Delicious Little Coconut
Spice Up Your Festivities with Vegan Coquito
by Erica Schneider
Creamy, tropical, and cozy all at the same time, Coquito (“little coconut”) is a traditional Puerto Rican Christmas cocktail. Made with coconut milk, rum, and warming spices, our version is reminiscent of eggnog, but without the eggs or dairy.
At Fog Eater, we use four types of coconut milk to really get that island taste. Some traditional recipes use evaporated and/or sweetened condensed dairy milk, which might be easier to find at your local market (though we easily found the coconut versions in Fort Bragg). If you do switch up milks, make sure to taste and adjust sugar accordingly!
Use your favorite Puerto Rican rum—we used a spiced variety for this recipe to give it even more Christmas warmth, but golden, white, or even a blend would be lovely.
Fog Bottle Shop & Wine Bar
45104 Main Street, Mendocino
(707) 397-1806 | fogeatercafe.com
Open Wed - Sun 12pm - 7pm
Coquito
INGREDIENTS
2 cans (13.5oz each) full-fat coconut milk
2 cans (5.4oz each) coconut cream
1 can (7.4oz) sweetened condensed coconut milk
1 can (12.2oz) evaporated coconut milk
2 cinnamon sticks
1 star anise
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon nutmeg
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon ground allspice
1/4 teaspoon ground clove
3 tablespoons brown sugar
2 tablespoons vanilla extract
2 cups spiced rum
INSTRUCTIONS
Combine the milks, spices, and sugar in a pot and bring to a light simmer, then cut the heat. Allow to cool a bit, then add the vanilla and rum. Chill overnight, then remove the cinnamon sticks and star anise. If you have the time and self-restraint, Coquito tastes best if allowed to sit for a couple of days before drinking. Heat (if you want), pour it into your most festive glass, and top with a sprinkle of cinnamon or, if you’re fancy, a cinnamon stick.
Erica Schneider is co-owner of Fog Eater Cafe and Fog Bottle Shop. She creates incredible vegan dishes for her patrons. She and her cat live in a little cottage by the sea when they are not out foraging in the wilds of the Mendocino coast.
Photo by istock.com
Grant’s Goodies
A Young Entrepreneur’s Ready-to-Bake Cookie Dough
by Holly Madrigal
When Grant Fisher, age 15, decided he wanted to start his own business a year ago, he thought about what he enjoyed doing. Baking and cooking for family and friends came immediately to mind, but he took that a step further, considering what he might be able to offer at the farmers market that wasn’t already there. He hit upon an idea: cookies. But not just cookies. He realized that frozen, readyto- bake, prepared cookie dough balls could work. “I thought it would make it easier for people to have them all ready to go, all balled up,” says Grant. “This is not Tollhouse from Safeway,” he adds. “My cookies are mostly organic, made with quality ingredients, and they change with the seasons.” It means that customers can pick up a bag and get to enjoy the heavenly aroma of baking cookies at home, no mixing or dirty dishes required.
Grant and his two older brothers were homeschooled just outside Willits by their mom, Evelyn Fisher. His idea germinated from an online entrepreneurial program that he was enrolled in. The final project of this business course was to think up a marketable idea and to implement the plan to create a functioning business. It was a semester-long course that included the steps of outlining a business plan, obtaining a business license, securing liability insurance, and considering all the things that are needed to operate. Safe to say that Grant passed his course with flying colors.
It is not just a matter of making cookie dough, of course. Because the product is frozen and includes eggs, Grant needed to utilize a commercial kitchen. The Grange Kitchen in Willits was a location he could rent by the hour to mix, prepare, and freeze the dough. Then he would come back the next day to package the cookie dough balls into 15-count bags. He was required to get a food handlers permit and to complete the paperwork to be a vendor at the farmers market, and he quickly learned that the farmers market requires payment of a stall fee in addition to 10% of sales.
Once business logistics were figured out, Grant turned his attention to the cookie recipes. After trying many variations, he narrowed down what he wanted to offer: a rotating menu of four seasonally-inspired flavors. “I was inspired by a chocolate chip cookie recipe from Alton Brown, but then I altered it to make it my own,” says Grant. “Honestly this is the best chocolate chip cookie I have tasted,” says his mother, Evelyn. “And I know he’s my kid, but it is really true. It’s the best gooey chocolate chip ever.”
Oatmeal Raisin and Peanut Butter soon joined the lineup. Around Valentine’s Day, he adds a Chocolate Crinkle, and for the winter holidays you may find a Peppermint Chocolate. In the early summer, he makes a Matcha Mint Chocolate Chip, and customers have been clamoring for that one. The green-hued cookies are not too minty—a refreshing sweet treat. Grant tries to make sure customers know what they’re buying, noting that, “I bake up some cookies for samples, for customers to try before they buy the ones to take home.”
Grant’s Goodies have been a hit at the market, both for eating at home and for giving as gifts. Local teacher Paula Abajian gave cookie bundles to her co-workers last year. “All the teachers loved the frozen cookies I got them, and it’s supporting a great kid,” Paula shared.
Grant wasn’t sure if people would be interested in baking cookies in the height of summer when the market was at its busiest, but people started buying the frozen cookie dough balls and eating them before they made it home! Owner of Schanachie Pub and Flying Dog Pizza, Pete Swanton, is a big fan, admitting, “I ate most of the bag before I made it to my driveway!”
The business continues to be a learning experience for Grant. He notes that the past year required lots of investment, as he needed to buy equipment and supplies.
He didn’t lose money, but he is looking forward to earning more of a profit now that he has learned the ropes. Still a year away from getting his driver’s license, the use of the Grange kitchen requires both scheduling around the other vendors and working with his mom’s availability to chauffeur him.
To that end, Grant’s family has a plan to build a commercial kitchen at their house so that Evelyn won’t be required to drive him to town. His father, Adrian, is a builder, so they have the skills and resources to make this happen. “If we can set up a certified kitchen at home, I would be interested in reaching out to Mariposa Market or Harvest Market to see if they would like to sell my cookie dough,” says Grant. He also has other ideas for the future. “I would like to attend other markets too, but until I can drive myself, I will be selling at the Willits farmers market. It would be fun to sell cookies at festivals and other venues.“
Currently, Grant has the permit for selling at one market. If he expands to multiple farmers markets, the cost goes up significantly, so he is weighing his options for future business opportunities. He markets his cookies on Facebook and Instagram, sharing what flavors are on deck for that week’s market. “I make them. You bake them” is his motto.
For now, if you are in Willits on Thursdays, be sure to stop by and grab some cookie dough for snacking on the road, or to bake in your oven at home. Let us know if it is really the best gooey chocolate chip cookie ever. I have it on good authority that it is.
Grants Goodies – Grant Fisher, Cookie Master
Willits Farmers Market: Thursdays 3 - 6pm
90 S Main St, Willits (former Rexall parking lot)
Grants Goodies on Facebook IG grants.goodies
Photos by Holly Madrigal and courtesy of Grant’s Goodies.
Craft House Baking
Creative Custom Cakes from a Willits Kitchen
by Maryann Grunseth
Growing up, Jackie Cobbs, owner of Craft House Baking, did not have a love of baking. “I think I tried making chocolate chip cookies a few times, messed that up, and was banned from trying again,” says Jackie with a laugh. It was only later in life, when her gluten and dairy intolerances became more pronounced, that Jackie turned to baking cakes to satisfy her sweet tooth and to create birthday cakes for her two sons, Henry and Marshal, and her husband, Kale.
From looking at her epic confectionery creations, you would not know that these splendid inventions (cakes, cupcakes, tarts, macarons, and croquembouches) were born out of necessity. Jackie’s love of cooking is evident. Creativity and experimentation took the place of any formal pastry education. While Jackie does not want to be pigeonholed as a gluten- and dairy-free baker, her extensive menus prove that she can craft a dessert for both discerning palates and restrictive diets.
Jackie launched Craft House Baking in 2022 after being told at a family event for the umpteenth time, “You should sell your cakes.” So she gave it a go, applied for a Cottage Food Permit, and set up Facebook and Instagram pages. Word spread, and the orders started coming in. About a year later, when both her boys were in school, Jackie took to baking full-time. She appreciates that her cakes let her be a part of other families’ celebrations. She shared that while most of her requests are from moms for their children’s birthday parties, she has received some novelty orders, including boob- and cannabis-shaped cakes.
When asked how Mendocino County inspires her, she says, “People in Mendocino County have a laid-back, classic style, and I feel like my cakes have that look.” She adds, “I bake everything from scratch, and people around here appreciate that.” Jackie’s work marries the homemade taste of a sponge cake with extravagant and detailed decoration that includes everything from space kittens (for her son Marshal’s birthday last year) to elegant wedding and celebratory cakes with fruit and drips. Her favorite flavor combinations include a matcha cake with passion fruit curd, as well as the classic chocolate and peanut butter.
“I have never considered myself a perfectionist, but with cakes I am,” shares Jackie. Each cake can take three to six hours to mix, bake, assemble, and decorate. When asked about some of the challenges that come with opening and operating her business, she shared that the bumpy country road out from her family’s property has made transporting cakes a little more eventful. Additionally, she and her family live off-grid, and that comes with its own challenges.
In the fall and winter of 2023, Jackie entered the Greatest Baker, an online baking competition run by TV personality and cake baker, Buddy Valastro. The competition ran through February 2024, and the public cast their vote daily for their favorite local baker based on the photos posted each week. The prize for first place was an article in Bake from Scratch magazine and $10,000.
Though she didn’t win, Jackie made it to the quarterfinals, competing against the top 1% of contestants, including many bakers who have been in the business for decades. Jackie appreciated the experience, reflecting, “It’s been great putting myself out there, trying to toot my own horn. It is not something I am great at, and it has pushed me outof my comfort zone.” This willingness to try new things, combined with her self-taught baking chops and endless creativity, makes the future of Craft House Baking look pretty sweet.
Custom orders start around $75 for a 6-inch round. To place an order, call Jackie directly at 707-272-3523. Insta & Facebook: @crafthousebaking
During the day, Maryann serves as a nonprofit fundraising consultant. In her spare time, she enjoys hiking, cooking, and taking in the beauty of Northern California.
Photos courtesy of Craft House Baking. Jackie image by Maureen Jennison
Fairall’s Farm Goods
Luscious Jams and Decadent Baked Treats Right Off the Truck
by Terry Ryder
Amanda Fairall is an excellent ambassador for her jams and other products. Her logo declares that her jams are “Jam packed with love,” and after meeting her at the Willits Farmers Market, I can easily believe that is true. I found an enthusiastic Amanda in the serving window of her cheerful blue food truck. Signage on the truck reads, “Preservin’ & Servin’ Local Flavor” and “Celebrating Mendocino County Agriculture.” In between serving her customers, she answered my questions and told me a little about her business.
It all started in 2005, when she joined the Redwood Valley Farmers Market to sell “bumper” (excess to her family’s needs) eggs and produce. In 2011, Amanda added jams and relishes to her offerings. She thought jam would enlarge the reach of her business and provide an opportunity to indulge in the flavor-tinkering that she loves to do. The jams serve as bases for some of her food truck specials like Ginger Plum Chicken, and she serves her berry jam with French toast fingers made from sourdough focaccia.
A huge fan of experimental cooking, Amanda is always coming up with new flavor combinations—a habit that has become one of her strongest selling points. She has come a long way from unadorned eggs and vegetables. I tasted her Cherry Port Jam, incorporating Barra dessert wine and lemon; the Zesty Pear Relish, featuring rosemary, hot peppers, and cider vinegar; the Chow Chow Relish, with red onion, cabbage, heirloom tomatoes, and both sweet and hot peppers; and Apricot Mango with Peppers. The relishes are very snappy and would be a great addition to a grazing table with any cheese platter. And the jams would level-up your morning atop a slice of your favorite toasted bread. Some other jam names that piqued my interest were Apricot Boysenberry, Whiskey Apple Pie, Strawberry Balsamic, Blueberry Rhubarb, and Saucy Blackberry with Zinfandel.
Jams come in both 8 ounce jars and smaller “sampler size” 1.5 ounce jars, which make great gifts and can be bought in larger quantities for weddings or other special occasions, complete with custom labeling. “Spread the Love” or other words of your choice can deliver your desired message, though a lead time is required to accommodate the custom printing. Special Samplers sets include “chocolate lovers,” “champagne lovers,” “wine lovers”—you get the idea.
There are other products like puffed corn (gluten free with no hulls) in wild flavors like Bourbon Bacon, Pumpkin Spice, and Cinnamon French Toast. Amanda is always looking for new taste sensations. She loves to search online then put together a bit of this with a bit of that in unlikely but entirely delicious ways.
Fairall’s is definitely a family affair, with her 19-year-old son working the food truck, her husband, the jack-of-all-trades who keeps everything in working order, and her 7-year-old helping out any way he can. I noticed that kids at the market were very attracted to the food truck, and while their parents might have been buying jam, they were more interested in the banana bread with chocolate chips. There is even a chocolate, chocolate bread (yes, 2 times chocolate that actually has 3 different kinds of chocolate chips). Fairall’s bakes boldly and does not shy away from truly over-the-top deliciousness. Amanda told me, “I don’t sell anything that I don’t eat. I grow what I can and shop from the farmers market for other ingredients whenever I can.” As the manager of the Redwood Valley Farmers Market, she is very sympathetic to market vendors.
You can find Fairall’s Farm jam on Etsy and also locally at the Redwood Valley, Willits, Fort Bragg, and Ukiah farmers markets. With her trusty food truck, she also does special events like the Ukiah Summer Music Concerts, Laytonville Craft Fair, “Arker Day’’ at the Anderson Valley Brewery, and the annual Pumpkin Festival. She also caters by special arrangement.
When it was time to go, I asked her if the business was her full-time job. She laughed and told me that she had gotten up at 3 AM that morning to bake the goodies on offer in her food truck that day. It is very full-time, but she loves the opportunity to evolve and grow as a cook—developing the skills that have built her business—and she wouldn’t have it any other way.
Fairall’s Farm Food Wagon can be found at Redwood Valley, Willits, Fort Bragg, and Ukiah farmers markets. Find details at MCFarm.org.
Photos by Terry Ryder
Terry Ryder Sites lives in Yorkville with 4 cats and 1 husband. A graduate of Ringling Brothers Barnum and Bailey Clown College, she writes a weekly column for the Anderson Valley Advertiser.
Sunshine’s Confections
Organic Interpretations of Chocolate Bar Classics
by Torrey Douglass
Sometimes all you need to turn your day around is a bite of something lusciously sweet, a decadent indulgence that revs your previously sputtering engine and gets you back on the road. In moments like those, you can do no better than to seek out Sunshine at the Willits or Ukiah farmers markets.
True to their name, Sunshine brings a little light into people’s lives. Their farmers market tent includes offerings to refresh and nurture: herbal tinctures, a seasonally-inspired drink, and a delightful selection of hand crafted chocolate creations based on—and much better than—the standard big-name candy bars you usually find in the grocery store check-out aisle.
The herbal remedies, both single herb and formulas, are created with herbs grown on the farm outside of Willits where Sunshine lives. Produced under the name Medicinal Allies, they are designed to aid with sleep, respiratory issues, reproductive concerns, stress, immune strength, and more. Besides the tinctures, many of the blends also utilize “succus,” or fresh juice of the herb, and are preserved with alcohol.
“I’m very blessed to live with people who have a lot of herbal and farming knowledge,” Sunshine remarks. Those herbs can show up in the seasonal beverages Sunshine sells—refreshing quenchers like Raspberry Limeade or Rose Lemonade in the summer (both sweetened with maple syrup), and warming drinks during the colder months like hot chocolate or wild mushroom tea. Chocolate confections can seem like an incongruous addition into the herbally-inspired mix until Sunshine explains, “I’ve always had a sweet tooth. I feel like it’s really important to have a balance of things to help cleanse the body and make it stronger, and to be able to indulge in things that bring us joy.”
Created under the name “Sunshine’s Confections,” the chocolate treats are inspired by the classic candy bars we all grew up with. There’s the “Snickers” option: date nougat topped with peanut maple caramel, sweetened with maple syrup and local honey and using 70% semi-sweet chocolate chips. The “Twix” equivalent has almond meal and coconut flour shortbread with a maple syrup caramel on top. And the “Butterfinger” doppelganger uses crushed-up cornflakes sweetened with organic fruit, caramel from maple and coconut sugar and coconut oil, and organic peanut butter. Every bar is frozen before it’s dipped in chocolate and graced with a topping like sea salt or bee pollen.
At a recent gathering, a particularly busy farmer was overheard praising Sunshine’s chocolates for putting some spring back in her step at the end of an especially hectic couple of weeks. Since almost all the ingredients are organic and only alternative natural sweeteners are used, these delicacies are ideal for satisfying the hankering for something sweet without corn syrup or other processed sugars.
“Because I like to make a lot of different things, the farmers market is a natural choice for me,” shares Sunshine. And their booth does indeed offer all sorts of creations, from the herbal remedies, to feminist zines, to vulvas handcrafted from felt (in case you misplaced yours someplace and need a new one). But no matter what brings you to Sunshine’s table, you’d be missing out on some joy—and some extra rev in your engine—if you left without one of their magnificent chocolate confections.
Sunshine’s Confections are available at Willits and Ukiah farmers markets. For more of Sunshine’s work, visit them on instagram: @medicinal_allies
Photo by Lama Nasser-Gammett
Starving Fire and Building Homes
How Round Pole Construction Can Improve Forests, Create Jobs, and Shelter Humans
by Torrey Douglass
When Colin Gillespie moved to Mendocino County in 1998, he encountered a lot of people looking to thin small diameter trees from their land to increase sunlight and decrease fire risk. At the time, he was shifting away from landscaping work, which included simple construction projects like fencing and gazebos. He moved into more traditional construction, which, combined with his lifelong enthusiasm for ecological healing and sustainability, gave rise to a compelling curiosity around natural building.
A period of deep learning followed. A forestry class in Nova Scotia at Wind Horse Farm broadened Colin’s perspective, teaching him how to utilize poles from small trees to make bridges, siding, barrels, and more. He came away understanding that pretty much any tree, of any size, species, or grade, could be made into something useful.
A cob workshop at Heartwood Institute in 1999 introduced Colin to expert natural builder Michael Smith, who quickly became a mentor. As his apprentice, Colin helped Michael host workshops at Emerald Earth, an intentional community outside of Boonville, sharing time-tested building practices that employ straw bales, cob (a mixture of clay and straw), and other natural materials. A land care workshop with Native American forester Dennis Martinez proved to be formative as well. “He really clarified for me how much the landscape has changed in the last 100 -150 years,” shares Colin. “He made a strong case for removing small trees from the forest and returning good fire practices to the land.” Devising a construction approach that removes and utilizes these small diameter trees became a personal and professional mission.
In 2014, Colin partnered with Eric Lassotovitch, a licensed building contractor, woodworker, and homesteader, to start Polecraft Solutions. Together they refined their own building style, combining round pole timber framing with natural infill for the walls between the posts. Developing techniques for attaching two round poles together posed challenges, forcing them to look to Colonial, Japanese, and Old English timber framing styles to research different methods of joinery. Mostly they use mortise and tenon joints, typically an intricate and time-consuming effort, though they’ve halved the production time by investing in a Lucas Mill and developing custom attachments to speed up the process.
In a Polecraft Solutions structure, the vertical round poles are visible inside, separated by walls usually made from straw bales coated in earthen plaster. Colin explains, “If you’re going to spend a lot of time in a building, it has to feel good. Showing the superstructure lends itself to feeling safe and sturdy.” He asserts that the homes they build can cost less than conventional construction, provided the design is simple and considerate of bale dimensions. Homeowners can also find peace of mind in the fact that straw bale construction surpasses the 2-hour exposure fire safety standard for residential buildings, a significant benefit in our wildfire-prone region. Their superior insulative properties make them exceptionally energy efficient as well, translating into future savings by reducing heating and cooling costs.
To further reduce project expense, Polecraft Solutions sells pole frame kits that are pre-approved by engineers, streamlining permitting since the plans utilize structural elements already accepted by the county’s building department. The kits use Colin and Eric’s hallmark design, a saltbox round pole timber frame structure with straw bale infill covered with thick earthen plaster. The easy-to-expand structures start at 1000 square feet in size.
The research and development for the kits was funded in part through a grant given to the Forest Reciprocity Group (FRG), a project of Cloud Forest Institute (CFI), a nonprofit focused on environmental education and forest restoration. As it says on their website, FRG was formed to “collaborate with First Nations, land-owners, and local and state agencies in the sales and utilization of materials thinned from forest improvement projects for value added timber frame homes, and many other meaningful products.” Both Colin and Eric are members. FRG recognizes that by thoughtfully removing a portion of the Douglas fir trees in a section of forest, competition for water, sunlight, and soil nutrients is reduced, allowing the remaining trees to thrive.
CFI Co-Founder Jenny Burnstad explains further, “The big trees stay to sequester carbon, while the trees that cause crown fires are thinned. You do it gradually so you can observe what’s going on in the forest. We don’t just take—you have to be sensitive to the ecology, to what’s happening to the animals.” She emphasizes that the point is protection, not extraction. In other words, the health of the forest takes precedence above harvesting Doug fir for profit.
The fact that young Doug fir trees are so abundant, on top of being excellent building material, means their removal can solve multiple problems at once—making our forests more fire-safe, creating forestry and construction jobs, and providing affordable, comfortable, fire resilient, and energy efficient homes. FRG is in conversation with Habitat for Humanity to explore collaboration opportunities, and the group is continually applying for grants to help them share knowledge with builders, property owners, and others about the value inherent in the thinned poles. One project in development involves working with youth of the Pinoleville tribe to build an earth lodge at a site where teachers and students of traditional skills such as basketry and medicinemaking can be protected from the sun and rain.
According to Jenny, there are many local organizations doing similar work. Esteemed elder John Cunnan has been teaching pole furniture making at workshops and in schools for many years. The Northern Mendocino Ecosystem Recovery Alliance was formed to foster fire resilience and responsible land care, while the Tribal EcoRestoration Alliance provides trainings in forest restoration. Wanosh Forest Gardens in Willits offers a variety of natural building workshops. The Eel River Recovery Project has a number of forest restoration grants in the works that will include significant thinning, resulting in an excellent source for Doug fir.
Ongoing research and activism like this can help California address critical challenges like wildfire danger and a lack of housing. With cooperation and creativity, it is possible to improve forest health while reducing wildfire risk and building safe, cozy homes for people.
Find out more about Polecraft Solutions and how to purchase their Salt Box Design Single Family Dwelling at PoleCraftSolutions.com.
Learn about improving forest health as well as events like workshops and talks at ForestReciprocity.org.
Paysanne
Boonville’s Tiny Ice Cream Shop Serves Up Real Sweet Things
by Addia Williams
Anderson Valley locals tend to refer to Paysanne as “the ice cream shop” more than anything else, since the location has seen multiple ice cream shops in that space over the years. True to tradition, ice cream has been Paysanne’s hot ticket item since it opened in 2010. Melinda Ellis had recently moved with her family from the coast to Anderson Valley to take a management position at The Boonville Hotel, and she reopened the tiny ice cream shop as a side project. With training in French pastry and a love of un-fussy, down-to-earth baking, she named the venture Paysanne, French for “country woman.”
For the first three years, the shop was independently run by Melinda, with her two young daughters running in and out and readily volunteering as quality control officers. Local high-schoolers scooped ice cream and hand-drew the signs for the flavors, and Melinda’s artistic niece adhered whimsical gold leaf stars to the midnight blue ceiling. Even a small business is a lot for one part-time owner to manage, though, so in 2013 Paysanne merged with The Boonville Hotel, allowing the two operations to share kitchen resources and administration costs, as well as creative cross-pollination.
Ten years into the partnership, Paysanne remains small but mighty. Last winter, the shop was given a fresh layout to welcome the shop into its teen years. The quaint space still features the same wall-to-wall windows and gold-leaf stars on the ceiling, but now has new counters and cabinetry, as well as a shiny new espresso machine that brings the coffee and drinks menu to a whole new level. With coffee beans from Black Oak Coffee Roasters out of Ukiah combined with organic milk options, customers can choose between a plethora of drinks to satisfy their caffeine cravings.
As of this summer, all of Paysanne’s ice cream is made in-house. The hotel’s executive chef, Perry Hoffman—known for never backing down from a culinary challenge—began experimenting with ice cream recipes last summer. He uses Clover organic milk and incorporates the best produce of the moment, be it strawberries, blackberries, or basil. In addition to classics like chocolate and vanilla, ice cream flavors such as orange cardamom or pomegranate ice come and go as the seasons roll along. The younger clientele gravitate toward organic cones, while many adults cannot resist an affogato assembled with espresso and a scoop of whichever ice cream strikes their fancy. There are also nostalgic options like root beer floats and milkshakes for folks seeking a more vintage ice cream experience.
Paysanne also sells a variety of (mostly) sweet baked goods, all made by hand. The best sellers include chocolate chip walnut cookies, ginger snaps, caneles, coffee cake, brownies, and the chocolate lover’s deluxe—chocolate sea salt cookies. Paysanne’s bakers incorporate seasonal, locally-sourced ingredients into menu items that alter daily, such as galettes, quiches, and tartlets. Favorites can sell out, so stop by early for maximum options. On Saturdays, another local baker sells whole loaves of fresh baked bread out of the shop.
Paysanne’s style is a combination of country charm and artistic whimsy. A few retail items by local artisans are on offer, and hot drinks are served in a locally-crafted, hand painted mug and matching saucer made by Ukiah ceramacist, Jan Hoyman. An oft-instagrammed feature is a bike rack made of antique bike seats, created by The Boonville Hotel owner and designer, John Schmitt.
On sunny weekends, a group of locals often gathers on the outside deck to play their instruments and sing folk music, while young children run around with ice cream. Area high-schoolers and young adults work behind the counter, and when their friends drop by, it adds a dash of young energy to the scene. Taken altogether, Paysanne serves as an ad hoc multi-generational community hub. Melinda shares, “We’ve hired the local teens throughout the years, starting at the ice cream shop, some moving on to work at the hotel, who have then gone out into the world to do their creative work. Littles who once couldn’t reach the counter have since worked as ice cream scoopers in their teens, and are now about to go out into the world. It’s been a joy to see the generations of our kids grow up and have part of their youth be at Paysanne.”
Looking to the future, The Boonville Hotel aims to continue expanding the pastry offerings at Paysanne while incorporating popular family recipes such as buttermilk milkshakes, which were originally served at Sally Schmitt’s Vintage Cafe in Yountville back in the 1970s. And as the sweets shop is directly next to Offspring, a wood-fired pizza restaurant also owned by the hotel, the crew plans to extend Paysanne’s hours to create a one-stop dinner and dessert spot for locals and tourists alike, its own take on “pizza and a pint”—of the ice cream variety.
As a crowd-pleasing purveyor of “real sweet things” for over a decade, Paysanne is more than just a quick stop for a pick-me-up. The ice cream shop is where kids grow up, friends and family gather, and community comes together, with good treats and good people at the heart of it all.
Paysanne
14111 Highway 128, Boonville
(707) 895-2210 | SweetPaysanne.com
See instagram for hours: @sweetpaysanne
Addia Williams is a graduate of Mendocino High School. She works at Paysanne and enjoys writing, volleyball, and spending time with her friends and family.
Mosswood Market
Boonville’s Cross-Cultural Coffee Spot
by Dawn Emery Ballantine
Mosswood Market is one of the most popular jewels in the crown of downtown Boonville—a place both delicious and affordable, appealing to locals and visitors alike. On any given morning, finding a parking place in front of Mosswood can feel like winning the lottery. Once inside the cafe, waiting in line offers a moment to take in the local artwork for sale on the walls (installations change regularly) as well as the inspirations on display behind the cafe bar. Pilar Echeverría, Mosswood’s owner, has a personal favorite which has guided her life—“Insistir, persistir, resistir, y nunca desistir,” or “Insist, Persist, Resist, and Never Give Up.”
For decades, the Mosswood site has been a gathering place for locals and a delightful surprise for tourists, operating out of the Farrer Building in the heart of Boonville. Its first iteration was Cafe Glad, created and run by Glad Donahue for eight years before she sold it to Sharon Hurley. Sharon changed the name to Mosswood Market and redesigned the space with romantic vintage touches like antique light bulbs and copper finishes. Pilar worked for both Glad and Sharon before purchasing the cafe 12½ years ago. As a young woman from La Laguneta, Michoacan, with limited English and no formal education beyond the 8th grade in Mexico, buying and running the business is a significant achievement.
Most famous for their empanadas—goat cheese and bacon, potato and goat cheese, and five other variations—Mosswood also serves Flying Goat Coffee drinks as well as yummy pastries like cinnamon twists, cinnamon rolls, scones, fruit and cheese danishes, among others. They offer a short breakfast menu, and delicious lunch options include paninis, salads, and soups, all made fresh.
The Mosswood staff are personable and delightful, serving up tastiness with a smile. And Pilar is always there, setting an example, observing and supervising, and joining in with the customers during their morning chat sessions. Mosswood is one of the few places where the often segregated cultures of Anderson Valley come together, and it is lovely to witness and be a part of. As Wendy Lamer from Disco Ranch says, “Pilar walks with all people in town. It’s remarkable, and we need more of it … One of the best things in Boonville is Pilar’s Mosswood, and she probably hears more information in the valley than anyone.”
Pilar reflects, “It took me maybe five years to combine two cultures … Right now, I have all my Mexican people, and even from other places, South America, etc. It’s a blend … At the beginning, that was a goal. Sometimes now I am the interpreter between two cultures, and my English is not like, wow, but I am always trying to help here and there. It is fun. I love it.” Pilar laughingly explains about small town gossip heard in the cafe, “You have huge ears, but you have to have a small mouth. And sometimes I don’t understand enough English, so that helps a little.”
Pilar emigrated here 25 years ago, when she was 17. Her father came first to secure their papers, then Pilar arrived, followed by the rest of the family. Pilar explains that coming here launched a different stage in her life. She feels safer and more comfortable here, because in Mexico the life for girls is so different and not as free. The family moved here because they wanted a different life with more freedom and better options for earning a living.
Though she completed school in La Laguneta at the 8th grade, Pilar did not want to begin school again in a new country, so she decided to find a job. She initially worked in the vineyards before becoming a nanny for a local family for 12 years, while also working as a baker at Cafe Glad, a position she enjoyed because, as she says, “I like people.” And in the meantime she married Javier, her childhood sweetheart from La Laguneta, and she started her own family.
When Cafe Glad was sold to Sharon and became Mosswood Market, Pilar stayed on. She enjoyed baking and working in the cafe, which provided the opportunity to learn more English and conquer some of her shyness. She attended Mendocino College for a couple of semesters, which helped her improve her English, but she says that her English was only “about 30%” when she began to consider purchasing the business. In fact, another employee at Mosswood at the time scoffed at Pilar, telling her she could never buy the cafe and be successful because she was from Mexico and had no business experience or English. But Pilar persisted, saying, “Just watch me!”
The sale process took about six months, made possible with savings and family loans. Pilar claims she didn’t know anything about business, but she knew how to utilize the connections and resources she had to great effect. She took the leap and has never regretted it, stating “I never work, because I love what I do.”
Mosswood persevered through COVID with no federal assistance, a fact that makes Pilar very proud. They are weathering the current changing economy, though a recent substantial rent increase has them concerned. Pilar notes that much of their success through hard times is because of their devoted community and family. One day, a community member arrived at Mosswood with $1,000 to help them through the worst of COVID. He said, “You need to survive. We want you here. So this is for you.”
Others have assisted by trading produce or donating extra from their gardens. When asked where she sources her produce, Pilar says, “I don’t buy. People are very generous to me. My cousin Veronica trades coffee for tomatoes or wine for tomatoes. I’m blessed because people, when they have extra, they offer it. I live in a very nice community.” The best part of owning this business is the people, notes Pilar. Even when people are difficult, she exclaims, “I love them!”
Pilar’s daughter, Miranda, has joined her mother behind the counter, and they both share in caring for Pilar’s young son, Damian. Pilar is pleased and surprised that Miranda really enjoys working at Mosswood, though she is young yet and has other interests she might explore. Noelia, Pilar’s aunt, begins the daily baking at 3am, and Erika, Pilar’s sister-in-law, is essential during lunch service. Their sweet smiles and greetings can be glimpsed through the kitchen cut-out. Pilar can do all the tasks and can run the place alone when needed, but she prefers to rely on the teamwork of her staff.
Pilar is committed to maintaining affordable prices for pastries so that regular folks can enjoy coffee and a treat. During COVID, their entire clientele was just locals, and that was enough for the business to survive. Pilar likes to reciprocate by keeping prices reasonable and hopes the rent increase won’t require otherwise. Getting through week to week can be a challenge, but she says, “I don’t know anything about business, and I do it in a different way. But I love my place, and I even get paid once in a while. Maybe I don’t have money, but I don’t owe money.” Pilar’s persistence has paid off. Mosswood is many things—a social hub for some, a remote office for others, and most of all, an excellent spot to grab a morning cup of bliss.
Mosswood Market
14111 Highway 128, Boonville
(707) 895-3635 | MosswoodMarketCafe.com
Open daily 5:30am – 3pm
Dawn Emery Ballantine lives in Anderson Valley where she curates and sells books at Hedgehog Books and edits this magazine.
Mendocino Cookie Company
Baking Daily Delights for the Past 40 Years
by Anna Levy
It’s been 40 years since Don and Beverlee Younger fell in love with Mendocino on a vacation and determined that they would build a life on the North Coast. They lived in Fremont at the time, and within two years, they had succeeded in making the move. They wanted to build a business that would be viable in the village, and, noticing the lack of a local cookie shop, they opened Mendocino Cookie Company in 1984 in the old Shell gas station near the Volunteer Fire Department.
All these years later, some things have changed—they are now located in The Company Store in Fort Bragg, for instance—but it’s still a family business. Beverlee oversees the production side of things, while their daughter Wendy runs the retail shop. Don and Beverlee’s son, Mike, is responsible for the maintenance and repairs to keep the business running smoothly. And grandson Quinn mans the espresso bar as a barista several days a week.
In the beginning, cookies were baked a dozen or so at a time using a household mixer, but the operation has grown considerably. “We bake ten varieties of cookies daily, with a different special cookie featured each day, including favorites such as Backpacker cookies, traditional Scottish shortbread, and of course chocolate chip cookies.” For her part, Wendy finds herself drawn to the Backpacker cookies—packed with oats, raisins, coconut, chocolate, butterscotch, and walnuts—as well as the chocolate shortbread with chocolate chips, while Beverlee prefers the Mocha Buzz, a caffeinated celebration of coffee and chocolate. They offer treats such as scones, muffins, and espresso drinks as well, with a host of both regular flavors and rotating specials.
Wendy says that they focus on the quality of ingredients as a foundation for excellence. She told me, “All of our chips come directly from Guittard Chocolate Company in San Francisco . . . they ship 500 pounds at a time to our door.” They use only the best for coffee and espresso, sourced from Peerless Coffee and Tea, an award-winning, family-owned coffee roastery in Oakland which has operated for more than 95 years. After working together for nearly three decades, Wendy shares that “We feel like part of their family.”
Certainly, there are challenges in running a business in a rural area, including the cost of freight, not to mention the cost of repairs when something needs to be fixed, but it’s worth it, Wendy says. “We love our community,” she notes, and shared that they have donated thousands of cookies to local non-profits.
Mendocino Cookie Company is a local institution which has expanded to include a nationwide cookie mail-order component. Their products are also available at other local spots—you can find their cookies at Jenny’s Giant Burger and their cookie dough at both the shop and at Purity Market. “We also make egg-free cookie dough for Cowlick’s Ice Cream cookie dough variety.”
As they look toward the future, they hope to continue building their relationship with both neighbors and visitors, someday passing the business on “for the next generation” and beyond, continuing to provide people with something to make their day a little sweeter. The Spicy Dark Chocolate Mocha, created to warm you up on cozy winter days, may be a great place to start.
Mendocino Cookie Company (aka Zappa’s)
301 North Main St. in Fort Bragg
707-964-0282 | MendocinoCookies.com
Open Mon - Sat 7am – 5pm, Sun 8am – 5pm
Anna Levy writes, cooks, and plans travel of all sorts whenever she can. She lives on the Mendocino Coast with her family.
La Buena Michoacana
Sweetness on a Stick
by Dawn Emery Ballantine
The small town of Tocumbo in Michoacán, Mexico, is the legendary birthplace of the paleta—frozen, refreshing sweetness on a stick (think a popsicle but so much better). One of Michoacan’s primary crops is sugar cane, and the combination of sugar with fresh fruit into paletas became a craze in the early 1940s that took on a life of its own. Most paletería businesses pay homage to their birthplace by using “Michoacana” somewhere in their moniker (which has lately grown legally contentious). Our very own local success story is La Buena Michoacana in Ukiah, owned and operated by Liz Echeverría and her husband, Luciano Mendoza.
From the time he was a small boy, Luciano dreamed of owning his own paletería. It wasn’t Liz’s dream initially, yet it has become her happy reality in a way that has surprised her, and now she can’t imagine doing anything else. The paletas are often visual works of art, and the flavors range from tried-and-true classics to unheard-of combinations. La Buena Michoacana offers 54 flavors, including non-dairy fruit paletas made with mamey, guabana, graviola, and mango-tamarind-chile, as well as dairy-based ice cream flavors such as coffee, eggnog, rosepetal, and caramel. New batches are hand-mixed and prepared weekly by Liz and Luciano, and they occasionally dream up new combinations to keep their line-up fresh and exciting. Their menu has expanded to include other items such as fruit bowls, aguas frescas, elote (corn on the cob), snack bowls, and a personal favorite, fresas con crema (strawberries with fresh cream).
Liz and Luciano both grew up in La Laguneta, Tocumbo. The town is small, its economy rooted in agriculture and ranching, and education there stops at 6th grade. When Liz was young, her father emigrated to Boonville, finding work in the logging industry until he was able to get his family’s legal paperwork in order to bring them to California. Liz was 16 when she arrived with her family, and soon found herself placed in the 10th grade class at Anderson Valley High School, despite speaking no English and having only completed 6th grade. But Liz and her family are hard workers, and that, in combination with the strong support of her teachers, enabled Liz to graduate high school in only three years, just before she turned 20. “I was the oldest kid in my class,” she laughed. Luciano had followed Liz to Boonville, where he found work at Navarro Vineyards, and they were married when Liz was 18. She attended Mendocino Community College and achieved her A.A. in Business, working for the next 11 years in the office of Anderson Valley Elementary School.
In late November of 2014, Liz and Luciano began to seriously consider Luciano’s dream of opening their own paletería. Relatives in Santa Maria, California had their own shop, so they traveled down to spend a week with them to learn the ropes. Luciano and Liz learned existing recipes as well as how to develop their own, and within six months, La Buena Michoacana opened its doors in Ukiah in the former Coldstone Creamery space. According to Liz, this greatly simplified the opening process, as most of Coldstone’s storefront setup remained. But they took out no loans or financing, and, on the day they opened for business, Liz remembered, “We had only $300 left in our bank account.” Their Santa Maria relatives came to help out for the grand opening during its first week. Happily, La Buena Michoacana was an instant hit.
Liz and Luciano manage almost every aspect of their business, with Liz handling administration and Luciano dealing with the day-to-day repairs and maintenance of the machines and premises. In 2017 they added a new facility in north Ukiah. After substantial renovation, which they completed themselves, they had created a new headquarters for paletas production.
They have always sourced their fruit from Andy’s Produce, a long-time family-owned produce company in Sebastopol which buys primarily from local farmers. Their fruit demands are year-round, and even though the prices wildly fluctuate (summer strawberries are $19/flat and $55/flat in winter) they keep their product prices steady at $3.00 per paleta. In an effort to keep their costs affordable for their customers, La Buena Michoacana does not use organic produce, but they do make every effort to keep their products local and “natural,” using no preservatives. Their fruit paletas consist of only fruit, sugar, and some water. Though Liz doesn’t go so far as to call them “healthy,” they are still a far better choice than many similar items on the market, as many other paleterías offer products that contain artificial fruit flavors and colors, as well as inferior sweeteners.
In addition to the two storefronts, La Buena Michoacana provides food for local events, regularly providing fresh fruit bowls for gatherings at Adventist Hospital. They create ice cream cakes and mini-popsicles for community events and private parties, and they have recently acquired a mobile paletería freezer—a popsicle pushcart—which is available for rent.
La Buena Michoacana is open year-round, employing eight people in the summer and scaling back to four employees in the slower winter months. Though their early days saw them working from 6am to 11pm, Liz said that she and Luciano now have a more manageable work life, with most weekends off and time for the family. Their 16-year-old son is just beginning to help with the business, and so far, he seems to enjoy it. Though they would eventually like to expand to another city or two in Mendocino County, for now, they are content with what they have built with their savings, their sweat, the support of their families, and their own hands. It’s a sweet life, and well deserved.
A Sampling of Flavors
On a hot, sunny Saturday, I drove to Ukiah to sample some of La Buena Michoacana’s 54 flavors. Seated at one of their outdoor tables, in the only sliver of shade to be found, I sampled a few flavors of each of the ice creams and paletas. The staff person was very friendly and knowledgeable about the makeup of each of the offerings.
I was very pleased to note that La Buena Michoacana utilizes World Centric products in their packaging. Every compostable cup and/or spoon makes a difference.
First, the ICE CREAMS. I haven’t had a dairy-based ice cream in a couple of years, but anything for the article!
Tequila. For real. An initial hit of tequila flavor that melds into a cold, smooth, creamy deliciousness.
Fresas con crema. I’m a sucker for all things strawberry, and strawberries and cream are one of my favorite treats. The sunny sweet flavor of strawberry is buoyed by the sweet cream base. Cold and sweet and full of strawberry flavor.
Mexican chocolate. Smooth, creamy chocolate with an undercurrent of cinnamon, sweet and subtle, making me want more.
Next up, PALETAS. These run the gamut of bases—dairy, coconut water, juices, and water. They are beautiful, with big chunks of fruit delighting eyes and tastebuds alike.
Passionfruit. This was my personal favorite. A water/fruit base, it was icy, tart, sweet, and crunchy with passionfruit seeds. It was delicious and refreshing with a lovely staying power.
Tropical Fruit. Made from a coconut water base, this paleta was full of chunks of kiwi, peaches, strawberry, pineapple, mango. Sweeter than the passionfruit but still enjoyable.
Fresh Fruit. This paleta is dairy-based, quite a bit sweeter, with chunks of strawberry, peaches, and grapes. Like a fruit ice cream on a stick.
La Buena Michoacana is a treat, especially in the hot days of late summer / early autumn.
Two locations in Ukiah make it even easier to find a cold, sweet treat. Or better yet, rent their paleta handtruck for your event, and sample all the flavors provided.
La Buena Michoacana
1252 Airport Park Blvd in the plaza behind Tractor Supply
(707) 467-1100 | 12PM - 8PM
1311 N. State Street in the Raley’s plaza
(707) 621-9336 | Mon - Thu 12PM - 8:30PM, Fri - Sun 12PM - 9PM
facebook.com/buenamichoacana
Store and passionfruit paleta photos by Dawn Emery Ballantine.
All other photos courtesy of La Buena Michoacana.
Dawn Emery Ballantine lives in Anderson Valley where she sells books at her tiny bookshop Hedgehog Books, edits this magazine, and disappears into the pages of a well-written story whenever time allows (and sometimes when it doesn’t).