Fall 2016 Publisher's Note
This time of year I am reminded of the adage, “the only constant is change.” As the season shifts to
autumn we are surrounded by constant change: wildfires here in Northern California are literally transforming communities and lives; technology has people hunting digital sprites in the street (no Pokemon for me, thanks); and another election cycle will come to a close (thankfully).
I find that as this change is happening, it is important to slow down and appreciate the gifts in life. Take time for gratitude. Go pick blackberries for Sunday breakfast with your family. I promise the quiet moments getting berry juice up to your elbows will not be wasted.
As school begins and summer recedes behind us, my focus shifts to preparation for winter. The challenge is to take the almost overwhelming bounty in the garden and change it into jams, pickles, and holiday gifts. Keeping that in mind, this issue includes some tips for how to fill your pantry (see DIY Olives, p. 29).
If slaving over a hot stove is not your cup of tea, we have also listed some delightful Mendocino County products in our Local Food Gift Guide (p. 20).
Still, if the heat of the weather or kitchen becomes too much, I recommend an escape to the coast. I recently did just that and stumbled upon the historic Nye Ranch (see Homegrown p. 29). This beautiful oceanside farm is over- flowing with vegetables and flowers, all in a setting that—delightfully for inland residents—hovers around a cool 65 degrees. In addition, the newly opened Noyo Headlands Trail allows unprecedented access to the Fort Bragg coast- line, expanding outdoor options for this small community. Café del Mar (see p. 37) is a recent arrival to the coast, replacing a traditional taqueria with healthy, international fare.
As we move into autumn, and the changes it brings, my hope is that you’ll be able to find a moment to pause and say thanks, for whatever changes come your way. I’ll be doing the same.
Holly Madrigal, Publisher
All Hail The Chief
by Ree Slocum
Going north along the 101 in Mendocino County a half hour beyond Willits is the little town of Laytonville. Like so much of our diverse county, Laytonville’s farming, food, and drink gems are scattered in the hills, tucked among derelict buildings along the highway, near other thriving businesses, or in long-ago homes of ranchers or loggers. Nestled off the road, next to the laundromat, just before the bustling town center is the Big Chief Restaurant.
The restaurant originally opened sometime in the mid ’60s offering the usual drive-in fare of hamburgers, french fries, and shakes. Through its six owners and fifty-year history it’s been a stop for travelers and had (still has) a devoted local following. In its new incarnation, New Orleans-connected owners Clay Carpenter, chef and butcher; Mat Paradis, all around PR man, chef and bartender who also raises pigs for the restaurant; and Troy Terrill, draft beverage curator, continue to serve popular hamburgers and fries as well as other favorites. The trio has a ten-year history of fine creative cooking for community events and fundraisers. They decided to honor their roots and originality by serving the food they’ve learned to love and cook: New Orleans Cajun.
On the new menu (they’ve been open since January) you’ll find the very popular Po’boy sandwiches with choices of fried gulf shrimp (“We just had to use the gulf shrimp,” Mat said almost apologetically), hot roast beef (Covelo grass-fed), fried chicken (locally sourced when available), house-smoked and locally grown ham, with gruyere cheese and house- pickled onions, and a fried shitake mushroom choice. There are Caesar, garden, and beet salads. Clay said they obtained permission to harvest beets from the high school’s green- house because they weren’t being harvested in summer. There are always specials during the week such as Baja-seasoned ling cod (harvested from Fort Bragg) on a brioche bun with cabbage slaw.
What to drink at the Chief? None of the three was interested in serving milk shakes, much to the disappointment of several local children. In New Orleans, Troy Terrill studied food and beverage in college and worked at a beer bar. Although he learned about wine in France, he became more interested in the extensive varieties of microbrewery beers he enjoyed when visiting friends in Laytonville, so the restaurant features the Draft Punk bar. Everything is draft, including the Clearly Kombucha and Nitro Iced Coffe, “because it tastes better,”
Troy asserts. He should know: he has cultivated relationships with many breweries. In some cases they know him so well they send the newly kegged brews directly to him, which soon become the next unusual offerings posted on the boards hanging above the bar. Want to try something way out of the ordinary? Ask Troy, Mat or Cody about Shot in the Dark or the Cee Shandy and maybe there will be another new and amazing combination when you visit.
After concluding my interviews and photography, I treated myself to a late lunch and ordered a beet salad with house- pickled onions, walnuts, and goat cheese (not goat-y) on a bed of organic greens with a fabulous, house-made vinaigrette. It was large and filling and one of the best beet salads I remember eating. Earlier in the day, while inter- viewing Troy, I ordered a kombucha with essence of Asian pear. Very refreshing. A wonderfully mild flavored kombucha, which begged me to purchase more to take home; I did, and enjoyed it immensely as I wrote this article celebrating the genius of the Big Chief’s three owners.
Boonville's "Third Spice" brings smokey sweet heat to any dish
by François de Mélogue
One of my favorite regions in America is Northern California. In a lot of ways, the picturesque Anderson Valley of Mendocino County reminds me in spirit of the South of France and Italy, though perhaps in an obscure kind of way. The sun-kissed rocky hills and foggy valley floor are home to thousands of acres of grape vines, small organic farms and herds of goats and sheep. Its bucolic small towns nestled among towering redwoods and craggy coastlines bathed in the golden California sunshine are a photographer’s wet dream. Like Peter Mayle’s biographical series ‘A Year in Provence’, Mendocino boasts a unique rhythm governed by its own cast of colorful characters that people the region. Artists, musicians, farmers, brewers, and vintners shape and enrich the colorful tapestry woven from a strong, sustain- able, organic and independent fabric.
Time is measured not by days, weeks or months but by the seasons. If Boonville is the cultural center of Anderson Valley life, then the Boonville Hotel has to be the incubator where ideas are contrived. I recently spoke with Kendra McEwen about piment d’ville, a fresher, more robust alternative to piment d’espelette for chefs and home cooks in America. “Piment d’ville all started in the kitchen at the Boonville Hotel where Chef Johnny Schmitt had been using piment d’espelette for decades after he discovered it traveling around Southern France.
One day he realized that we may live in the perfect climate to attempt growing the chile ourselves. In 2010 we cultivated a pepper field out back and grew 50 plants just to see if we could do it. We were pleasantly surprised to see that our fresh product was even better than what we had been buying out of France. We renamed our variety piment d’ville in respect of the espelette AOC, and in 2011 we grew 100 plants, then 1000 plants in 2012, 5000 plants in 2013, 10,000 plants in 2014 and this year we will plant 30,000. We grow it because we want to eat it on everything. That’s the real reason. And beyond that, we want to share it with everyone and help all kitchens be equipped with this “third spice” that becomes as invaluable as salt once you’ve tried it. The history of our company is still being written, really, as we’re only in our third year of selling commercially. We are a small town crew of spunky farmers and chefs. We do everything by hand, and we make sure to play just as hard as we work.”
Last winter I was in the Anderson Valley for a speaking engagement at the sold out 11th Annual Alsace Festival technical conference. My friend and designer extraordinaire, Torrey Douglass of Lemon Fresh Design, suggested getting together to do a Sunday afternoon tribute to piment d’ville. The menu gives you an idea about the versatility of this amazing spice: Radicchio Salad with grilled Monterey Squid flavored with lemon, basil and piment d’ville; Daube of Lamb Cheeks with Saffron Risotto, and, of course, Piment d’Ville Donuts with Moroccan Hot Chocolate. Its spicy sweetness was the perfect finale to our Sunday afternoon feast.
PIMENT D’VILLE DONUTS
Author: Chef François de Mélogue
Prep time: 10 mins Cook time: 3 mins Total time: 13 mins Serves: 8
A simple donut recipe anyone can make.
INGREDIENTS DONUT DOUGH
2 cups milk
1⁄2 pound butter
1⁄4 cup sugar
1⁄2 cup warm water
1-1/2 teaspoon dry yeast all purpose flour 2 teaspoons sea salt
2 teaspoons Piment d’Ville
6 egg yolks
SERVING DONUTS
1 cup sugar
1 teaspoon Piment d’Ville 1 teaspoon cinnamon
INSTRUCTIONS DONUT DOUGH
1. Boil 2 cups of milk and 1⁄2 pound butter together. When butter is melted remove from heat and cool till just warm.
2. Mix 1⁄4 cup sugar, 1⁄2 cup warm water and 1-1/2 teaspoon dry yeast together in a bowl and let sit for five minutes.
3. Put milk and yeast into the bowl of a mixer fitted with dough attachment. Add 2 teaspoons sea salt, 2 teaspoons Piment d’Ville and 6 egg yolks.
4. Start adding flour by the cup full till you have a ball of dough that is slightly sticky. I know this step will scare some of you. Brace yourselves. It will work out.
5. Knead for 8 minutes till smooth and elastic. Cover bowl with plastic wrap and let double in size.
SERVING DONUTS
1. Weigh out two ounce pieces and roll into a log shape. Pinch the ends together, put in a warm place on a parchment paper lined cookie sheet and let rest till it doubles in size.
2. Deep fry in 350 degree oil till brown and crispy on both sides. 3. Roll in granulated sugar mixed with Piment d’Ville and cinnamon.
NOTES
I use a large heavy gauged pot filled half way with vegetable oil. Put a deep fryer thermometer to check temperature. Be careful not to crowd pot with too many donuts because they will cool the oil and cause the donuts to soak up more fat. Drain donuts on a cookie sheet lined with paper towels.
If you want to serve donut holes simply portion out balls and fry them.
MOROCCAN HOT CHOCOLATE
Author: Chef François de Mélogue
Prep time: 5 mins Cook time: 5 mins Total time: 10 mins
A seductive Adult Hot Chocolate children of all ages will love.
Serves: 8
INGREDIENTS HOT CHOCOLATE
1 quart grass fed milk
1 pound bittersweet chocolate 1⁄4 c. sugar
1 cinnamon stick
1 star anise
2 teaspoons piment d’ville
1 big pinch saffron
INSTRUCTIONS
1. Combine everything and bring to boil.
2. Stir well.
3. Serve in small cups. The hot chocolate will be thick and rich. This ain’t your powdered hot chocolate.
DIY: Olives
by Ree Slocum
Lifelong Homesteaders Jim Denton and Rhea Green on this particularly unpredictable fruit
It was a blistering hot day when I visited my homesteading friends, Rhea Green and Jim Denton, on their gorgeous, Mediterranean-like property outside of Ukiah to talk about olives. Inveterate gardeners, Jim and Rhea have been growing their own food for almost forty years. They added nine varieties of olive trees to the mix in 2005. Homesteading takes the long view so their future plan is to transport the olives to a press to make their own oil. For now, because the trees are still young and don’t produce enough fruit, the couple hand harvest the olives, brine them, and use a variety of recipes to find ones that suit their tastes. They use these olives daily to garnish their meals and as one of the homegrown gifts in their yearly Winter Solstice Basket for family and friends.
Taking refuge in the shade of their olive trees, Jim and Rhea talked to me about growing and harvesting the fruit. The weather is so changeable from year to year, that they’ve found the ripening of their olives can vary greatly from November to an unusual February. According to Rhea, “Let’s say it’s November 15th and the Luca olives on your tree aren’t uniformly ripe. You’re going to have some green, some reddish, some purple, some black. It’s time to harvest and you harvest all of them.” One year, being curious experimenters, they wanted to know what each color of olive on a tree tasted like so they grouped the colors and separately brined them. They found blacker olives definitely brined (debittered) more quickly but were mushier. Jim laughed about the totally black ones they thought would be their favorite but turned out too mushy and ended up in the compost pile. It seems the greener ones are everyone’s favorite. Now, because they enjoy the different flavors, they keep it simple by packing the jars with all the olives in their varied ripeness from the same tree.
Jim and Rhea’s Basic Brining Recipe (The science used in the brining process is a taste testing affair)
PREPARATION
Have quart jars ready with plastic lids and a disc of hard plastic (which can be cut from plastic food containers) to keep the olives submerged during brining. This is important since there will be a mold formed during processing that shouldn’t sit on the olives and will be rinsed off during the processing. Do not use metal lids nor discs since the salt in the brine will corrode the metal.
WEEK 1
rinse newly harvested olives
pack in clean and sterilized half gallon jars
add 8 oz. of salt per gallon of cool water, mix well
add mixture to olives in jars
cover the olives with a disc of hard plastic to keep them submerged during brining
protect with a “loose on” plastic lid (set the lid on the rim of the jar without tightening)
WEEK 2
• rinse olives thoroughly
• add 16 oz of salt per gallon of water, mix well
• add mixture to olives in jars
• cover the olives with the disc of hard plastic
• protect with the “loose on” plastic lid • let sit for 2 weeks
WEEK 4
• rinse olives thoroughly
• add 16 oz of salt per gallon of water, mix well
• add mixture to olives in jars
• cover the olives with the disc of hard plastic
• protect with a tight plastic lid • let sit for 4 weeks
WEEK 8 AND ON
• rinse olives thoroughly
• add 16 oz of salt per gallon of water, mix well
• add mixture to olives in jars
• cover the olives with the disc of hard plastic
• protect with a tight plastic lid
Change the brine every month until
you determine they’re no longer bitter. Depending upon the size of the olive and its ripeness, this can take from six to almost eleven months.
When debittered to your taste, drain the brine, rinse with fresh water changing the water every day or a few times a day until the saltiness is to your liking.
When seasoned to your preference, you can keep them in their brine and store them that way indefinitely (although Jim and Rhea usually use them within two years).
Old World Blood Peaches
by Mary Anne Cox
The Indian Blood Peach is an Old World fruit that was brought over to Mexico by the Spanish in the 1500s. According to Slow Food’s ‘Ark of Taste’, over the course of a century, the fruit spread up into the southeastern United States and was grown by native tribes such as the Cherokees and the Creeks. Euro- pean explorers arriving later were astonished to find this Old World fruit growing in the New World. It is thought that this heirloom peach survived because it was a superior canner. These delicious peaches are not commercially available so if you see them at one of our local farmers markets snap them up! If you cannot find blood peaches any fresh market peach will do.
Blood Peach & Butter Lettuce Salad
• 2 Blood Peaches
• 1⁄2 tsp Chipotle Powder
• 1 Head Butter Lettuce
• 1⁄4 cup Sprouted Almonds
• 1⁄4 cup Laychee Chevre from Penny Royal Farms • Dressing
• 1⁄4 cup aged Sherry Vinegar
• 1 TBS Cider Syrup from Philo Apple Farm
• 1 tsp Dijon Mustard
• 1⁄2 cup Olive Oil
• Sea Salt
• Fresh Cracked Pepper
Slice blood peaches in half, brush with olive oil and sprinkle with chipotle powder. On grill or griddle, grill each side for 3-5 minutes, set aside. Wash head of lettuce and pat dry. Separate leaves. On cutting board chop sprouted almonds into medium pieces (so that they are chunky). Once cool, slice blood peaches into quarters.
In separate bowl, pour sherry vinegar, cider syrup and Dijon mustard and mix thoroughly. Slowly pour olive oil into mixture and whisk consistently until thickened. Add sea salt to taste.
In big salad bowl put lettuce leaves and toss with dressing. Separate evenly onto four plates, place blood peaches onto lettuce leaves and gently crumble chevre across top layer of salad, sprinkle with sprouted almonds. Crack fresh pepper to taste.
Lori Rosenberg, General Manager of Ukiah Natural Foods Co-op
by Caroline Radice
Whether you’re a devoted member- owner or just shop there occasionally, having Ukiah Natural Foods as a grocery store option means that we are able to purchase high quality, fresh, organic foods consistently and conveniently. One of the many wonderful people behind the store is Lori Rosenberg, General Manager and Ukiah Natural Foods employee of thirty years. Lori is passionate about quality food and a driving force behind the co-op’s enduring commitment to bring organic food to our community.
Lori moved to Ukiah from New York in the ‘70s during the famous back- to-the-land movement, which found many people moving to Northern California for its natural beauty and community of like-minded people. Some community members had the idea of starting a buying club to bring goods and products in that the group really needed for that lifestyle: fruit trees, canning equipment, bulk bags of organic rice and beans. When asked if there were any interesting purchases in the early days of the cooperative Lori said, “Yes, absolutely, customers were buying 55 gallon drums of nutritional yeast and 5 gallon tubs of tahini!” The buying club received great reception and was incorporated as the Home- stead Exchange in 1976. Lori worked as a small farmer during these years, harvesting fresh greens, herbs, and flowers before dawn to take to Ukiah Farmers’ Market.
As the store grew, Ukiah Natural Foods moved from a funky little garage on Gobbi Street to a larger space on Perkins St., and realized they could source a whole lot more than just rice and beans. They enlarged the selection of food items to include fresh produce, dairy, and more dry goods. The organic food movement was only just beginning then, and the purchasing options were limited. As so many farmers often do, Lori took a job working as a cashier at the store for some extra income. She didn’t really intend to turn her cashier job into a thirty year career, but these values and ideals resonated with her and her love of good organic food made her a perfect fit for the store. Ukiah Natural Foods was one of many cooperatives across the country formed in these years, which found the organic food movement really growing into a powerful force for change in the way we eat. “The staff and customers were filled with enthusiasm, and being part of the natural food movement was like being part of
a joyful avalanche,” according to Lori. The movement blossomed and more and more farms and producers began adopting organic practices.
In 1997, Ukiah Natural Foods moved to their current Gobbi Street location, and saw business continue to grow. These days, organic has become mainstream and they’re not the only store in town selling organic food. Ukiah Natural Foods, though, goes above and beyond in their sourcing, taking the most care to make sure that their values and ideals are reflected in their purchasing. They have been supportive of local farmers for years, and have been happy to use the MendoLake FoodHub, a new local delivery system started by North Coast Opportunities to make it easy for wholesale purchasers to buy directly from local farmers. Customers can find an array of locally grown produce from farms such as Irene’s Garden, Seely Farm, Bob Gates Organics, and Love Farms. Local meats and cheeses are available for sale from Shamrock Artisan Chevre, Mendocino Meats, Inland Ranch Organics, John Ford Ranch, Magruder Ranch and more. Local meats are so popular that it’s hard to keep them in stock, some- thing Lori attributes to customers’ increased desire to purchase sustainable, humanely raised meats that are healthy, safe and nutritious.
Ukiah Natural Foods turns 40 this year, with a birthday bash scheduled for October 9th, 11 a.m. – 3 p.m. The free event will be fun for the whole family, with local vendors, farmers, and live music. Customers can also look forward to their 40 days of give- aways, starting on September 15th, when they’ll be raffling off a free item every day. Lori is incredibly proud to celebrate what the store has accomplished this far and what they are able to do for the community, and is looking forward to continuing their mission of bringing good organic food to our community for many years to come.
"The Tweeting Farmer" Speaks Out for Welsh Hill Farmers
by Jenny Senter
On a trip to Wales this past winter, I visited with farmer Gareth Wyn Jones, an outspoken advocate of Welsh hill farming, known for his following on social media.
Gareth Wyn Jones, his father, three uncles, three cousins, and his wife and three children are the latest stewards on a farm that has been in his family for over 350 years. His farm, Ty’n Llwyfan, is nestled between the lowest expanse of the Snowdonian Carneddau mountain range and the small community of Llanfairfechan, in northeast Wales.
Jones first gained his social media following in the spring of 2013, during a late snowstorm of epic proportions. The storm initially wasn’t a huge concern to the Welsh farmers because they are used to late snows. As hill farmers, they breed their sheep to be hardy. The blizzard that hit March 22nd raged for two days. The high winds of the storm blew the snow into deep drifts against the rock walls, where the sheep had sheltered. Farmers throughout Wales worked day and night for days to save their animals, many of whom were buried in several feet of snow.
Jones remembers that as he was working to save his animals, he tweeted pictures of his struggles to free the sheep. Almost immediately, he began to receive calls from television and radios stations wanting interviews. Next, film crews and newscasters showed up on the farm in order to film his plight. The coverage of him struggling with his sheep spread throughout Great Britain and beyond. He said although it was hard to balance the rush for television and radio interviews while trying to save his animals, he felt it was important to get the word out about this dire situation that farmers all over the United Kingdom, not just Wales, were facing. Final tallies of the devastation in Mid and North Wales, amounted to the deaths of approximately 1,400 cattle, 30,000 sheep, and untold numbers of Carneddau ponies, the wild ponies of Snowdonia.
Because of this terrible tragedy, and his outspoken manner, Jones developed a following on social media and now has over 12,000 followers on Twitter (@GarethLlanfairfechan). He also uses Facebook, Instagram, and YouTube and his family was recently the subject of a four-part television series called The Hill Farm. He uses this platform to promote his causes which, to name just a few, are convincing Britain’s supermarkets to stock local products, promoting the unique and wonderful qualities of Welsh lamb and beef, making the Welsh population aware of the choices they have to buy local, opposing legislation that hurts farmers, and so much more.
Gareth Wyn Jones believes the problem with farmers, himself included, is that, “We want to make a living, but we are not very good at selling what we do. We are very good at producing, but not very good at selling.” Gareth’s goal is to educate consumers about local products and food production so that they will be more likely to support the local farmer.
Jones is disheartened that some of Wales’ best products are shipped out of country because locals don’t buy Welsh products. Not because the products aren’t good, but because they often aren’t available in the supermarket, where most people shop. Supermarkets stock imported produce, meat, and fish, which Jones believes is of inferior quality. He has lobbied long and hard to encourage supermarkets to purchase local meat, milk, and produce, and to make sure the farmers get a fair price for their goods.
To survive on a small farm, Jones says it is essential to have cooperation between farmers, the support of the community outside of farming, and fair legislation from the government. He pointed out that Welsh farmers haven’t always been respected. But he acknowledges that farmers traditionally haven’t always been welcoming to outsiders. He hopes that all of the publicity will lead to better acceptance and under- standing of all farmers.
The geography, soil, weather, and predators all contribute to making farming a difficult way of life. As a result, Jones observes that many young people have opted out of this life. He hopes to change this trend by educating the next generation about the satisfaction of living off the land and producing quality products. His face lights up when he talks of his love of the land and the life he has carved out for himself and his family.
Jones notes that farming is hard, with “long hours for little reward. Physically, mentally, emotionally - it’s tough.” However, he said he delights in waking up and looking at the sunrise from what he calls his “office view.”
He adds, “I am a custodian that only looks after this land, and I will be very proud if I can hand it over to my children to pass on to the next generation.“
Fathers & Daughters Keep It In The Family
by Heidi Cusick Dickerson
“There is something in my blood that attracted me to grape growing,” says the affable Kurt Schoeneman who, with his wife, Heather, owns Ferrington Vineyards. The vineyard, located just north of Boonville in Anderson Valley, has a reputation for premium quality grapes.
Schoeneman, a native of Oakland, spent the last thirty years building apartment houses in the Bay Area. Kurt was born and raised in the East Bay, “A real city slicker,” he quips. Heather, tall and attractive with short hair, is from Sydney, Australia, and speaks with that cheery inflection associated with her native country.
Their daughter, Sarah, found this vineyard and Kurt dimly saw its potential. “I didn’t know a thing about grape growing,” he smiles. He knew enough to hook up with people who are professionals. First he connected with Norman Kobler, son of the late Hans Kobler, legendary Anderson Valley winemaker who, with his wife, Theresia, founded Lazy Creek Vineyards. “He brought hands-on experience,” says Kurt. Kobler, his wife, and their two sons live on the property. Kurt also worked with one of Mendocino County’s renowned vineyard managers, Mark Welch, who helped develop the replanting of the entire 75 acres. “It was dumb luck to find Norman and Mark,” says Kurt. When Welch moved on, Kurt hired Anderson Valley’s Paul Ardzrooni. “Mark was smart and got us going. Now Paul is doing a wonderful job,” says Kurt, who is clearly proud of his team. Rounding out that team are seven key vineyard workers who, with their families, also live on the property.
A communal spirit surrounds Ferrington Vineyards. “It is my intention that everyone feels part of the place,” says Kurt. The philosophy embraces that everyone pitches in if something needs to be done. They have a herd of sheep, natural “lamb mowers” they call them. They raise a couple of steers that are butchered to stock everyone’s freezer.
The Schoenemans now live here full time. They still manage their apartment buildings. “How do you think I can afford to be a grape grower?” Kurt laughs. At Ferrington Vineyards forty-four acres are planted with six different clones of Pinot Noir grapes, eighteen acres are in Chardonnay, a dozen in Gewürztraminer and an acre in Sauvignon Blanc. The reputation for quality and the number of wine labels that tout Ferrington Vineyards as the grape source is growing. What makes the grapes here so great? “Terroir combined with vineyard practices,” says Kurt. He explains that the rocky soil in his vineyard is not conducive to high yields. “Since I can’t go for quantity, I go for quality,” he explains.
Wine made from grapes grown at Ferrington Vineyards consistently gets high scores by noted wine rankers such as Robert Parker, and also the Wine Spectator. Wineries that buy grapes from Ferrington have included Anderson Valley’s Foursight, Handley, Husch, Londer, and Philo Ridge, Sonoma’s Arista, Flowers, and Napa’s Twomey. McPhail’s 2005 Ferrington Vine- yards Pinot Noir was listed in the San Francisco Chronicle’s top 100 wines. Wines such as Williams Selyem and Londer Pinot Noir consistently rate more than 90 points out of a possible 100.
Kurt is proud not only of the success of his vineyards, but of Anderson Valley as well. “Of the top twenty Pinot Noirs in the Chronicle competition, five are from Oregon, fifteen are from California and of those, six are from Anderson Valley. That’s pretty remarkable considering Anderson Valley grows about one percent of the Pinot Noir in the state,” he says.
Currently a new project is growing out of Ferrington Vineyards. The family has decided to bottle a small release under the label Fathers & Daughters Cellars. Guy Pacurar, husband of Sarah, is bottling a new vintage in honor of the fathers and daughters of the vineyard. The first release commemorated the birth of Guy and Sarah’s daughter, Ella. Now four years old, Ella does not yet realize the legacy that is being created for her, but the fathers and daughters don’t end there; Kurt and Sarah started it all and now Taylor, Guy’s older daughter is involved as well. “ We are embarking on a multi-generational adventure, exploring three of the best things in life: fathers, daughters, and wine.” says Pacurar. “We had no idea how much this name and the concept behind Fathers & Daughters would resonate until we started pouring the wine, first at the Anderson Valley Pinot Festival, then at the LA WineFest.” We at Word of Mouth magazine agree. A bottle of Fathers & Daughters Pinot Noir or Sauvignon Blanc would make the perfect gift for the fathers or daughters in your life.
California Bay Laurel & Bay Nut Bon-Bons
by Donna d'Terra
Use care when wild foraging. Eat only plants, berries, and mushrooms that have been safely identified.
The California Bay Laurel (Umbellularia californica) is a tree found throughout our bioregion. (It is also known as Pepperwood and Myrtlewood.)
Right now, the nuts, which look like miniature avocados, are ripe and falling on the ground. They can be dried and made into Bay Nut Bon Bons (recipe on the right). They taste somewhat like chocolate, and also have a similar stimulating effect.
This recipe came from Tamara Wilder who practices natural living skills in Mendocino County. See more about her work at Paleotecnics.com. You can also find information for harvesting, storing, and roasting Baynuts at SkillCult. com, the blog and website of self-reliance expert Steve Edholm.
Bay Laurel tree leaves are also useful. Put a handful in the jar with your grains to repel insects, or in chicken roosts as a louse preventative, or with your garlic to increase storage time. The leaves have a reputation of relieving a headache when crushed and gently inhaled.
Now is the time to collect and dry your bay nuts for the coming months. They will store for a year or more. Happy Autumn!
Bay Nut Bon Bons
Collect the nuts and let them dry enough that you can easily peel off the outer covering, and then let the nuts dry completely.
Roast the nuts in a 450 ̊ oven on
a cookie sheet for about 15 to 20 minutes, stirring every few minutes until they are brown but not scorched.
Cool the nuts and remove the outer shell with a hammer. Next, grind the nutmeats in a grain mill, or blender. Stir in a small amount of sweetener such as honey or organic powdered sugar, and then form into little balls.
Blooms with a View: Nye Ranch
by Holly Madrigal
Nye Ranch began as a seaside dairy farm, stretching two hundred acres into what is now MacKerricher State Park, just north of Fort Bragg, California. The land was purchased in 1880 and throughout the years the ranch has had several different dairy operations as well as a pea and potato farm. The property has been reduced to six acres of pastures on the ocean-side of Highway 1, it includes a beautiful historic redwood house and barn dating back to the early 1900’s. The family of Kyle Forrest Burns purchased Nye Ranch in 2003.
Kyle and his partner Melanie MacTavish moved to the Mendocino coast in October of 2015. The couple leases a section of the land for their farm from Kyle’s family.
Their first step was planting fifteen hundred cloves of garlic and sowing a half-acre of cover crop in the pasture chosen to be cultivated. The heavy winter rains combined with the compacted soil led to an unsuccessful cover crop, which was submerged in six inches of water. With their fingers crossed they started over ten thousand vegetable and flower seeds in anticipation of an early spring planting. As the seedlings began to germinate and grow these farmers got to work hand digging forty-seven permanent raised beds, each a hundred feet long. The process was muddy and labor intensive but the farm began to take shape.
With soil tests as their guide, the next step was applying copious amounts of organic compost and amendments to balance the depleted soil. They also used a broad fork to alleviate the decades of compaction. With perfect luck, the field dried out enough so that they could transplant the starts from the hoop house right on schedule. Just as everything began to take root the northwest spring winds tore through the farm with gusts as high as 50mph. There’s no current barrier between the farm and the ocean so the salt winds badly burned the baby plants and for awhile it wasn’t certain they would recover. Most likely because the plants enjoyed their ocean view, they persevered and eventually thrived.
As the early spring crops came to maturity, Kyle and Melanie opened a farm-stand on Saturdays. It turns out the neighbors were anxiously awaiting their offerings. Nye Ranch grows over twenty-five varieties of vegetables and over thirty varieties of specialty cut-flowers. The farm fresh vegetables and bouquets have become an immediate success with the very supportive community. The farm’s location, directly on Highway 1, along with its diversity and beauty make the Saturday farm-stand a destination for locals and tourists alike. Nye Ranch also sells at the Fort Bragg and Mendocino Farmers Markets from May through October. The farm-stand is closed during the winter.
Nye Ranch offers wedding and event flower services for those who appreciate beautiful, seasonal, locally grown flowers. With a Bachelors Degree in Fine Arts and years of cut-flower experience working for California Organic Flowers in Chico, Melanie has developed a unique style in her floral arrangements. Kyle has always dreamed of starting a farm. As the farm transitions to no-till, they plan on a slow expansion of area cultivated with a focus on nutrient dense food, community involvement and soil health. Nye Ranch is not certified organic but they consider their approach to meet or exceed organic industry standards.
Kyle and Melanie recently received funding through the U.S.D.A. Natural Resources Conservation Service for a pollinator hedgerow to be planted around the farm. It will incorporate native plants and herbs providing habitat for beneficial organisms, bees, pollinators and create a windbreak from the salty coastal winds.
American Craft Whiskey’s Homegrown Distillery
by Karen Rifkin
Courtesy of The Ukiah Daily Journal
After settling in Mendocino County, in ’89 Crispin Cain began apprenticing as an assistant under the auspices of master distiller Hubert Germain-Robin. He is now president and executive distiller of Tamar Distillery Inc./American Craft Whiskey Distillery Inc. and Greenway Distillers Inc. with his wife and partner, Tamar Kaye, who serves as vice president.
Cain makes apple honey wine at their facility, a process with which he is familiar as his grandfather ran an illicit, family-run still during Prohibition. “The use of honey doubles the alcohol content and makes the wine richer,” he says.
Inside the distillery room in Redwood Valley, the malt wine is pumped into a 750-gallon copper pot still and kept at a very high temperature beginning the distillation process that takes 8-12 hours to complete. Vaporized alcohol moves from the still through copper coiling and passes through a swan-neck-like configuration into a 1500-gallon condenser pot filled with cold water where the vapor is transformed into liquid alcohol.
“Copper is magic,” says Kaye. “It creates a finer product, a smoother taste.” The first distillate (la premier chauffe) is usually about 30 per cent alcohol and enough is saved to fill the still for a second distillation (la bonne chauffe) yielding a 70 per cent spirit, aromatic and flavorful. A spigot on the condenser pot is opened and master distiller Cain carefully selects the heart (l’eau de vie), the purest spirit, the flow between the head and the tail of the condensation pot, is extracted.
Water is added to the spirit and rose petals harvested from decades-old rose bushes are macerated in it, turning it a reddish amber color. The mixture is sweetened to about 7 or 8 per cent, transferred to a tank for six months, strained, bottled and sold as Crispin’s Rose Liqueur.
Rose Artemisia absinthium, hyssop, lemon balm, fennel, mint and other herbs are processed with the pure distillate to create a second product, Germaine-Robin Absinthe Superieure. Both the liqueur and absinthe are sold under the Greenway Distillers, Inc. label.
In 2008, a second company was created, Tamar Distillery Inc./ American Craft Whiskey Distillery Inc., and Cain and Kaye began making Low Gap Whiskey, Russell Henry Gin, DSP 162 Vodka and Fluid Dynamic Barrel Aged Cocktails.
“We make four different kinds of whiskey, including bourbon, using the old double distillation method and the stills that Hubert brought with him from France,” says Crispin.
“Very few distilleries are doing what I do in this old fashioned form. I ferment grain mashes and malt wines, in-house, and double distill them in old Cognac pot stills, choosing the finest heart of the second distillation for aging, blending and drinking—with no added bulk spirits made elsewhere—using just the pure stuff made right here in Mendocino County,” says Cain.
Malted syrups—corn, barely, rye and wheat— are thinned with rainwater or filtered water and warmed in a 650-gallon container. The mash is transferred to a larger tank where yeast and enzymes are added, consuming all the starches, sugars and glutens, fermenting it to dryness.
The product is put into a direct fire still and the whiskey distillate is poured into wooden barrels where it is aged for two to twenty years.
A light sweet smell fills the barrel room and Crispin explains, “There’s an exchange between the wood and the spirit where the spirit picks up the flavor and color of the wood. There’s also evaporation through the staves in the barrel, a certain amount of loss that we want to happen. It concentrates the flavor and color.” That small evaporative loss is called the “angel’s share”.
“Adding water from time to time brings out the flavor of spirit, like a blooming flower,” says Kaye.
Cain taps the barrels at certain intervals, pulling out samples, tasting and taking notes. “The first round of smelling I assess for oakiness, graininess. Has it developed a vanilla or buttery character? Is it fruity?”
The second round he tastes for exceptional flavor and decides if the spirit will continue to be aged or be bottled in the next six to twelve months.
With a little hammer, he taps into a barrel of 100-proof Low Gap 2014 Malted Rye Whiskey, pours the amber whiskey into a wine glass, transfers it to another and twirls the liquid. Just a slight taste—mellow, balanced and tantalizing—is transformative.
Café del Mar in Fort Bragg
As I sit at the Café del Mar in Fort Bragg,
the building begins to rumble slightly. The building, shaped as a long triangle, has the Skunk Train tracks near its northern border, hence the gentle shaking of my house-made drink, a Champagne shrub cocktail as the train trundles past the window. A shrub refers to this type of drink, usually an infused mixture of fruit, vinegar, or spirits.
I know I made a good menu choice when my Caribbean Plate of Cuban beans and rice, grilled local rock cod with pico de gallo, braised greens and fried plantains arrives. This modest restaurant was previously a tacqueria and still has a bit of the causal burrito shop vibe. Local art adorns the walls and the small bar is packed with regulars.
The menu and drink selection is night-and-day different from the previous ownership. A high-quality selection of beers includes North Coast Brewery (their next door neighbor), Ballast Point, and Eel River Brewing Company to name just a few.
My shrub cocktail pairs Tanglewood brut with a slightly fermented concoction of citrus, ginger, mango, and cider vinegar –– refreshing and tart with the perfect amount of sweetness.
Café del Mar has been open for nine months and the word is out. This is the place for healthy local food prepared with an eclectic flair. Owner, Isael Alcala, is originally from Guadalajara, Mexico. He and his family have lived in the U.S. since 1988. “My father died of cancer when I was three from being overexposed to pesticides while working in the fields,” Isael remembers. This experience and the commercialization of the food industry is what prompted him to pursue having a healthy restaurant. “The menu is a combination of things I always wanted when I was traveling around the world,” and his menu reflects that vision.
I’ll tell you it was hard to choose between my entree and the Blackened Portabella (gluten-free) or the Chicken Sofrito with cabbage and pickled onion. The house-made pickles, shrubs, and sauces are the magic of Naka Hassel, business partner in Café del Mar. Her culinary expertise lends itself to piquant pickles, creative shrub concoctions and sauces like the spiced tomato juice used in the Michelada, mixed with lager and the glass coated with house-dehydrated chili lime salt. Naka’s culinary handiwork is evident in the unique drink offerings; she also has a hand in the visual ambiance of the restaurant.
Unable to polish off the generous portions, I took the rest home for the spouse. I smiled when my bill arrived tucked into a spaghetti western paperback. Café del Mar has character I will not soon forget. Next time I will get that sofrito.
Growing Support: The Good Farm Fund lends farmers a hand
by Holly Madrigal
The Good Farm Fund was organized by a group of farmers and local food supporters who saw that they could take action here in our community to solve some of the gaps in the local food system. The group has become well-known for their wonderful farm–to-table dinners and other events. “We are trying to have events that benefit farmers not just foodies,” says Scott Cratty, Ukiah Farmers Market Manager and one of the fund’s organizers. He adds that the local community is generous and that the Good Farm Fund helps direct fundraising to where it can do the most good. Many farmers have specific needs that, if met, would increase their production. Hunter Flynn and Isa Quiroz of Tequio Community Farm realized that they could triple their food production in 2016 if they invested in seed planting equipment. Tequio provides fresh produce at both the Ukiah and Fort Bragg Farmers Markets as well as to local restaurants like Adam’s Restaurant in Willits, and Saucy in Ukiah. The Good Farm Fund was able to fund that equipment purchase via a modest grant.
There were a couple of contributing factors that led to the creation of the Good Farm Fund according to Scott. Small farms, both here in our community and all across the country, struggle to become financially sustainable. The people who grow our food work long hours with very low wages, leaving little room for business investments. The Good Farm Fund helps connect
a supportive local community with the devoted farmers who are already putting in all of the hard work. Farmers are able to apply for grants to do the projects that are unique to their farms, ranging from investments in seed stock to fencing, to drought-sensitive irrigation equipment. During the first grant cycle, in December 2015, the group awarded $7,000 in grants to nine local farms. Due to diligent fundraising and community support, this year they have $20,000 that will be awarded in Farm Grants. A committee of experienced local farmers, who offer insights and feedback on projects, awards the grants.
The Good Farm Fund also works to help ensure funding for the Farmers Market Match Program. “This program is really a magical thing,” Scott adds. “It takes what were formerly food stamps, now called EBT, and doubles, dollar for dollar, the spending power at the Farmers Market. It takes what is a federal subsidy and uses it to benefit our local farmers and the person’s health. Often food stamps get used for less healthy junk food. The federal government is not going to pay someone to grow broccoli. So this program lets that happen. It is good for the customer, the farmer and our local economy. It is a win-win-win.” Local community action group NCO (North Coast Opportunities) is the fiscal sponsor of the Good Farm Fund as well as the Market Match program.
One of the highlights of the Good Farm Fund’s fundraising this year was the recent Farm-to-Table Benefit at Yokayo Ranch, which raised over $8,000 for the Farm Grant Program. This culinary extravaganza gathered more than twenty local chefs and paired each of them with a specific farm. The partner- ships produced divine dishes such as a chilled green tomato gazpacho from a match between Elevensies Restaurant and Green Uprising Farm. Chefs Liz and Kelvin Jacobs, of Wildfish restaurant created a salmon ceviche with fava bean puree from the Noyo Food Forest. The participating chefs came from around Mendocino and Lake Counties and donated a huge amount of time and effort to make the evening a success.
It was a magical evening that included delicious food, live Cuban music by Marcos Pereda and Kristine Robin, and testimonials from people directly helped by the Good Farm Fund grants including Ruthie King of the Grange School of Adaptive Agriculture.
The Good Farm Fund hosts a number of stellar events throughout the year including the Cinema in the Vineyards, a coastal Harvest Dinner, the Farm-to- Table Benefit, and the upcoming third annual Winter Feast in Ukiah. Check their website goodfarmfund.org for more information. Scott Cratty sums up, “If we can help make that connection between our local farmers and the community that supports them, if we can build those relationships and make their work easier, we all benefit”.
