limitless. And though pizza gets top billing on the menu, Piaci also offers salads, calzones, focaccia, and more.
The on-point thin crust pizza and other tasty dishes are not the only reason people flock to Piaci’s. Above the bar is a frequently-updated chalkboard that displays an esoteric and ever-changing selection of craft beers. Recent brews included Wild Turkey Bourbon Barrel Stout, Death & Taxes Black Lager, Dirty Bastard Scotch Ale, and Friends with Benefits Dry Hopped Cider. Clearly excellent ales are the pride of Piaci’s, with the following declaration carved into a ceiling beam: Then long may here the ale charged Tankards shine; Long may the Hop plant triumph o’er the Vine.
Stephen emphasizes the importance of tapping into local purveyors and creating a menu built on excellent food and diverse drink choices. The restaurant had been open for about 16 months when Stephen purchased it. At that time it offered, “… seven or eight beers on tap, maybe eight pizzas, a couple calzones, three salads.” It was a dinner-only spot, and though Stephen quickly started offering lunch as well, he kept to the model that was working so well. “We knew the pizza crust was a solid base, so we just tweaked it a little bit.” Other than that, the basics were already laid out: “Thin crust pizza, high quality beers, using high quality ingredients. That’s it.”
The guidelines for Piaci remain simple, dependent on the restaurant’s one way of cooking—the pizza oven in back—and ingredients that stand out because of their quality. With lettuces for salads grown locally; meat sourced from Roundman’s and a butcher in San Rafael; gluten-free crusts from a bakery in San Anselmo; and a beer and wine list showcasing producers in Mendocino, Humboldt, and Sonoma counties, the vast majority of Piaci’s food and drink are produced in California. “Everything is scratch-made in the kitchen,” Stephen explains.
With this formula, Piaci’s fan base has grown, largely dependent on faithful locals and tourists. “We don’t really advertise,” Stephen says, admitting that the space, just 800 square feet including the kitchen, tucked off of Highway 1, isn’t the most visible. Yet when thoughts of moving the restaurant have come up over the years, it has never seemed quite right. “This isn’t a huge town. We don’t need 100 seats,” he explains. “There aren’t a lot of people to keep it going in January. I don’t have to hire seasonally. If it’s a slow time, there’s plenty of work for our staff. We just keep on trucking.”
This past year, of course, has brought challenges that no one could have imagined, and Stephen has found himself grateful for the straightforward nature of Piaci’s model. The priority all along has been to keep the staff safe and employed, but the financial impact of the pandemic was undeniable. “Usually in the summer, you bank as much as you can, but with the pandemic and the shutdown, it was getting tight. We started backsliding, and once you get a little behind on a food bill, it’s tens of thousands of dollars.” A PPP loan helped the restaurant stay afloat, and help from the city, in terms of allowing outdoor dining, was crucial. “The city made it clear and simple to be able to serve outside,” he says, even as he laughs about the safety concerns that came with simply marking off parking spots for tables and chairs.
A metal roof allowed the outdoor space to become more defined, and “that’s really what kept us open,” Stephen admits. “Even in the wintertime, I had people who came in every day. It’s raining sideways and I felt like, God bless you.” It has also opened up new possibilities, as Stephen says that he’d like to work with the City of Fort Bragg and the Alcoholic Beverage Control Board to make the outdoor space permanent. “Hopefully we’ll have an outdoor beer garden forever. That would double our capacity and add one or two staff members every day.”
There are other ideas that Stephen has for the future. Regular live music is on his wishlist, and he describes a potential stage and lineup of local artists. In addition, “I would really like to get back into the catering thing a little bit,” he says, reminiscing fondly about a particular job catering for one of the owners of the San Francisco Giants. He is also considering new adventures for the future, such as outfitting a food truck for festivals.
For the time being, though, Stephen says the focus is on simply being able to continue offering the community what Piaci has come to be known for. “I just need to make sure Piaci survives and that our staff is comfortable, healthy, well-paid. We have a solid kitchen, and we have to give credit to staff members who can be both entertaining and deal with the stresses of people coming in. Without that help, there’s no way you’re going to make it.” Many staff members have been at Piaci for more than a decade, and Stephen expresses deep gratitude for their presence, commitment, and professionalism. “They make it so that I can get everything I need to get done, done. I credit all of them.”
Ultimately, whether navigating a pandemic or simply delivering on the promise of a consistently good meal, Piaci has come to be seen as not just a local favorite, but also a stalwart of this town. And whether it’s supporting local purveyors, highlighting regional beverages, building a sustainable workplace for staff, or inviting customers to return, Stephen knows that part of the reason it’s all possible is because of this particular coastal area. “I like the impact one person has on a small-town community, as opposed to some place like Manhattan, where I lived for a long time. Here you can get elected to city council. You can help people who can’t feed themselves. You can do a lot to help support your community. I appreciate that a lot.”
And in this moment, when people are ready to discover the new normal that life in a post-pandemic world may create, it seems that Piaci is positioned well to remain a favorite. Whether cozied up inside its well-loved space or sitting together—and distanced—outside, it’s clear that pizza, beer, and good times remain forever on Piaci’s menu.
Piaci Pub & Pizzeria
120 W Redwood Ave, Fort Bragg
(707) 961-1133
Open Sun–Thu 11am–9pm, Fri & Sat 11am–10pm
Hours subject to change
Anna Levy has a passion for writing and travel. She and her family live on the coast.
Plowshares
Feeding Community
by Elizabeth Archer
If Mendocino County were a living organism, Plowshares Peace and Justice Center would be a critical artery. As a truly local non-profit organization, Plowshares is mostly community-funded and supported. Part of its mission is to provide a welcoming environment “where all are treated with respect, justice, and dignity,” a mission it takes very seriously.
Since 1983, Plowshares has fed and empowered our most vulnerable populations. The Community Dining Room and Meals-on-Wheels programs serve over 70,000 meals annually—almost 1,500 a week—to anyone in need, no questions asked. Plowshares also offers Community Service and Work Release Programs, and connects its clients to local resources for work, housing, physical and mental health services, and more. The personal care center gives out items such as soap, toothpaste, diapers, underwear and socks, and pet food; provides a phone and mailing address for clients to send and receive mail; and often offers services like free haircuts.
Although the pandemic has necessitated rapid and constant adaptation, last spring Plowshares was able to quickly implement new safety measures and practices, such as installing a plastic barrier on the food service line, sanitized daily and replaced monthly. They also reduced indoor dining to 25%, now offer to-go options, and provide free masks along with a handwashing station to everyone who enters the building. There was a large increase in clients at the start of the pandemic as people unexpectedly lost their jobs and needed a little extra help, with about 1,000 extra meals per month being served. That number has mostly returned to pre-pandemic levels, but Plowshares remains open and available to any and all who need it.
In fact, Plowshares is offering more than ever before. Thanks to partnerships with the Seventh Day Adventist Church, The Hunger Express, and Interfaith Network, the Dining Room and Meals-on-Wheels are now providing meals on weekends. For the first time in its nearly 40 years of operation, Plowshares is open 365 days a year.
None of this would be possible without two things: community support and dedicated volunteers. According to Plowshares Office Manager, Kristina Keene, “We have one of the most amazing, caring communities, and the support during the pandemic has been unbelievable.” The 14th Annual Empty Bowls fundraiser was converted to a drive-through event which sold out quickly. The Winter Appeal fundraiser blew way past its $90,000 goal, raising more than $132,000. In addition, Plowshares is supported by the T.R. Eriksen Foundation and a Community Resiliency and Preparedness grant from The Community Foundation of Mendocino County.
In order to put every dollar to its maximum, best use, Plowshares relies on its dedicated volunteers. About half of their volunteers were not able to take on the risk of working in a community setting during the pandemic, but according to Keene, “The [remaining] volunteers stepped up to make sure Plowshares was taken care of. Many come in multiple times a week to make sure there is plenty of coverage.” She adds that many of the volunteers who have been observing the state’s stay-at-home mandate are starting to come back into the fold. “We are so happy to see those smiling faces again,” says Keene.
Adaptation didn’t only happen in the dining room. It has also played a vital role in the Plowshares garden over the years, which has undergone a few different iterations and is currently managed by The Gardens Project of North Coast Opportunities (NCO). In 2019, 23 of NCO’s 26 plots were converted to community garden plots, with the other three reserved for Plowshares. Originally, these plots were meant to be co-managed and provide a space to work with clients in the garden, but with COVID-19, those efforts were paused. Instead, community gardeners have been diligently cultivating those beds and donating 100% of the produce to the Plowshares’ kitchen. The relationship between Plowshares and The Gardens Project is built on mutual trust and communication, and the partnership has made each organization stronger, enabling both to offer more services.
Within the Plowshares garden, there are four different languages spoken: English, Spanish, Cantonese, and Nepali. Says Garden Manager, Lucy Kramer, “It’s the most multi-cultural garden in our network, and it’s really neat to see this cultural legacy preserved through what the gardeners plant in that space.”
Each NCO gardener pays an average of $60/year for their plot, which covers land access, water, seeds and plant starts, tools, irrigation supplies, compost, workshops and trainings, and access to a large network of gardeners. “Most people wouldn’t otherwise have land to cultivate, and some choose to grow in a community garden to have the opportunity to learn from their neighbors,” says Kramer. All of the gardeners live below the federal poverty line, and although most were not clients before gardening there, most of them now interact with Plowshares, eating meals in the dining room and taking advantage of the resources available.
As California enters yet another drought season, The Gardens Project is as committed as ever to water-wise policies. It has built underground irrigation systems with automatic drip timers in each of its gardens, including an all-new system at the Plowshares garden in 2020. It encourages watering at off-peak times, growing low-water plants, and using mulch to retain moisture.
The future of Plowshares seems certain: it is a keystone among our area’s support organizations, with tremendous community support and some of the most dedicated volunteers you will find anywhere. However, certain does not equal stagnant, and Plowshares continues to grow and adapt to the changing times. Their next big project is to convert to solar power, with the goal of being fully operational during disaster events in order to provide essential services and function as a community hub with cool-down stations, places to charge devices, and more. This environmentally conscious upgrade will also eliminate monthly utility expenses, saving approximately $10,000 each year, which will be redirected into their service programs. With installation scheduled to start very soon, Plowshares will continue to be a bright beacon of hope and change for years to come.
Plowshares Peace & Justice Center
1346 S. State St., Ukiah
(707) 462-8582 | PlowsharesFeeds.org
Free hot lunch open to all Mon–Fri 11:30am – Noon, Sat & Sun 3:00pm
Early seating for families with children and seniors 65+. Personal care center is open at this time as well, where guests can use the phone and pick up mail and personal hygiene items.
Photo Credits:
Workers behind plastic and dish of food: Kristina Keene
Photo of garden: Lucy Kramer
Elizabeth Archer is an enthusiastic eater and promoter of the local food scene in Mendocino County. She and her husband run Carson and Bees, a beekeeping operation in Ukiah.
Farm to Ferment
Mendo Ferments Makes Locally Inspired, Creatively Crafted, Deliciously Fermented Foods
by Sara Stapleton
“Fermentation is magic. It’s alchemy, really,” shared Michelle Costa, the owner and creative force behind Mendo Ferments, as we peered into a sturdy steel fermentation vat. Visible inside of the vessel, under the weight of traditional ceramic fermentation stones, was the vibrant magenta hue that only her Beet Ginger Sauerkraut could impart. Alchemy—a word that may conjure thoughts of the ancient mystery of transformation and creation—can, in its simplest sense, be described as taking something ordinary and turning it into something extraordinary. Some might argue that cabbage is anything but ordinary, and Michelle’s creations surely dance with it. Salt, spices, and time, paired with farm fresh produce and her trained and watchful senses, bring to life delicious, healthful, living foods jarred and bottled for us to enjoy.
Fermented foods have existed for thousands of years, allowing people throughout history to preserve their harvests and to create foods and beverages that were more easily digestible. Within the last decade or so, they have come wildly back in style, and for good reason. Research suggests that the gut may actually be the center of our health, affecting not only our physical body, but our mental and emotional states as well. Believe it or not, serotonin, a neurotransmitter and key hormone that acts to stabilize our mood and feelings of well being, is made there. The gut is also home to a large part of our immune system, and by enjoying fermented foods teeming with probiotics, you are nourishing its lining, or mucosa, and strengthening that natural barrier. Ferments are truly an ally for the times.
Michelle began experimenting with kombucha in the 1990s, but it was in 2010 that the fun really began, when she and her husband, Craig, picked up a crock and Sandor Katz’s early zine on fermentation at Bountiful Gardens’ old Willits storefront. She cites Katz’s work, as well as the classic cookbook, Nourishing Traditions (Fallon, 1995), and the Cultured Pickle Shop in Berkeley, to be amongst some of her biggest inspirations. But what she does is truly a work of her own.
Michelle allows her love of the land and the seasonal bounties it provides to guide her in crafting many of her specialty products. Springtime brings her “Mendo Blendo” kraut, made with the delights of fresh wild greens and flowers—dandelion, chickweed, yarrow, burdock, and violet—and reminding us that food is medicine. She also crafts a jun made with our regional delight, the candycap mushroom, as well as a home-brewed madrone bark tea—a true taste of place. After a few years of experimenting in her own kitchen, Michelle was feeling called to create something for herself. She had discovered how good these foods felt in the body and wanted to share the gift of fermentation with the greater community. So, Mendo Ferments was born.
Mendo Ferments got its start with the help of the folks at Mariposa Market, who allowed Michelle to bulk order organic vegetables to be delivered to the store, solving one of the problems of living rurally where large trucks simply can’t access. She also credits the Little Lake Grange as instrumental in the success of her business, as they have allowed her, along with a few other local entrepreneurs, to rent their commercial kitchen space at a fair rate. It is difficult to find affordable commercial space in the area, but she does someday hope to find a place for Mendo Ferments to call home.
In 2019, Michelle met with a local business advisor. They shared ideas for ways she could grow her business, and while she took the advice to heart, and even drove down to Sonoma Country to begin marketing her product, she soon had a realization—she really didn’t want to grow her business to a large, impersonal scale. What she really wanted was to stay truly hands-on and to be involved in every step of the process, with quality remaining paramount. Admirably, Michelle says that while she may never get rich, she wants to stay small and serve our community by being a big part of our local food web.
This local food web has played a huge part during COVID-19, particularly in regard to the area’s food supply. “It’s not just by chance that we were able to be so resilient here in Mendocino County, to adapt and continue to thrive while so many big name grocers throughout the country were left with their produce supply dwindling. It was the farmers and food producers here that created that,” Michelle said. It is as a result of their hard work and commitment that we’ve been able eat so well, even through those early, uncertain months of the pandemic.
Michelle purchases from area farms such as Covelo Organics, Inland Ranch, and the New Agrarian Collective whenever possible, and you will often see her take a quick step away from her booth at the farmers market to roam the stalls and see what is fresh and in the moment. “It can be hard, you know! With so many incredible things always popping up, we often find ourselves making lots of fun, small batches inspired by what we find.” With many of these batches not large enough for her higher volume accounts, you might be able to scoop one up at the farmers market if you’re lucky! In addition to some of her most popular offerings, such as Kim Chee, the Sea Witch Sauerkraut made with locally sourced sea palm, and a hibiscus jun, you’ll also find seasonal items such as fresh cucumber pickles, a local rose kombucha, and a white Kim Chee made with the addition of Asian pear.
In talking with Michelle about her products, and even more so in tasting them, her excitement and passion for the craft and of the care that goes into them really shine through. And though often behind the scenes, her husband, Craig, plays a big part in the production process, and is key in recipe research and development.
There is an abundance of possibilities for enjoying the goodies within Mendo Ferments’ charming cylindrical jars. Kim Chee over ramen or in fried rice, sauerkraut atop salad or piled on a warm Reuben sandwich. And don’t forget the kombucha to quench your thirst while delivering delicious benefits for your belly. All told, we are lucky to have our own local “Kim Chee Lady.” To your health!
Mendo Ferments is available at local organic markets and co-ops and the Ukiah, Fort Bragg, and Willits farmers markets, as well as the MendoLake Food Hub.
MendoFerments.com | @mendoferments (Instagram)
Sara Stapleton lives and farms with her partner in the mountainous valleys of southwest Willits, and is currently sowing the seeds for her postpartum doula business.
Wasting Away
How the Keep America Beautiful Campaign Helped Uglify America and What We Can Do About It Now
by Torrey Douglass
As a child of the 70s and 80s, I grew up seeing ad campaigns from the Keep America Beautiful® (KAB) organization on billboards and TV. I encountered its logo on soda bottles and posters, imploring us to pick up our trash. The group first began to spread its anti-litter message in the early 50s and was originally represented by its first spokes-hero, Suzy Spotless, a cutiepie little girl, dressed immaculately in white, who threw garbage into trash cans under the tagline, “Every Litter Bit Hurts,” in a tone that was equal parts simpering and scolding.
By the time the 70s arrived, ads with Ms. Spotless weren’t packing the same cultural punch, so the (in)famous “Crying Indian” campaign was created, featuring “Iron Eyes Cody,” a popular Western film star of the day. In the commercial spot, the Italian-American actor, dressed in Native American garb, encounters pollution everywhere—cluttering the stream that carries his canoe, belched into the air by the factories he passes, and thrown out of car windows to sully the ground around his moccasins. Litter is caused by people and can be stopped by people, the message says. Stop making noble Mr. Indian sad. Clean up your crap.
Always a bit of a wild child, I preferred climbing trees or tunneling into the depths of a forsythia bush in full bloom to any indoor endeavor. So when I saw ads produced by KAB, I was entirely on board. The idea that we don’t want garbage tarnishing nature’s glory resonated deeply. I wanted to keep America beautiful. I wanted to do my part. Litterbugs were the worst, I silently agreed, whenever KAB messages found their way to me.
What I didn’t realize then but understand now is this: Keep America Beautiful was the outcome of beverage and plastic companies fighting back against pressures to hold their industry accountable. While they had formerly used glass bottles that were returned and re-used, beverage companies had shifted to single-use containers as part of a post-war push to maximize consumerism, and there was a corresponding spike in trash besmirching America’s landscapes. American Can Company, Owens-Illinois Glass Company, Coca-Cola, and the Dixie Cup Company came together to create KAB after Vermont passed a law prohibiting these “throwaway bottles” in 1953, a law made because glass shards from bottles thrown from passing cars were endangering the cows grazing in roadside pastures.
The legislation sent shivers through the beverage industry, and they answered anonymously from behind the guise of KAB. Powerful ad campaigns labeled the waste as “litter” and the culprits as “litterbugs,” consumers who purchased their products but didn’t manage the resulting trash properly. The same organization that created the scolding or heart-tugging ads about the terrible problem of waste pollution was simultaneously lobbying hard against any bills that would force manufacturers to adjust their central role in the litter’s production.
The planet has paid a price for the KAB’s successes, giving plastic producers free reign to generate packaging that is used once, and then haunts our seas and landfills for centuries. And they are not slowing down. Half of all plastic waste in existence has been produced since 2005, and only 9% is ultimately recycled. The remaining plastics—50% of which is food and drink packaging—can break down into microscopic pieces that enter the foodchain and end up in our food and water—and, consequently, inside of us. According to a study by the World Wildlife Fund and executed by the University of Newcastle, Australia, people consume about a credit card-worth of plastic each week. Suzy Spotless would not be pleased.
Yet there are ways to pressure producers to address the problem, with many developed countries and some U.S. states adopting Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) laws, compelling companies to reckon with the waste their products ultimately become. But industry lobbyists continue to push back against EPR laws, fiercely defending those sweet, sweet profits that single-use packaging enables. In light of their reluctance, downstream participants in the lifecycle of packaged foods and beverages can and are taking action, from the retailers that carry the products to the consumers who buy them.
the bulk food section at Ukiah Natural Foods Co-op
Ukiah Natural Foods Co-op has been working hard to reduce their role in contributing to the global problem of accumulating plastic waste. Their efforts go right back to the store’s roots as a buying club, when members came together to purchase in bulk in order to, among other goals, reduce the packaging that contained their food purchases. While a number of their measures have been suspended due to the COVID pandemic, manager Lori Rosenberg hopes to reinstate and exceed their waste-reduction actions once it’s safe to do so.
These efforts span all departments, from the paper and cellophane bags the deli uses for sandwiches in place of plastic wrap, to the collection of leftover juice pulp and produce clippings, which are passed along to local farmers for feed and compost. Styrofoam pellets are saved for a local pack and ship shop that uses them to send parcels, and unsellable foods are donated to Plowshares. The Co-op even sent letters to independent vendors a few years ago, asking them to stop using styrofoam pellets and to instead package their goods in recycled paper or cardboard. Many agreed and adjusted their shipping practices, and some even sent letters of thanks for the initiative.
Of course, customers are encouraged to bring their own bags and can even bring clean containers from home to fill with bulk items like dry goods, honey, oils, and even some beauty items like shampoo and conditioner. But there’s still a long way to go. Pallets are returned to distributors for reuse, but the shrink wrap that secures boxes to them continues to end up in the dumpster. The store offers over 25,000 products, many of which are packaged in plastic. “I wish there were programs to recycle all this plastic,” says Rosenberg. “There just has to be a way.”
When seeking solutions for such a complex problem, the approach must be multifaceted. Yes, consumers must reduce their consumption of plastic-packaged goods where possible and maximize recycling where they can (see sidebar for suggestions). Yes, stores and other retailers should prioritize products with reusable or eco-friendly packaging. And yes, producers need to finally own their role as the source of this problem, abandoning the high-hype/low-results initiatives they’ve pursued in the past and instead pursue solutions that actually reduce the planet’s overabundance of plastic waste.
American individualism has some admirable components, but the fact stands that we can achieve more collectively than we can individually, and legislation is the most effective expression of collective will. Laws that force food and beverage producers to take responsibility for their single-use packaging would have the greatest impact in stemming the tide of plastic waste. Some of that plastic ends up in our oceans, and if we do nothing, the weight of ocean plastic will exceed the weight all the fish in all the seas by 2050. Let’s do all we can, personally and legislatively, to put our planet on a different path, so tomorrow’s wild child will have their own beautiful natural spaces to explore.
Sidebar: What You Can Do
Opt for glass jars instead of plastic wherever possible—and be sure to reuse or recycle them!
Bring your own bags when shopping, and use your own coffee mug and water bottle when sipping away from home.
Avoid “wish-cycling”! Make sure you understand recycling rules, as deliveries contaminated with non-recyclables are sent to the landfill. Plastic companies have co-opted the triangle arrow symbol, insisting it appear on all plastic containers regardless of their recyclability. To be safe, only add clean plastic labeled 1 or 2 to your recycling bin.
Compost your food waste.
Carry reusable utensils with you so you can skip the one-use plastic versions when getting take-out. On their website, MendoParks offers a bamboo set that is both light and attractive.
Avoid plastic packaging when you can, like the molded plastic clamshells holding a bunch of apples, and let the retailer know that packaging affects your purchasing choices.
Encourage your elected representatives to support EPR bills to address the problem of food packaging waste at its source.
Summer Outdoor Adventures in Mendocino County
Where to Go to Play Outside
Things change! Check websites for current info before you depart.
Go Wild at B. Bryan Preserve
Run away to Africa on the Mendocino coast with a tour of B. Bryan Preserve in Point Arena. You can hop in the vintage Land Rovers for a 3:30pm guided tour or enjoy a self-guided tour in your own vehicle every morning at 10:00am. B. Bryan Preserve is home to three kinds of zebra, antelope, and giraffe—all endangered. Both tours end with feeding the majestic giraffe!
Stroll Among the Flowers at the Botanical Gardens
The Mendocino Coast Botanical Gardens boasts 47 acres and 4 miles of trails, displaying and conserving plants in harmony with the Northern California coastal ecosystems and preserving public access to the coast. Their collections span camellias, conifers, succulents, magnolias, and so much more, including over 124 species of rhododendron.
Float Up Big River
Drink in the gorgeous views and listen to the birdsong perched atop your own redwood outrigger canoe! Catch-a-Canoe and Bicycles Too! rents these un-tippable vessels to take you up Big River into miles of undeveloped forestland. You’ll spot otter, osprey, seals, and geese, among other wildlife. Depending on the tide, it’s an easy glide along the current or a vigorous upper body workout against it.
Explore the Wild Gardens
at the Grace Hudson Museum
The beautiful Wild Gardens at Ukiah’s Grace Hudson Museum is an outdoor educational environment full of native Northern California plants and habitats. You’ll learn about regional ecosystems, environmental sustainability, and the cultural traditions and land management practices of the Pomo Indians, the original inhabitants of the region.
Ride the Rails in Fort Bragg
Climb aboard the Skunk Train’s two-person rail bikes for an electric-powered adventure into the redwoods. The two hour journey includes a stop at Glen Blair Junction for a picnic or mini-hike. Bring water and layer up for this exciting open-air excursion along the rails.
Hike, Bike, and Beach
Below are some more excellent resources for finding where to play outside this summer.
Public Beaches and State Parks: mendoparks.org
Coastal Hiking Trails: mendocinolandtrust.org/trails
Mendocino Bike Rentals: catchacanoe.com
Fort Bragg Bike Rentals: emeralddolphin.com/bike-rentals.html
Ukiah Area Options: visitukiah.com/outdoor-recreation
County-wide Activities: visitmendocino.com
Weatherborne
Aviation-Inspired Wine
by Cris Carter
You might not want to sit next to me on a plane. I won’t be closing the shade so you can watch The Office without glare on your screen. I booked the window seat on purpose. I will be studying the curve of Horseshoe Bend, the timbered slopes of the Coastal Range and the maze of freeways in the LA Basin. From thirty-thousand feet, the world feels small and fragile. That vertical perspective is nothing to turn away from. Better to plant your face firmly on the glass and regain your sense of awe from hurtling through the troposphere at close to Mach speed.
My flight path to Anderson Valley was full of long layovers and maybe a few missed connections. I have worked in wine from Southern California to Oregon to New Zealand and back to Cali. Traveling gives one a breadth of experience that shapes how the world is viewed—you know, seeing the forest, not just the trees. My family bought thirty acres of abandoned apple trees and wild grasses in 2015. While we still don’t have a tractor, and our fences still need to be mended, we have started working on our farm. We have planted dozens of fruit trees, including heritage cider apples and perry pears, for future fermentation products. We still need to get some goats and sheep, still need to clear out some poison oak and blackberries, but we have a dream, and isn’t that what California is really about?
I believe that regenerative agriculture is the path forward for California’s farmland. With a warming climate and less rainfall being the new pattern, you will be hearing a lot more about dry farmed grapes! I understand that a lot of people don’t want to see another vineyard in Anderson Valley. Fine, but let me tell you, apples and sheep don’t pay the property taxes anymore in Mendocino, let alone support families easily. Farmers need to add value to their products if they want to survive. Whether that’s growing grapes to make wine, or offering guest stays in a working apple orchard, farmland will only stay farmland by making economic sense.
I’m not an expert in restorative or regenerative farming, but luckily the practices are simple: avoid monocultures, include wild areas, increase biodiversity, care for your soil, and don’t poison your well. Weatherborne has only purchased organic grapes (not all third-party certified) since 2018 and will continue doing so. I believe we need to start planning for a warmer future, so I focus on Grenache, which could do well in Anderson Valley in the coming decades. I still love Pinot and still make it, but it’s nice to do something different. I make my wines with care, intervening only when absolutely necessary.
As a small business owner, I wear many hats, from accounting to deliveries to the actual winemaking. But I find the most joy in pouring a nice glass of wine for new guests and seeing their eyes light up when that first delicious sip hits their tongues. I hope one day I can be behind the bar, but for now we have a nice shady patio and a sunny picnic area.
Wine is wonderful because you can travel the world in a glass, on your porch by yourself or at your table with dear friends. The stories contained in those ounces are stories of joy, of pain, of successes and defeats. Wine is real, or at least it should be. Yes, there are tank farms of industrial juice shipped around the world like any other commodity. Perhaps there is a place for those mass market wines, but that’s not why I’ve spent twenty years in the wine industry.
Alternatively, I don’t aspire to be on the glossy cover of a wine magazine with a glass up to my nose, expounding about a quest to make the “best wine in the world.” I want to make good, grounded wines that provide pleasure and have a sense of place—wines that speak in a steady voice, neither mumbling nor shouting out their own virtues.
So, while I always aim to please, when you fly next, remember to bring your sunglasses—I’ll be keeping that window shade open.
Weatherborne Wine Corp
weatherborne.com | Instagram: Weatherborne | (707) 684-5299
Tasting room: 8750 Philo School Rd., Philo
Open Fri–Sat 12pm–5pm / Sun 11pm–4pm / by appointment
Cris Carter was born to an airline family in Santa Barbara, moved around the States, and then studied Viticulture & Enology at UC Davis, where he graduated in 2002.
Restoring New Zealand
Mendocino Native Wyatt Dooley Pursues Ecological Restoration on the Other Side of the Globe
by Holly Madrigal
There was a confluence of factors that led Mendocino native-son, Wyatt Dooley, to be living and working across the globe. “I studied environmental science at U.C. Santa Barbara, and a lot of my classes were based on the Channel Islands National Park. There is a ton of biodiversity there—they call it the Galapagos of the Northern Hemisphere. A lot of environmental degradation happened there over the years, and when the park service began working on ecological restoration, they hired a lot of New Zealanders to come over and do the work. That country has a lot of experts, specifically in the area of island restoration, whom I met while working there.”
Onetangi beach, Waiheke Island
Wyatt and I, in true modern fashion, are talking via Zoom across space and time. He describes the factors that brought him to Waiheke Island just off Auckland. “New Zealand has amazing surf, and I travel all over the world for that,” he laughs. “And conveniently, New Zealand used to be one of the easiest places an American could get a one-year working holiday. It was super easy because they have a huge wine industry and other farm work that allows a back-packing culture to provide a young labor pool.”
Wyatt met his girlfriend, Ruth, while on a surf trip in Nicaragua, then connected with her again while visiting her native New Zealand. He traveled back and forth to the States, working as an environmental consultant in Mendocino. All these factors wove together, with the result that he found himself flying down for a visit in December of 2019, luckily just missing the cut off when New Zealand decided to close its borders due to the pandemic.
Wyatt’s background in environmental restoration led him to seek work in that field. He lives with Ruth near white sand beaches and vineyards and commutes to the city each day. “It’s crazy. I can take a 35-minute ferry ride to the mainland and arrive at a city. It’s like a commute from a place like Mendocino to San Francisco with a 35-minute ferry ride … I think the job I have is the most interesting job in the world,” continues Wyatt. “I work for an Iwi (a Maori word similar to a tribe) called Ngāti Whātua Orākei, and there are just the most incredible opportunities and projects that we are working on.”
Like many places around the world, New Zealand was colonized by the British and Europeans, with many years of oppression and the theft of native of lands. The Ngāti Whātua’s ancestral lands, called Tāmaki Makaurau Te Ika-a-Māui, were essentially the area that is now Auckland. As with many indigenous cultures, there was no such thing as land ownership. But when the Europeans came, the iwi designated three thousand acres as a gift, which the Europeans promptly “sold” for millions of dollars, starting a process of dispossession. In the 1970s and 1980s, the government wanted to claim the last remaining bluff property to build high-end housing, and the Ngāti Whātua protested by occupying the land until the government relented. They were able to keep the land undeveloped, and for the past 20 years they have been been restoring the forest and opened it as a park for the public. They have an ethical code called mātāpono (values), one of which is kaitiakitanga, meaning guardianship of the earth. One of the guiding factors of the Ngāti Whātua Orākei is to restore and caretake the land. In 2018 they were given another section of land through treaty settlement, a hundred acres near downtown Auckland.
The iwi crafted a visual framework of their goals and engaged the kids and elders of the community to find out what they would like to see on this land. Wyatt explains, “The children, for example, wanted to see a summer camp on this property, so we’re helping design an educational wilderness camp. Others wanted hiking trails. One of the plans is to plant certain tree species that are used for carving Pou (similar to totem poles) and ngawaka (canoes), planting these trees now so that their descendants can harvest in a hundred or more years.”
“I work with Ngāti Whātua to help achieve these visions,” Wyatt elaborates. “One of the first projects was the native plant nursery, which is when I started in 2020. Our goal is to grow half a million plants a year, much of which will be planted on the property to restore the forest health, since many invasive plants have taken over.” Wyatt is amazed by how the organization works. “When the pandemic started, they immediately asked their members what they needed. They put together care packages with food and items, and each iwi member received one. They called every single person to make sure they were ok. What they found was that getting fresh food was an issue.”
This jump-started a whole new project called the Maara kai (vegetable garden). The Maori are historically amazing gardeners, and this area had been previously cultivated as a produce garden. They are restoring the historical use as a food garden and also providing educational opportunities to members that want to learn more. Wyatt helped to develop this garden and now it is providing weekly fresh produce bags. Anyone within the iwi can come pick up produce grown right outside their door.
greens from the garden
The vision of the Ngāti Whātua already held these values, but the pandemic boosted the efforts. “We started in August, and it was like, we gotta make this happen. And by October we were building garden beds, by November we were harvesting greens, and now we have harvested about 1500 kilos of produce and have given it all out for free to the local community.” He continues, “The foundation of my work is that it is all educational. It’s learning how to garden, or learning about your history, or doing research on native plants. They want it to become a destination where you can come and learn and thrive.” The fact that this property is so close to the city center makes it very accessible.
“I just did a presentation for 75 school teachers, bringing them to the site to show them what is happening on Ngāti Whātua. This was closed off in the past, but now it is a Maori-led project inviting the world to come and learn about all the projects that are happening, and figuring out how we can get students in here to experience this. We have two universities conducting research experiments here. You can come learn about drought tolerant native species of plants, for example.”
Wyatt describes New Zealand as similar to many other places in the world. As they became more capitalist-focused, its history was filled with extraction of resources, timber, mining, agriculture, dairy, and sheep. “Like Mendocino County, it started off as a timber industry, but the resources were extracted. Here in New Zealand, it is this crazy dense forest with incredibly high diversity. There are many specific species that are found nowhere else on the planet. The land was cleared for agriculture and other uses, but they started to lose their biodiversity—for instance, the Kiwi, which is now a threatened species. This country really stepped up to become experts in ecological restoration. Now so much of the economy is based on its beauty and natural resources.”
It is the coolest thing to be part of this work with the Ngāti Whātua. “It’s a living lab, a research center, and I get to be part of it.“ Wyatt is the only American on the team, and he laughs that it is weird hearing an American accent as we talk. “I am learning so much about strategic planning for generations. It is such a great thing to be a part of, learning that the quickest way to a goal is not always the best. For example, we have an invasive plant, privet, that just takes over. But rather than use chemicals to kill it, the Ngāti Whātua and most iwi believe that everything has Mauri, life-force to it. Everything has a family tree, and by using chemicals you are killing that lifeforce. You can’t kill the energy, even of this invasive species. When pondering this problem, they decided to cut and mulch the privet and inoculate them with edible mushrooms, introducing three native species of mushrooms to be a food source. “It does work, but we are continuing to trial it on a small scale. They are really trying to find unconventional solutions to these problems.”
Wyatt says he looks forward to coming back to Mendocino to visit and see family once the travel restrictions are lifted, but as it goes, he stays in touch with family and friends remotely. And he still has plenty of time to surf. He counts himself fortunate to be part of this meaningful work on the other side of the globe, supporting the Ngāti Whātua in realizing their vision of an intact ecosystem that educates as much as it nourishes.
Find out more at ngatiwhatuaorakei.com.
Holly Madrigal is a Mendocino County maven who loves to share the delights of our region. She’s fortunate to enjoy her meaningful work as the director of the Leadership Mendocino program and takes great joy in publishing this magazine.
Good Things Farm
Organic Flowers and Produce Grown Right Down the Street
by Holly Madrigal & Evan Peterson
At the far end of Chestnut Street in Fort Bragg, the pavement ends at the edge of the forest. There, on the urban fringe of Fort Bragg, sits Good Things Farm. Nestled in the shade is a handcrafted Farm Box which feels like a treasure chest when you peer inside. And that’s exactly what it is in a way, a treasure chest of hyper-local food.
Some neighbors hoped that word would not get out about the wonderful farm box at the end of Chestnut Street. But they want this wonderful couple, Evan Peterson and Kirsten Cesario, to be supported beyond this little corner of Fort Bragg. So we asked the farmers of Good Things Farm to tell us their story.
It’s just the two of us here on the farm. I am full time on the farm and my wife, Kirsten, is a full time, awesome, veteran middle school science teacher. We aim to have a diverse range of products, with harvest and planting times spread out through the year so we can handle the work.
We started fencing and planting in January 2018. Our idea was to have a biodiverse, in-town family farm that produces high quality, organically grown foods that are affordable and easily accessed by our neighbors and community. We really focus on soil health through intensive and voluminous composting. We use waste products from horse stables, tree trimmers, feed store spoiled hay and straw, and occasional brewery slops. I compost it for a year and then add it to the soil. We use no tractors, tillers, or chemicals.
Our focus right now is on the tree and perennial crops. We have planted about 150 fruit trees, and they will be in production soon. Also, strawberries, blackberries, and raspberries are such wonderful coastal crops. We have a lot of them and rely on them for income through the summer. Artichokes and asparagus have been successful, and we’ll be adding more to the farm this year.
Flowers! Flowers have been a success for us as well. We sell them throughout the season at Harvest Market and at the farm box. They really have increased the biotic action at our farm!
And we love our bees! This year we received a grant from the Good Farm Fund (a local nonprofit that supports the local food system with direct grants to farmers) to purchase more bees as well as electric fencing to protect the hives from bears. We hope to have honey and bees for sale next season.
The farm box came about sort of on its own. It started as a way for friends and neighbors to stop by and pick up eggs and veggies, and just kind of grew. Now, we rely on it for the bulk of our sales. It is based on the honor system—and it works! People are good. We rely on word of mouth and haven’t yet used advertising or social media. People seem to really enjoy the farm box. They get to come when they want, and get what they want. We keep it open all day, every day.
We attend the Fort Bragg Farmers Market (Wednesdays on Franklin Street near City Hall) for about half the year, when we have extra products to sell. This summer we can begin more interaction with our customers and neighbors through tours and hands-on experiences on the farm.
We are really proud that we provide protein year-round. We tend a flock of about 70 laying birds including a variety of chickens and ducks. We raise and harvest 12-15 pigs a year and make that available to our customers as a pork share (buying part of the animal ahead of time), or they can purchase meats out of the farm box that have been processed at the butcher.
We rely on our two Pyrenees guard dogs to protect the farm from exterior threats. They do a great job and are awesome, special animals. Of course, there is the obligatory barn cat, and we now have a small herd of milk goats that will be in milk in early summer through early winter.
We make all sorts of value-added specialties including pie, jam, and pesto. Our jams have flavors like strawberry, raspberry, blackberry, plum, peach, apple, and more. Pies are apple, pumpkin, and the very popular chicken pot pie. Our pesto is delicious and is a customer favorite.
This summer we will just keep charging ahead. One highlight is the fresh fruit, and we should have a nice mix of coastal produce available including greens of all types, beets, carrots, onions, garlic, and potatoes, as well as cucumbers, basil, and tomatoes from the greenhouse.
Fall changes our focus to apples, pears, fresh pressed juices, corn, beans, and winter squash.
The sheer amount of diversity Evan and Kirsten coax forth from their modest farm is staggering. Be sure to swing by the farm box to see what treasures are in store, or meet Evan at the Farmers Market in Fort Bragg on Wednesdays from 2-4 pm at the corner of Laurel and Franklin. You have to love it when a place can be described by such simple directions: Turn onto Chestnut from Highway One, and when you reach the end, Good Life will be waiting.
Good Things Farm
East End of Chestnut Street, Fort Bragg
GoodThingsFarm.com
Fresh-Caught Rockfish
Richard and Corinne Thornton, owners of Anchor Charter Boats
While there are lots of ways to play at the edges of the ocean here in Mendocino County, there are fewer opportunities to get out on it, away from the land, atop that vast expanse of blue. With Anchor Charter Boats in Noyo Harbor, you not only spend half a day out among the beautiful waves, but you can also come home with dinner. From May through December, the charter company offers half-day trips where guests of all ages and experience levels climb aboard with high hopes of returning with a haul of rockfish.
Many different types of rockfish can be found in the waters beyond Noyo Harbor. Some live along the ocean floor in shallower intertidal areas to depths exceeding 1000 feet, while others live at midwater levels. Many weigh in at 3 lbs, but they can exceed a hefty 40 lbs. The company claims a 90% chance of coming back with a catch. Boat guests can each bring home a maximum of 10. The fish possesses a rich, nutty flavor with just a hint of sweet, making it particularly versatile for all sorts of recipes.
Company owners Richard and Corinne Thornton make the excursions a fun and relaxing outing for everyone. Be sure to dress warmly—summer mornings on the coast are typically in the 40s when it’s all aboard at 6:30am. The bonus? A stunning sunrise over the ocean. The trip is usually 5 hours, and you never know what you’re going to catch. Besides rockfish, you might pull up a halibut, an octopus, a wolf eel, or even a box crab. You might even win the fish pool, where each guest throws in $5 and the biggest haul by weight wins it all.
One hazard of the open water is motion sickness, so Corinne recommends taking a motion sickness pill the evening before and the morning of your voyage. Then prepare to make new friends, enjoy the wide open sea, catch some fish, and possibly fall in love with your new favorite pastime.
Two happy guests display the Rockfish they caught.
Fish & Chips
When Corinne gets a chance to get out of the office and onto the waves, she loves to prepare her rockfish with a classic fish & chips recipe, using the Sea Harvest Fry Mix, available in 5 lb bags at Harvest Market in Fort Bragg.
Ingredients
1.5-2 c Sea Harvest Fry Mix
1 bottle dark beer
Spices and herbs of your choice (oregano, chinese five spice, or garam masala, for example)
2 lbs fresh fish fillets, skin removed
Peanut oil for frying
Instructions
Add Sea Harvest Fry Mix, herbs and spices of your choosing, and beer into a medium bowl. Mix until the consistency of pancake batter. Cut fish into serving sizes, then heat the peanut oil in a deep pan to 375°. Coat fish pieces well with the batter.
Using tongs, slowly add pieces of fish to the oil, allowing the oil to recover its heat after each addition before adding more. Keep the temperature around 350°. Fry until fish pieces are golden brown. Remove fish with a slotted spoon or strainer and drain on a plate with paper towels. Peek inside to confirm the fish is cooked through. Serve with lemon, tartar sauce, and some fresh chips for the ultimate reward after your day on the waves!
Anchor Charter Boats
32450 N. Harbor Dr., Fort Bragg
(707) 964-4550 | AnchorCharterBoats.com
Photo credit for ocean: Elizabeth Lies of unsplash
Other images courtesy of Anchor Charter Boats
Mendocino County Prescribed Burn Association
Harnessing Fire to Manage California’s Forests
by Michael Jones, PhD
On a warm sunny day in February of last year, I joined a small group of property owners and community members that had gathered to help a landowner manage a thicket of Himalayan blackberry. The thorny branches were choking out native oaks and riparian vegetation along a small drainage. We set fire to the thicket using a drip torch and watched as 15-foot flames shot out, listening to the hiss and crackle as the fire spread through the thick vegetation. This was the first prescribed burn of the Mendocino County Prescribed Burn Association (PBA).
Fire is an important natural disturbance that has shaped the flora and fauna of California. Periodic fires—naturally ignited or intentionally burned by Native Americans—helped maintain the structure, composition, and health of many of California’s ecosystems for thousands of years. But with European settlement, traditional use of prescribed fire ceased and, with the advent of the fire suppression era, there was even an attempt to control naturally ignited wildfires. But 100 years of fire suppression has increased a build-up of vegetation and reduced the health of our ecosystems.
With seemingly more destructive wildfires occurring in recent years, what fire ecologists and Native Americans had been saying all along was finally recognized: fire is an inevitable and important part of the California ecosystem. And prescribed fire is an incredibly powerful tool that can help us sustainably manage our forests and natural resources and prepare for future wildfires.
Prescribed fire is the use of fire under predetermined conditions to achieve specific objectives. It can be integrated with other management activities to help reduce wildfire hazards around communities, manage fuels, restore ecosystem health after a century of fire suppression, decrease vegetation, enhance wildlife habitat, improve rangeland, and manage forests.
In the 1980s, Cal Fire initiated the Vegetation Management Program, an attempt by the agency to expand the use of prescribed burns on private lands. The program was initially very successful, with thousands of acres burned every year, but changes in funding caused the program to wane. While the program has since been re-worked, there was still a need for other options that could help private landowners and managers use prescribed fire.
In 2018, my colleagues from U.C. Cooperative Extension Humboldt—Lenya Quinn-Davidson, Fire Advisor, and Jeff Stackhouse, Livestock and Natural Resource Advisor—introduced the concept of the Prescribed Burn Association to California, with the formation of the Humboldt County PBA, the first PBA in the west.
A PBA is a loosely organized group of community members working together to pool resources, knowledge, and experience to safely use prescribed fire as a management tool. This model had been successfully used in other parts of the country for many years, but under the West’s culture of fire suppression, it was assumed that only fire professionals should use fire as a tool. The introduction of this collaborative model has started to change that perception and is empowering California landowners and managers to bring fire back to the land.
By 2019, the success of our neighbors in Humboldt was well known in Mendocino County, and the local community was enthusiastic about developing a PBA. Our diverse habitats, ranging from coastal prairie/scrub, bishop pine forests, redwood and Douglas-fir forests, oak woodlands, to chaparral, are all fire adapted. It only seemed appropriate that we should build capacity for using prescribed fire to help manage them. So, following in my colleagues’ footsteps (and essentially copying everything they did), I pulled a group of active and engaged community members together, formed a steering committee, and initiated the Mendocino County PBA.
We have grown to over 100 members including property owners, land managers, Native American communities, ranchers, foresters, non-profit organizations, volunteer and professional fire fighters, retired fire fighters, county government, and other community members. We conducted several burns, including a 100-acre cooperative burn in chaparral and oak woodlands with the Sonoma County PBA, Good Fire Alliance. We also hosted a virtual Prescribed Burning 101 workshop that was attended by more than 100 people from throughout California.
As a new group, we are still growing and finding our footing (the COVID-19 pandemic certainly has not helped in that process). Our goal is to continue expanding our capacity to provide training, equipment, and labor, and to share experiences and knowledge that help the community safely use fire.
The amazing thing about being a part of the PBA community is the opportunity to gain hands-on experience and training with fire. For some in the community, their only prior experience with fire is the images they see of catastrophic wildfire and the sensational stories they hear about fires that destroyed forests, burned down homes, or, in the worst-case scenario, resulted in lives lost. So it is rather awesome to put a drip torch in somebody’s hand for the first time and have them put fire on the ground and realize that it’s different than the fire they have seen in the news. They see how prescribed fire can be used in a way that is safe and, perhaps, even fun.
There are no requirements to join the Mendocino County PBA. We welcome anyone from the community who is interested in using prescribed fire as a management tool or helping others implement prescribed fire. We do not require members to have any prior experience with prescribed fire, nor do we require members to own specialized fire equipment. Most of the time, the minimum required personal protective equipment is good boots, natural fiber long-sleeves and pants or Nomex, leather gloves, eye protection, and headwear. Most importantly, we conclude every burn with food and drink—enjoying the community we work so hard to protect.
To join or learn more about the Mendocino County PBA, e-mail mendopba@gmail.com. To learn more about prescribed burning in Mendocino County check out http://cemendocino.ucanr.edu/FireResources/PrescribedFire. To learn more about PBAs in California and the prescribed fire process, check out www.calpba.org.
Michael Jones is the U.C. Cooperative Extension Forest Advisor for Mendocino, Lake, and Sonoma counties. He is an entomologist by training and specializes in integrated management of forest pests. He also chairs the Mendocino County PBA.
To join or learn more about the Mendocino County PBA, e-mail mendopba@gmail.com. To learn more about prescribed burning in Mendocino County check out http://cemendocino.ucanr.edu/FireResources/PrescribedFire. To learn more about PBAs in California and the prescribed fire process, check out www.calpba.org.
Michael Jones is the U.C. Cooperative Extension Forest Advisor for Mendocino, Lake, and Sonoma counties. He is an entomologist by training and specializes in integrated management of forest pests. He also chairs the Mendocino County PBA.
Bubbles & Citrus for the Best Summer Sipping
This is perhaps the perfect refreshing sipper for summer afternoons. Tamar Kaye and Crispin Cain of Tamar Distillery whipped up this drink to show off their award-winning Russell Henry Malaysian Lime Gin, which received the “Best Flavored Gin in the World” distinction and Chairman’s Trophy from the 2020 Ultimate Spirits Challenge. The subtle lime zest and mineral flavors balance the slightly spicy ginger beer. The mint keeps everything cool and collected. Preferably sipped barefoot on a porch swing.
Malay Mojito
Muddle in a Collins glass
½ lime cut into wedges
4-5 mint leaves
Then add:
Ice
1-½ oz Russell Henry Malaysian Lime Gin
2 dashes Angostura Bitters
2 dashes Regan’s Orange Bitters
Fill with Reed’s Ginger Beer. Stir, sip, and enjoy!
Tamar Distillery
1110 Bel Arbres Rd, Redwood Valley | (707) 485-2068
Retail hours:Tue-Thurs Noon-5 / Fri Noon-6
Left Coast Seafood
Falling for Ukiah’s New Fish Find Hook, Line, and Sinker
by Holly Madrigal
Fresh caught lobster in decidedly inland Ukiah, California? Yes, please! Piles of the rich, opal-hued lobster top a buttery brioche bun with crunchy lettuce and a touch of aioli to complete the lobster roll. A mountain of shoestring fries somehow squeeze on the plate. Crustaceans are on my mind as I sit in the sunshine on the happening patio at Left Coast Seafood. Friends stop to say hi, but I can’t talk with my mouth full of my first ever (what can I say, I grew up in Willits) lobster roll.
“We fly that in fresh from Canada” says owner Matt Talbert. “Most everything we buy comes from the Left or West Coast. Our primary focus is our backyard of Ukiah, then Mendocino, and California. We want to support local and family businesses first. The seafood is made up of Pacific or Left Coast catch coming from mostly local fishing partners and stretching as far as Mexico to Canada,” he adds. Crab cakes, fried calamari, and a cioppino that will fill your soul as much as your belly are regulars on the menu.
“One of my best friends from Chicago, someone I have known since around the age of 8 and phenomenal chef, convinced me to move out to California in 2010. Every time he called to chat, he would say, ‘When are you coming out to the Left Coast?’ And so, the name was born for the restaurant.” The road to opening in the midst of a once in a lifetime pandemic was a heroic effort, supported by family and friends who lobbied Matt and his partner Magdalena (formerly McAvoy) to move back to where she grew up.
Back in January 2019, Matt and Magdalena were up from the Bay Area to visit her family. “We are at my father-in-law’s house when his friend and neighbor, Tom Liden, pops over. Tom is a huge advocate for anything Ukiah. He knows I’ve been in the restaurant business pretty much all my life and at a high level the last 10 plus years. He proceeds to tell me of a restaurant for sale in town. He says, ‘You should buy it and move up here to be closer to family.’”
The world had a very different outlook back then. They didn’t know it at the time, but within a year his wife would give birth to their third child, Miles. “Fast forward to Fourth of July weekend 2019. Magdalena and I are walking around downtown Ukiah and we walk past the restaurant space at 110 W Standley, the one Tom had been talking about. We spend the entire two-hour car ride home that night talking about what we would do in that space.” Matt remembers, “We spent the next five weeks putting together a business plan while I was working full time as the General Manager of Scoma’s, one of the largest single family-owned seafood restaurants in the country, with a new baby on the way and two other kids that want my undivided attention at home.”
The pair engaged an experienced culinary team: Executive Chef Julian Sandoval, Culinary Director Adina Leone, and Assistant General Manager and Bar Director Adam Rollo. “These are friends and family I have known most or all of my life that I love, respect, trust, and could not do without.”
One of Magdalena’s very good friends, Tawny Bailey, set them up with another great local figure in the community, Ian Powell. “We had a great instant connection. He is the genuine article and an absolute sweetheart of a human. He has deep roots in this community, with nothing but its best interests at heart. It was immediately apparent that he would be a phenomenal partner to share in this venture,” adds Matt. “We go into contract, then into escrow, then Covid hits! Bam! Now what? So, here we are, it’s the middle of March 2020, the pandemic closes everything.”
This pandemic has challenged everyone, but the hospitality industry has been some of hardest hit. Local businesses had literally poured everything they had into making a wonderful culinary destination, only to have an already high-risk business venture in complete free fall. “Through all this I found peace. I had the love of my family and the support of my partner, Magdalena. I slowed everything down and stopped and listened to the current of the universe. I felt connected to an energetic understanding that we were going to be okay and felt the direction of travel our lives were headed. I spoke to my team—“The Avengers,” as I like to call them, that I’d been assembling to run the restaurant with me—and to my investors and partners, and let them know we were going forward as planned. That this was the right decision, and we were moving to the right place at the right time to open this restaurant. Long story short, this is exactly what we did.”
Against all odds, surrounded by friends and family, they pulled off the unthinkable and opened a restaurant right in the middle of a pandemic. “Since we opened our doors on December 1, 2020, I still pinch and poke myself every day. I feel so grateful to have been able to curate my lifelong vision and dream of opening a restaurant.” Matt beams, adding, “This is such an amazing community of loving and kind people who care deeply about protecting and supporting their small businesses. The perfect example of this is, in our first two month in business, smack-dab in the middle of this pandemic, we had local non-seafood fans stopping by the restaurant to buy something to give to someone else, just to support our new business.“
I can attest that the menu includes something for everyone. Consider the housemade mushroom ravioli. The savory filled pasta is smothered in fresh cherry tomatoes and basil. Matt recommends the Surf and Turf as well, though I was at my capacity for this visit. It has a full lobster tail with slow roasted ribs bathed in a red wine reduction. The decadence of that meal would please a king. I took note because I have friends that do not love seafood but enjoy an excellent meal. The short ribs paired with truffle mashed potatoes would fit the bill for those without sealegs.
Left Coast has also joined a neighborhood that often competes for the Excellence in Beverage category. Cultivo next door is known for their local beers on tap, and at the end of the block, Patrona mixes up some amazing drinks. Left Coast joins the party by crafting a menu of specialty cocktails that makes my mouth water. The El Jefe has roasted poblano-infused Herradero tequila, cactus-hibiscus agave, and fresh lime juice. The Sungrown Smash balances Angel’s Envy Rye Whiskey with a house made ginger honey shrub, mint, grilled persimmons, and fresh apple cider. All the options seem ideal for a hot summer afternoon!
“What a journey it’s been to get here,” says Matt. “I’m so excited for the rest of the adventure and for the world to come back into a place where we all feel connected to each other again.” As the summer nights get longer, be sure to grab a table under the stars and sip a cocktail as you dig into your fresh caught Fish ‘n’ Chips. If you close your eyes, maybe you can imagine the sound of the waves.
Left Coast Seafood & Marketplace
110 W Standley St, Ukiah
(707) 380-8392 | LeftCoastSeafoodCa.com
Summer hours: Tues–Thurs 11am – 8pm, Sat 4pm–9pm
Shelter Cove Avocados
Growing a Tropical Treasure in the Northern Wilds of Humboldt
by Holly Madrigal
Cape Mendocino, just up the Lost Coast from Shelter Cove, forms the elbow of the state. The westernmost point of the contiguous U.S., this little town grips the coastline, a landing strip running end to end because many residents continue to fly in to fish, surf, or relax within view of the craggy cliffs. Shelter Cove is south facing, despite the general illusion that the coastline so blue on the horizon is to the west. The area is known for fish, forestry, and cannabis, but its hidden secret is a surprising crop—avocados.
The challenge of growing what is considered a sub-tropical plant on the foggy northern California coast did not deter Trent Sanders. As a longtime resident of Shelter Cove, Trent had his attention piqued by a neighbor. “There is a house down by the beach with a huge avocado tree, and it was an inspiration to me. It must be 30 or 40 years old. I saw that growing and thought, what the hell, that thing is huge! You can grow avocados here!”
Trent speaks with the rapid-fire speech of someone whose mind goes a mile a minute. His youth belies an extensive knowledge of growing and landscaping. His dog Winston explores at our feet as we tour the orchard. Trent originally started with two small trees. “I planted these near my house, and they almost didn’t make it. The first two or three years they just looked horrible. They were really struggling. I almost cut them out two or three times, but once we put the lawn in around them and built up the topsoil, they took off. They really want that regular consistent water and lots of food.” He planted thirty more, terraced near the house, and then bought another ninety and planted them on a lot across the street from his stunning hillside home. Trent now tends about 130 avocado trees in an area no bigger than an acre. He bought these from a commercial grower in Fallbrook, near San Diego. They said, “You’re crazy! Avocados won’t grow in Northern California,” Trent recalls. But when they learned he was in Shelter Cove, the grower said it just might work. He had heard of the microclimate up there. “We believe this is the farthest north orchard in California. It’s all small subdivided lots up here, no flat acreage. So those who are growing are on hillsides and terraces.”
This sleepy town of 850 is as out of the way as you can get, about an hour and a half from the nearest larger town of Redway on Highway 101. Many people come to this corner of Humboldt County for the fishing. A lone surfer catches breaks in the cove, and the local brewery, Gyppo Ale Mill, serves up tasty brews to locals and the hikers reaching the end of the Lost Coast trail, none of them aware that, less than a mile from the water is an avocado orchard tucked in amongst the fir trees. “They don’t like it hot, they don’t like it cold. They like that medium, Santa Barbara-like weather. They are finicky bastards,” Trent laughs. “For how far north we are, they do amazing.”
A low ridge separates us from the ocean, and Trent says that the small ridge tends to deflect most of the strong wind. This hillside forms a bit of a sunbelt. In fact, the sun is shining down as we look past the orchard to the Lost Coast cliffs in the distance.
Trent describes how to create the ideal conditions. ”You want to plant them in the spring because they need the whole season to get their roots in. They don’t have a big tap root, they tend to have a web-ball of superfine roots. They want regular water but not too much. They love the rockier and well drained soil. I planted mine about 9 feet apart, closer than the 15 feet usually recommended for fruit trees. I planted the citrus first then added the avocados in a grid around them.”
Avocados are botanically a berry with a single large seed surrounded by buttery flesh. Satsumas, meyer lemons, and orange trees are laden with fruit next to the dark green foliage of the Haas, Reed, and Lamb Hass avocado varietals. “They say the Mexicolas are good for cooler climates but I prefer the Haas. They just have excellent flavor, and that other variety never worked that well here.” Haas avocados are the most common cultivar. (Geek note: All Hass avocados are descendants of a single “Mother Tree” planted by a mail carrier in La Habra Heights.) Avocados can self pollinate, but Trent recommends growing a couple of Zutanos to help with pollination. “The trees are an A and B type. The flowers all open at different times, so if all the blossoms of one Haas tree are open, you want a good pollinator tree nearby. It will increase the yield.” So for every twenty fruiters, you want to plant one Zutano pollinator.
Trent tends his corner of Eden, filling the yard and orchard with diversity. “This hedge here is pineapple guava, that fence line over there is passionfruit.” Trent easily climbs up the low hanging branches and grabs a few ripe fruits. “These Zutanos get a dusty, matte color, and they ripen green. The Haas turn black when they are ready. There is lots of fruit on this one too, even though it is a pollinator,” he says as he plucks the fruit. “You can harvest at your leisure. The fruit sets in April or May. They have these tiny little BB-sized fruits in April, then by August or September it grows to about the size of a golf ball. They will get to regular avocado size, but you can let it hang a whole other year before you pick it and it will just get creamier.” The little trees produce 30-50 each year, but they hang so they are not all ripe at once. Trent sells them at farmers markets in Arcata and in town.
It seems nothing short of a miracle to be standing in an avocado orchard here at the edge of Humboldt County, but Trent shows that it can really be done. His enthusiasm for the fruit is contagious, making even moderate gardeners want to give it a shot. He has a friend that grew an avocado from a grocery store seed sprouted on the windowsill, so who knows. Perhaps there is local guacamole in our future after all.