Scott Cratty Pursues Radical Retail at Westside Renaissance Market

written and photographed by Ree Slocum

When I walk into the Westside Renaissance Market in a quiet neighborhood not far from downtown Ukiah, I’m filled with nostalgia. The neighborhoods I grew up in all had small stores like this, and as kids we would walk or bike to them for candy or the odd grocery item Mom needed from her shopping list. It was a time before strip malls and big box stores dominated a small town’s retail landscape. We came and went freely and were known by name.

Scott Cratty, owner of Westside Renaissance Market, has an ever-evolving vision of what the local food movement can look like and the Westside Renaissance Market is a great example of his unfolding dream. Eight years ago he bought the failing neighborhood food market on Clay Street. There used to be many of them and the Westside Market, built in the mid-1930s, is the last of its kind in Ukiah. Because local food is a passion for Scott (he manages the Ukiah Farmer’s Market), he reenergized the store to prioritize “localized” food and other regional products. Besides operating his own store and likes to support other small businesses. Part of the Market’s mission statement is to help people get their foot in the door by testing things out in the market and, if successful, start in the food business. “It used to be, 20 years ago, there were a bunch of neighborhood markets and if you were a producer you could make some money,” Scott says. He wants to make sure that “people who produce food—like Joyce [of Construction Jam] who lives up the street—have a place to sell [their goods].”

Realizing that producers need to reach beyond Mendocino County to stay afloat, Scott became an active member of North Bay Made, a recently formed organization designed “to support regional economic resiliency through developing a recognized brand of excellence.” Counties included in the branding are Sonoma, Solano, Marin, Napa, Mendocino, and Lake. Look for the shelf tags in other stores like Mariposa Market in Willits, Three Sisters in Ukiah, and Harvest Markets in Mendocino and Fort Bragg.

Scott has a unique method for organizing products in the store. The Construction Jams he mentioned are on the top shelf of the jam and jelly section with a “Mendocino Made” shelf tag under them and, according to a hand made sign, are made “In the Hood” near the market. From there the extensive selection expands geographically to jams made in other Mendocino County communities like Talmage, Philo, and Fort Bragg. The “Mendocino Made” jams fill three shelves with no need for other regions. In contrast, the hand made pasta sauce section started with just one “Mendocino Made” sauce, Gattonelli’s Sugopronto, and right next to it Angelo’s and Mia’s Kitchen brands had the “Sonoma Made” tag under them. The selection expands to other “North Bay Made” options from there. “We’re probably the only place you’ll ever come to where the jams [and other products] are organized geographically,” Scott told me.

Added to great groceries I found at the Market is a deli with a variety of enticing dishes made by local restaurants or caterers. You’ll find Frittata, Sweet Potato Tagine, and a Lemon Greek Chicken prepared by Amanda Fairall from Fairall Farm. Elevenzies Cafe in Willits delivered Veggie Enchiladas, Pesto Pasta Salad, and good old Mac and Cheese. I thoroughly enjoyed the warmed, medium-spiced, and perfectly cooked Lemon Greek Chicken over rice for lunch, and sat at one of the window tables that overlooked a residential street and rain-pelted trees. To complete my nostalgic experience, three teenage girls at the next table enjoyed candy and sodas while chatting. They’re from the neighborhood and meet each week at the store to sit and talk.

Favored by many is the store’s wide selection of craft brewed beers. They’re not just in the “North Bay Made” family. You’ll find carefully selected international and national brands that would take a person sampling one unusual brew daily well over two months to complete. It’s touted as the best selection of craft brews north of Santa Rosa.

The delicious deli offerings, expansive beer selection, and thoughtfully curated regional products are just some of the attractions in this local jewel. It’s well worth the perceived “inconvenience” to venture off the beaten path for a visit. When Scott’s behind the counter, I’m sure he’d enjoy sharing his extensive understanding of regional and local food issues. And if it’s Mendocino County local or North Bay regional you’re looking for, you’ll be in the perfect place to find what’s available for your discerning tastes.

“Sheep is Life” at Casari Ranch

story & photos by Mary Charlebois

Turning east on Curly Lane from Hwy 1 just south of Point Arena, a gravel lane crosses rolling hills and pastures bordered by forest and wetlands. Groups of sheep graze meadows and laze in the shade of Cypress trees. Horses roam in the distance. Turning into the ranch driveway, chickens forage near the wool mill. Rambunctious Terrier puppies bark and chase my truck to the ranch house. Raised garden beds are filled with culinary and medicinal herbs. The scene is bucolic.

“Sheep is life”, the Navajo believe. Life on this 532-acre ag-preserve is guided by that awareness. Sheep are farmed here for meat and wool Raised organically, all Casari animals are certified 100% grass fed. No antibiotics, hormones, corn or GMO products are ever used. Casari is a member of: Livestock Conservancy, American Sheep Industry, and California Wool Growers.

Spread between the Pacific Ocean and Mendocino County Forest, Casari is home to four breeds of sheep. The Navajo Churro are an endangered breed. The rare Horned Dorset and Shetland sheep are heritage breeds. Rambouillet are treasured for their wool.

 Casari’s owners, Ariana and Casey, are both lifelong ranchers. Casey grew up on a fourth-generation sheep ranch in Valley Ford, southwest of Santa Rosa. Ariana grew up at the foot of Mount Tamalpais. When they discovered Casari Ranch for sale, they knew it was exactly the place they could fulfill their mission. “We are passionate, creative naturalists who thrive on re-connecting people to land and nature and the art of living simply.”

 Ariana and Casey work with the land using diverse and sustainable practices. Wool and meat are the primary products from the ranch, but other crops and services keep the ranch in balance and operation.

Accomplishing most livestock work themselves, Casey and Ariana begin each day at sunrise. Gates are opened and closed to create pathways giving animals access to new grazing territory. Individual flock members are observed for changes in health. Impending or new births and loss from predators is noted. All the ranch animals are fed and watered. Daily ranch life follows the ever-changing rhythm of seasons, weather and animals.

Casari sheep live in natural flock formations, or family groups. Each flock has several rams representing fathers, sons, uncles and nephews. These family units are pasture raised and grass fed just as their life would be in the wild.

Shearing time is an industrious event twice a year. Organic woolen fleece is shorn by shearers that visit the ranch and give the flock a haircut. Since Casari sheep are Certified Grass Fed by AGW, Animal Welfare Approved and 100% organically raised, the resulting wool is free of residual chemicals.

Wool is a long lasting and sustainable fiber. It has no dust mites, does not mold or mildew, is naturally fire resistant and supports local farming. The ranch wool is organically processed in an on-site wool mill.

A tour of the mill shows the involved process and complex equipment used to change fleece to yarn, cloud-like batting or waterproof felt. Here the difference between breeds comes alive: their wool. Some wool fibers are short and soft, others are long with great tensile strength. Each is perfect for a specific product. Short soft fibers make lofty bedding. Long, tough fibers become rugs that last a lifetime. Natural wool colors vary from white to almost black. While on tour, you may see wool from other farmers, artist and craftsmen. Casari is the only wool processing resource in Mendocino, Marin and Sonoma Counties.

Two to three times a year Casari offers grass fed lamb. All the lambs are organically and humanly raised with their family group. Whole or half lambs are available in March, May, June, October and November.

Casari’s farm stand and mercantile sells seasonal eggs, feral and cultivated herbs, food and flowers. 100% grass fed lamb, artisanal cheeses and other seasonal bounty are stocked in the cooler. Wool bedding and clothing are sold or may be custom ordered.

Guests are welcome to immerse themselves in mill work, ranch work, explore the meadows, woodlands and forest or simply sit and watch the sunrise. A family farmhouse or camping in the shade of a giant cypress grove is offered for those that come to use the mill, enjoy a farm-stay or attend a class.

Take a tour of the property with Ariana and you’ll learn about sheep and their life on the ranch. Hold on tight and be ready for a bumpy ride. The 4-wheel run-about crosses sheep-filled pastures, deep green ravines and wind-swept hilltops. Say hello to donkeys, horses and llamas, ravens, hawks and gulls. Take in an ocean view or watch fingers of fog reaching toward the headlands from the Pacific. Ariana will take you to a fragrant forest for aroma therapy. She’ll show you bubbling springs, lush wetlands, her favorite tree, old homesteads and the best mushroom picking spots. Time spent exploring is calming and rejuvenating. You can’t help but make a connection to this enchanting place, the ranch’s stewards and the animals

Spring 2017 Publisher’s Note

Bees are amazing. The more we learn about their fascinating habits, the more I am impressed with their role in our food supply. Did you know the drones fan their wings to create air conditioning for the hive? Or that, according to the laws of physics, bees should not be able to fly? And that bees communicate the location of water or food through dance? These miniature miracles are an essential part of our food system, pollinating not just the crops that come directly to our table, but those that feed the animals enjoyed by the carnivores among us. With spring at our doorstep and gardens and fields ready for renewal, these productive pollinators deserve to be celebrated.

We also dedicate this spring issue of Word of Mouth to bees because we feel a kinship with these hard working hive dwellers. Like bees’ constant pursuit of pollen, our contributors traverse Mendocino County, gathering the very best stories, seeking out the yummiest restaurants and most intriguing activities to share with our readers. We then transform these initial findings into feature stories and column articles so you can harvest and enjoy the publication in your hands. In it you might make some sweet discoveries—retail gems Westside Renaissance Market (p. 19) and the Elk Store (p. 34), creative cooking at the vegan restaurant Jyun Kang at The City of 10,000 Buddhas (p. 23), new farms to visit like Fortunate Farm (p.5) and Casari Ranch (p. 26), or a new adventure to try like Catching a Swarm (p. 29). And once you’ve sampled any and all of these finds, you’ll likely want to share them with the people you love—which makes you a pollinator, too.

Through their efforts, bees create food stores to feed their hive while simultaneously supporting a new generation of plants and crops, providing sweetness for our fare, either as ingredient or condiment, along the way. May we all live lives of such seamless sustainability, where our work not only benefits ourselves, but the bigger systems on which we depend! B Corps like Thanksgiving Coffee (p. 9) work to do just that, existing not just for profit, but to affect real and positive change in the world.

We thank you for joining Word of MouthMagazine in gathering the sweetness of Mendocino County and sharing it with the world. We might even create some buzzzzzz. (Sorry! Couldn’t resist.)

Holly Madrigal, Publisher

Growing Gratitude at Fortunate Farm in Caspar

story & photos by Sara Liner

Gowan Batist, 28, founder and co-proprietor of Fortunate Farm, knows that a farm lives or dies by its sustainability. She constantly has to weigh her tenderness for all living creatures against the pragmatism required to be a successful farmer. Even the farm kitties who stalk each other playfully beneath an avocado tree, earn their keep: they are fierce mousers, protecting the livestock feed. Every aspect of the farm must work toward the sustainability and symbiosis of the whole because Batist is no trust funder and this farm is no hobby.

Her first season on the farm, Batist lived in a tent comprised of three pallets and a faulty farmer’s market canopy, which she moved whenever her flock moved. She now lives in a 100-year-old cabin, in which we are now sitting. Her parents live on the farm too, and soon so will her grandmother. Batist points out the humble potbelly stove that is both her source of heat and where she cooks her meals. She found it in pieces in a field and then welded it back together. I am reminded that she is from a family of admirably anachronistic pioneer types.
Batist’s humble upbringing taught her the importance of sustainability and gave her the ability make the most of what you have. These skills helped Batist in creating Fortunate Farm, located in coastal Caspar, California. The farm was purchased via a symbiotic partnership with North Coast Brewing Company. President and Co-Founder Mark Ruedrich was looking for an environmentally responsible way to dispose of the brewery’s waste: spent grain, hops, yeast slurry and waste beer. Batist had had success taking these by-products and turning them into microbial rich compost, which she used at the gardens at non-profit Noyo Food Forest. But NCBC still had plenty of excess spent material. Ruedrich pushed Batist, who is now NCBC’s Sustainability Manager, to dream bigger. Why not find a parcel of land to purchase and farm? Batist could use the brewery compost and sell the resulting produce back to NCBC’s Taproom and Grill, full circle.  As it happened, a perfect parcel of land, the Tregoning Farm, was up for sale. Batist knew this was a rare opportunity for a farmer, of modest means, to own and farm land outright. Banks are reluctant to lend money to farms, as farming is by nature an unstable business. “If we wanted to be a feed lot or grow GMO corn, there’s funding for that. But not so much for small sustainable agriculture farms,” Batist says. In 2013 Batist and her family put in for a Farm Service Agency loan. During the government shutdown, the loan was lost. They were turned down by dozens of banks and had almost given up, when Community West agreed to give them a bridge loan, just enough money to purchase 27 acres of Tregoning Farm, while NCBC purchased the remaining 13. “Because we lost the FSA loan, our start-up capital went from $50,000 to literally nothing after purchasing our acreage. We started our first season in 2014 on the farm with no money.” One day, while running errands in the village of Mendocino, Batist returned to her truck to find an anonymous note and $2,000 in cash sitting on her driver’s seat. “It was from a group of local women who wanted to see the farm succeed. From that $2,000 we built our irrigation and purchased seed. It got us through our first season.” Batist says she feels tremendous gratitude for the female farmers who have been her life-long mentors, the original back to the landers, pioneer women.
“There are so many of my peers… who are more knowledgeable than me, who work just as hard, who don’t have this opportunity. That’s my motivation, even when things are really hard, that’s what keeps me going, that I’ve been given a one in a million chance.” adds Batist.
Fortunate Farm is now in its third season of production. It is also a node for Mendo Lake Food Hub, which offers distribution throughout Mendocino and Lake Counties, via refrigerated shipping containers. They deliver to grocery stores, restaurants and farmers’ markets. Farmers from all over the Mendocino Coast drop their goods off at the Fortunate Farm node. Mendo Lake Food Hub has bridged the gap between inland farmers and coast farmers. For instance, in the summer, Ukiah restaurants can get baby greens grown on the coast, and the Fort Bragg eateries can get peppers grown in the heat of the Redwood Valley. “It’s a service more people need to know about,” Batist says.  

As we navigate the farm’s squishy, rain-saturated terrain one late afternoon, Batist, sure-footed in her muddy work boots, points to the garden beds and says “It looks like there’s not much going on now, but there’s plenty happening beneath the surface.” In the distance sheep can be heard bleating. Batist takes me down a footpath and across a narrow cattle bridge to meet them. I am greeted and nuzzled by their woolen muzzles.

Back in Batist’s century-old cabin, I am introduced to her “puppy,” a 120-pound gray mastiff by the name of Weber. He is as sweet and gentle as he is big and leans against me for pettings. In the corner there’s a store of wool from Batist’s flock and a yarn spinning wheel. She uses an Amish Loom to weave the yarn into blankets that protect her against Caspar’s cold winds. She picks up Squeaker Bat, the cabin’s resident mouser cat, who goes docile in Batist’s arms. Sitting at her wheel by the stove, surrounded by her animals and Mason jars of dried herbs, Batist reminds me both of Hestia, Goddess of the Hearth, and Diana, Goddess of Nature and Animals. It is easy for a moment to forget the outside world.

The work is exhausting, the profit margins razor thin. But Batist wouldn’t live her life any other way. She knows she is fortunate to carry on the agrarian rituals and traditions passed down to her through her ancestors, the generations of farmers and homesteaders from whom she descends. “There’s not a day that goes by on this farm that I don’t use a skill or a piece of wisdom my grandfather taught me, and it’s an honor to pass it along,” says Batist.  She brings this idea into every aspect of Fortunate Farm, where traditions, as well as soil, come full circle to condition a sustainable present and future.   

I ask her where the name Fortunate Farm comes from. She smiles. “Actually it’s a quote from my grandfather, who helped raised me and taught me so much of what I know. He was a man of few words, but big big love.  He died not long before we got this farm. He was lucky enough to be at home, surrounded by his family. He looked around us in the room and then into my grandmother’s eyes, and uttered ‘fortunate’ twice. Then he was gone.”

Verdant: A Spring Cocktail by The Golden West Saloon in Fort Bragg

The Golden West Saloon has been in operation as a bar (additionally at different points a brothel and a boarding house) for over 125 years. In 2015, hometown sweethearts Jessica Morsell-Haye and Mikael Haye, in partnership with their dear friend Matthew Barnard, bought the place, fulfilling a dream at least ten years in the making. With the help of their friends, they lovingly restored the Golden West, retaining most of its old timey charm while building one of the greatest selections of small batch gin, whiskey, bourbon and tequila in Mendocino County. Still, don’t expect a cocktail menu when you come in; Haye and Barnard don’t want the place to seem too high falutin’. They embrace fancy-pants city slickers as equally as old timers who just want a beer and a shot. Whoever you are, make sure to carve out time on Sundays when they offer a build-your-own Bloody Mary bar that is not to be missed.

This cocktail, Verdant, is Haye’s recipe. “When I think spring time, I think of bees, I think of honey, walking in the woods, flowers.” Barr Hill Tom Cat Gin is distilled with honey, St. George Terroir Gin features coastal fir and sage, and together they create a drink that is one for the ages—just like the Golden West itself.

Superb Sandwiches and Wonderful Wines: The Elk Store under New Management

The owners of The Elk Store may be the new kids on the block, but the store itself has been operating since 1927. Sean and Elise Ferrarese fell in love with Elk while driving through about ten years ago, “We were driving from our home in Eugene, Oregon to visit family in the Bay Area over the holidays, and Santiam Pass on I-5 was closed.” said Elise. “Our route was detoured to Highway 1, and we really loved the Mendocino coast. We began day-dreaming about moving to Elk and buying the store, and it took us eight years, but we made the move.” Elise left her job as a stream ecologist, and Sean left his job as a teacher (he taught Urban Farming at the University of Oregon and fifth grade). They packed up their young family and bought The Elk Store in August 2014.

The couple is committed to bringing high-quality, local items to the little country store. “We carry a ton of local products because it’s important to us to support the local economy and other small businesses. Plus we really believe in these products and the people behind them. We have gotten to know so many great people in Mendocino through the store” said Sean. The shelves are stocked with goods from The Apple Farm in Philo, Mendocino Tea Company in Albion, Albion Farmers Market soaps, and Piment d’Ville from Boonville, to name a few. They continue to expand their selection, and plan more changes in the future. “We look at the store as a work in progress, and we have a lot of ideas for improving and expanding our business,” remarked Sean.

The Elk Store deli makes an assortment of hot panini sandwiches, specialty deli sandwiches, and soups. They feature ciabatta, focaccia, sourdough and rye breads from Fort Bragg Bakery, high-quality meats and cheeses, and organic avocados, onions and tomatoes. “We believe a good sandwich starts with great ingredients, so we use the best,” said John Holmes, the deli manager. The menu features sandwiches like a hot roast beef panini with grilled onions, cheddar and Jack cheeses with a horseradish aioli served on Fort Bragg Bakery sourdough, or the very popular NorCal with turkey, avocado, Jack cheese, tomatoes, sprouts, and “house mix” (a combination of Mendocino mustard and mayo) on whole grain. The deli serves a house-made clam chowder from Elise’s family recipe (she is from Massachusetts and claims their “chowdah” is “the real deal”). There is also a rotating soup of the day.

Not suprisingly, the Elk Store has a large selection of Mendocino County wines. “Putting in a large wine section was one of our first moves after we bought the store,” said Sean. “We mostly carry Anderson Valley wines, and there is still a ton of variety here.“

“People are always amazed that such a little store has so many great wines, and we have had a lot of fun choosing our wine selection. A lot of our customers are tourists and we like to show them what Mendocino County is all about,” said Elise.

Their business is truly a family affair. Elise and Sean welcomed a new baby boy to their family this fall. They frequently have both of their kids in the store while they are working. Sean’s father helps with deliveries and built the beautiful redwood display tables. They also employ local teens. “This is what our move to Elk was all about,” remarked Sean. “Spending more time together as a family, and making the store a great place for this community.”

Inspired Vegan Food at Jyun Kang Restaurant at the City of 10,000 Buddhas

by Caroline Radice | photos by Ree Slocum

Vegetarian restaurant Jyun Kang is nestled back in the grounds of the City of Ten Thousand Buddhas in the Talmage area just southeast of Ukiah. Jyun Kang means “to your health,” a philosophy demonstrated in their menu of vegan stir-fries, noodle soups, curries and more. The food is nutritious, fresh and vibrant, and a lunch at the restaurant is the perfect antidote for a rainy spring day.

The City of Ten Thousand Buddhas, a Buddhist community and monastery, is one of the largest Buddhist communities in the Western Hemisphere. “The City” is comprised of around 700 acres of land with about 80 developed acres, which includes the Hall of Ten Thousand Buddhas, the Dharma Realm Buddhist University as well as elementary and secondary school programs, and a nine acre CCOF-certified organic farm. The farm has walnut trees, grape vines, and an organic vegetable garden. During the summer months, some of the food for the restaurant is sourced from the garden, where the community grows winter squash, beets, potatoes, eggplant, taro, goji berries, and much more. Many of these crops, plus vegetables from the winter garden are used in the dining hall where the residents of the community eat every day.

The farm promotes sustainable agriculture that cherishes the land and all life, from the many peacocks that roam the grounds to wildlife like deer, who find ways to get over and through fences here, a universal challenge faced by many farmers and gardeners. At the City of Ten Thousand Buddhas, the gardeners look for ways to coexist peacefully and don’t resort to violent or harmful practices when they’re faced with the challenge of wildlife in the garden. The farm has a large composting operation, and works with a nearby vineyard to utilize the waste stream of grape pomace, a byproduct of pressing juice for wine, to improve the soil. Rich in nitrogen, the pomace, made up of the skins, pulp, seeds and stems of the grapes, is an excellent soil amendment. One of the most remarkable sights on the farm is the hanging garden, where kabocha and butternut squash are grown up off the ground on sturdy metal trellises, resulting in high yields of excellent quality vegetables. The kabocha squash is a popular variety, with rich, flavorful flesh that’s delicious in stews and curries.

Whether you’re vegetarian, vegan or an omnivore, the emphasis on fresh, organic vegetables at the City of Ten Thousand Buddhas and Jyun Kang Restaurant is inspiring and thought-provoking. There are certainly a lot of reasons to consider vegetarianism, like a desire to practice compassion for animals and to support a movement away from factory-farming. There are also many health benefits to eating a plant based diet, and numerous advantages to the environment as well. If you’re not ready for a full-time commitment, a meal at the restaurant can serve as inspiration to eat vegetarian food more often. Food writer Mark Bittman wrote: “Part-time veganism is a strategy for integrating the reigning wisdom—eat more plants, less hyper-processed stuff, fewer animal products— into lives that have, until now, been composed of too few of the first and too many of the second and third.”

Philosophy, health and environmental issues aside, though, you really have to try the dumplings. They are filled with vegetables and nuts ground almost like a paté, full of wonderful flavors and surrounded by dense but not heavy dumpling dough. They are especially good with the light vinegar available on each table. Another favorite is the lightly sautéed eggplant, cooked to perfection and accented with fresh basil. The vegetable curry showcased a medley of fresh vegetables in red curry, creamy and not too spicy (our spice level request was “medium”). The house tea was a gentle sipping tea and rounded out the meal beautifully.

Life is too short to eat boring food! If you’re not excited about your lunch today, change your plans and go get a seat at Jyun Kang. You’ll be happy you did.

Menu for Success: Brio Baking in Arcata

story & photos by Ree Slocum

For close to 10 years each time I’ve headed up 101 for hikes, camping, or visiting friends, I’ve looked forward to stopping at Café Brio on the square in Arcata. Flashes of the fresh, robustly brewed artisanal coffee drinks and display cases filled with the most exquisite French pastry, mousses, and cookies start calling me well before I’ve left home. Most recently their “Salted Caramel Pot de Creme” literally made me swoon with pleasure at the first bite.

When it’s lunch or breakfast I’m wanting, I look forward to seeing the current offerings or eating a favorite like the “Brio Classic,” two organic poached eggs on toasted levin (made at the Brio Breadworks). For lunch it’s often the “Avocado Grove” Panini with avocado, chèvre, and caramelized onions. A savory culinary treat made with local and organic ingredients whenever possible.

I was able to get behind the scenes at the café and the Breadworks. In the bustling kitchen Taylor Garcia, pastry and dessert chef, was busy preparing the next morning’s “Ham and Swiss Cheese Croissants”. Chef Leigha Olson, a recent transplant from LA and “meat master momma,” was involved in constructing one of Saturday night’s dinner offerings, “Crab Ravioli,” her own delectable creation. Both chefs are young, intensely focused, and extremely talented.

It was wonderfully dark and quiet on the streets of Arcata when I woke early to visit the Breadworks bakery. Sumptuous bread smells surrounded the loaded delivery vans. They were packed with varieties of baguettes, rolls, focaccia. The breads travel to thirty restaurants and stores, from Garberville to Trinidad—and, of course, to the café.

The atmosphere was hushed in the bakery. I was impressed by the efficiency of Berehan Aneteneh, Andy Clifton, and manager Elana Cattaneo, the team creating Sunflower Seeded Baguettes and Olive Bread. A great way to start a busy day!

It’s impossible to tell the story of Brio Baking without talking about its founder, Serge Scherbatskoy. In 1998 Serge and his wife moved to Arcata from Covelo, in Mendocino County, where he was the chef and owner of the “North Fork Cafe.” In Arcata Serge founded the Brio Breadworks with four employees. He and his wife operated the packaging and distribution using their cars as delivery vehicles. Success was immediate and distribution widened with the Breadworks now employing over twenty with five delivery vehicles.

Serge created the Bistro Café in 2007 on the best retail corner of Arcata’s square. It’s become popular and is the go-to coffee, breakfast, lunch and now weekend dinner place in Arcata.

In 2016, when Serge needed to make improvements in the café and Breadworks, he launched a direct public offering (DPO) of shares in his business, Brio Baking Inc. He promoted Alex Ozaki-McNeill, an employee in the café for six years, as the DPO project manager. “Alex was working here and just graduated [from HSU with a Business degree] and she was going to go off and do something interesting with her life. How about I come up with the interesting thing and she can stay here and be in charge [of the DPO Project],” Serge says. He was thrilled when she accepted the “very challenging and exciting” offer.

By selling shares to the public on a small, local scale, they could create a socially and environmentally responsible investment. “It’s a ‘slow money’ movement,” Serge told me. “We’re involved in a Benefit Corporation that allows the board of directors to make decisions that aren’t based solely on profit.”

Alex filled me in about the incentives and paybacks in Brio Baking. Not only do investors take pride in keeping their money local, they also support local businesses with healthy production practices. In addition they earn 3.5% annual dividend, enjoy and participate in “Brio Benefits” like wine tastings and pairings, farm-to-table yearly dinners, bread and other food workshops, and give-a-ways. Alex has made it quite easy to invest online or in person.

As I headed south towards home I realized a new and deeper appreciation for the detailed thinking it takes to make a good idea GREAT. And I had eaten the “Pot de Creme” takeout before I passed the lagoon north of Eureka!

Spring DIY: Catching a Swarm

by Torrey Douglass

You know the feeling. The pantry is full of stored food, the morning sun warms your porch, and everyone in the household, from workers to drones, are buzzing happily along. But at some point—maybe after your thirty-thousandth child—things start to feel a little tight. You want some room to spread your wings. So you embark on the bee equivalent of calling up your real estate agent: It’s time to swarm.

If you’ve ever had a hankering to try your hand at beekeeping, or if you already have bees but want to know what to do when half of your hive decides to take for the hills, catching a swarm is not as hard as you might think. Anderson Valley homesteaders, Darius Richmond and Julie Liebenbaum, have caught a few over the years. According to them, the key, like in so many things, is preparation.

As owners of The Boonville General Store it makes sense that Julie and Darius take their food seriously. They are the type of homesteaders who will tackle anything from grafting to butchering, winemaking to beekeeping. I sat down with the two of them on a rainy afternoon for a cup of honey-sweetened tea and a conversation about how a beekeeper or wanna-be-beekeeper can catch a swarm.

Here’s what I learned: Experts believe bees swarm when the hive gets too crowded. Typically swarming occurs in the spring, which gives the bees time to build up food stores in their new home before winter. The queen bee takes a break from her opulent regimen of eating royal jelly and laying eggs in order to lose enough weight to be able to fly, at which point she leaves the hive and lands on a nearby branch. Several thousand of her protective workers quickly surround her to keep her safe, forming a buzzing cluster of bees.

This is the swarm, and it can contain up to twenty or thirty thousand bees. They will remain gathered on their branch while scouts explore the area for new digs. If left to their own devices, the scout bees will return, communicate the housing options through their little bee dances, and by some bee magic (Body language? Pheromones? Telepathy? No one really knows.) agree on and fly off to the best spot. “It can happen really fast,” says Julie. “We’re talking minutes, not hours.” Hence the importance of being prepared beforeyou notice the swarm.

To be prepared, have on hand a “hospitable box,” says Darius. You can get a new bee box from your apiary supply source, or use an old one. It should be clean, with no mold, and a little bit of old wax from previous bees (you can add the old wax to a new box if that’s what you’re using). Situate the box on a raised platform to discourage ants, in a spot where it’s warmed by the morning sun, and provide a wind break behind it—a sheet of corrugated metal on two T-posts is an easy solution if you don’t have a tree line or other natural wind break. Most importantly, make sure there’s plenty of access to bloom and forage, and clean water as well. Hungry bees don’t stick around. Lastly, you’ll need the box frames in which the bees will store their honeycomb and honey.

When you notice the swarm, slide most of the frames into the box, leaving a gap of a few inches in the middle. Place the box under the branch where the swarm is gathered. While swarming bees are fairly docile, you might want to wear a bee suit to protect yourself. Give the branch a single, forceful knock so the main clump of bees drops into the box—remember, they are surrounding the queen, and getting the queen is essential. The goal is to have 60-70% of the bees land inside the box with that first strike.

Next, carefully slide the missing frames into the box, leaving just enough “bee space” between them so bees can move around. Wait about a half hour so as many of the other bees as possible can join the captured group—the greater the number of bees, the more likely the hive will survive. Then add the cover and tape over the entrance, and move the box back to its platform. Remove the tape from the entrance, though Darius recommends reducing it to 2” down from the usual 10” for a day or two to discourage the bees from resuming the swarming process.

Now cross your fingers and hope the bees take to their new home. If you’ve created the right conditions, they should settle in and start getting back to their bee-siness. “I’m a low intervention bee keeper,” says Darius, who generally lets the bees manage themselves. “I do it for the honey, the pollination benefits to my garden, and the joy of learning. It’s the kind of subject that can take a lifetime to master.” If it’s a pursuit you (and your garden, and your tea) might enjoy, catching your own swarm could be an easy way to start.

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Main photo by Andy Balestracci; swarm photos by Julie Liebenbaum and Darius Richmond; honey photo by Torrey Douglass

New Potatoes

New potatoes are soft skinned and do not require lengthy cooking. They taste of sweet spring goodness. This recipe is inspired by Braised Potatoes with Lemon and Chives by Cooks Illustrated.

SPRING SAUTÉED POTATOES

1 1/2 lbs small new potatoes

1 cup water

2 Tbsp butter

2 sprigs fresh herbs

3 cloves garlic

ó tsp salt

Juice of 1/2 lemon

1/2 tsp fresh ground pepper

1 Tbsp chopped chives

Using a skillet place the whole potatoes in a single layer. Add water, butter, herbs, salt and garlic and bring to a simmer. Cover and cook for about ten minutes until potatoes are tender when pierced with a fork. Using a spatula, smash the potatoes into flat discs. Remove the lid and take out the herbs and garlic, set aside. Increase heat until water is completely evaporated. In a small bowl mash the softened garlic, lemon juice and pepper. Once potatoes have begun to brown remove from heat and stir in lemon mixture and chives. Delicious!

Thanksgiving Coffee shows us how to Bee the Change

by Holly Madrigal & Torrey Douglass

 It’s a simple logo: the letter B centered in a circle with the word “Certified” above and “Corporations” below. Perhaps you’ve seen it on a box of tea or some eco friendly body care products. Like the Non-GMO Project and USDA Organic symbols, the B Corp logo signifies a third party certification that guarantees adherence to a particular set of standards and builds consumer trust. For shoppers looking for a “purchase with a purpose,” that simple logo carries serious weight.

 According to the B Corp community website, B Corporations “aspire to use the power of markets to solve social and environmental problems.” The certification process is voluntary, and companies must receive at least 80 out of 200 on their Impact Assessment, a process that measures an applicant’s impact on the environment, their workers, their customers, and the community. The rigorous vetting can benefit both the planet and a company’s bottom line. Think of the millennials: over 75 million strong, and surveys reveal they cite sustainability as a motivating purchasing priority.

We have a number of B-Corps in Mendocino County, and the community is taking notice. Check out long time Fort Bragg coffee roaster Thanksgiving Coffee, a company who actively embraces the concept of “business as a force for good.” When founders Paul and Joan Katzeff first opened their doors in 1972 the coffee world was a very different place. Over the years Paul and Joan have integrated their deep respect and love of both people and environment into their business practices. Thanksgiving Coffee was one of the first to travel to the coffee producing regions of Nicaragua, Rwanda, and Uganda, to not only create relationships with coffee farmers and purchase their beans, but also to invest in issues important to those communities like improving bird habitat, protecting the mountain gorilla, and supporting small-scale coffee farmer cooperatives.

This altruistic focus has not distracted from their core passion: the procurement and production of excellent coffee. Their state of the art facility in Noyo Harbor roasts up some of the best joe in the world. The prestigious Roast Magazine recently awarded ‘2017 Macro Roaster of the Year’ to Thanksgiving Coffee, and the competition comparing artisan roasters from around the world was fierce. “It is an honor to bring this award back to Mendocino County” says Thanksgiving Coffee Roastmaster and Fort Bragg local, Jacob Long.

Earning the B-Corp certification in November of 2015 affirms what those familiar with the company already know: that Thanksgiving Coffee puts its beliefs into action. Recently Paul Katzeff was contacted by the non-profit Friends of the Earth regarding the perilous health of bees and other pollinators, and true to form he dove in and helped create an initiative: the Bee Bold Mendocino campaign, which seeks to educate the community about how to make our county ‘Bee Friendly’. The Bee Bold coffee comes in different roasts and features organic, shade grown coffee from Guatemala, Rwanda, Peru and Nicaragua. One dollar of the proceeds from every bag of Bee Bold coffee helps fund the Bee Bold Mendocino initiative, whose board of directors includes Thanksgiving Coffee Company, the Noyo Food Forest, master gardeners and local bee keepers. This motived group was the driving force behind Fort Bragg, California becoming the first “Bee City” in the state.

Fort Bragg is hopefully a first step in making this whole county “Bee Friendly”. This designation involves eliminating the use of Neonics, a systemic pesticide that poisons nectar and pollen. Residents are encouraged to plant bee sanctuaries full of forage plants that bloom throughout the seasons. Bee Bold Mendocino also hosts educational events around the county. Lavender Cinnamon, former facilitator of the initiative, advocates planting native wildflowers along the highways and roads of Mendocino County to improve bee habitat. Our area could become known for the seasonal flower display as well as supporting a vigorous bee population.

Along with fellow B-Corp-ers Harvest Market, Fetzer Vineyards and North Coast Brewery, Thanksgiving Coffee goes above and beyond their contribution to our economy. Ghandi instructed us to “be the change you wish to see in the world.” Supporting bees through the Bee Bold campaign is just one way Thanksgiving Coffee is doing just that. Their slogan ,“not just a cup, but a just cup” resonates with their commitment to not just make great coffee but to make the world a better place—particularly for the bees.

Japanese Street Food

story & photos by Lisa Ludwigsen

When I stepped off the plane in Tokyo I really had no idea where I was headed. I planned to spend a couple of weeks visiting friends, eating lots of sushi, exploring the place I was born, and zipping around the country on the bullet train. I couldn’t imagine how much this brief vacation would shape my appreciation for everything about the Japanese and their contradictory, complex culture. Somehow this tiny country of 125 million people manages to successfully balance a deep commitment to its ancient history with quirky, whimsical fashion, frenetic pop culture, and tantalizing, creative street food.

Sold in small shops or on streets throughout Japan are the otherworldly takoyaki or “octopus balls”—a thin batter of finely chopped octopus, eggs, flour, and dashi, a seaweed stock that is poured into a cast iron griddle of uniform cups. As it cooks, the batter is quickly turned using chopsticks until the resulting ball is golden brown and slightly crispy on the outside and creamy inside. Takoyaki are topped with bonito flakes or seaweed, or in one spot, little flakes of gold leaf. They taste like fluffy, not quite thoroughly cooked fish cakes.

It’s not a surprise that the Japanese have balanced salty, sour, sweet, crisp, and savory umami. Fermented foods are an ongoing part of life there and eating in Japan really feels good. I wondered why Americans couldn’t embrace a cool, crisp, lightly pickled cucumber on a thick skewer as a quick snack, especially when it’s offered up in a big tub at a street market.

The universal appeal of deep-fried anything is in full glory in katsu—a variety of items like yams, chicken pieces, even hard boiled quail eggs, that are coated in fluffy panko, skewered, and deep fried. They’re eaten on the go or taken home.

And don’t forget the bento box—artfully arranged assortments of rice, fish, umeboshi plum, pickled vegetables, and fried meats. Bentos reflect the incredible attention to detail paid to all aspects of life in Japan, making something as simple as eating rice a deep pleasure and meditation on thoughtful living. Fancy bentos are sold at transportation stations. Simple, basic “work meal” bentos are found at convenience stores.

Perhaps the biggest surprise for two hungry and tired Americans was the fantastic selection of snacks and meals at convenience stores. Yes, food at 7-11 stores in Japan was yummy, inexpensive, and surprisingly high quality, with not a shriveled hot dog in sight. We ate at least one meal a day at a 7/11 or Lawson’s Market. To-go sushi, seaweed-wrapped rice triangles filled with pickled meats or veggies called onigiri, thick slices of soft bread sold by the slice, light and creamy desserts, and even coffee Jell-O. Perhaps most surprising was Japanese egg salad, a soft, fluffy concoction of egg and savory mayo sold in vacuum sealed packages. I’ve tried making egg salad with Japanese mayo from Japantown and been unable to capture that uniquely pillowy texture and taste.

If food reflects a place’s culture, then Americans can learn a lot from the Japanese. Pay attention to the details, concentrate on ways to make basic ingredients shine, and look for the opportunity to make the simple into something special, even with humble street food.

Cesar Toxqui Cellars: Multi-heritage Heirlooms

by Heidi Cusick Dickerson

photos by Ree Slocum

Although he didn’t grow up with wine at the table, Cesar Toxqui (pronounced “SES-zar TOE-ski”) feels he was born with an innate affinity for winemaking that began subliminally where he was born and matured over his last two decades working in Mendocino wineries. Cesar, who was born in Mexico and Ruth, his wife from the Philippines, are proprietors of Cesar Toxqui Cellars (CTC) in Hopland.

“I grew up near Cholula, Puebla, one of the places in Mexico where the first vines were planted in the 1500s by the Spanish in the New World,” says Cesar. As he puts it, “it sure was exciting to find out this piece of history. No wonder I love making wine, it runs in my veins!”

Cesar moved to the United States at the age of sixteen. He met the late renowned Mendocino winemaker Jesse Tidwell and got a job on his bottling line. When Cesar graduated from Ukiah High in 1989 he went to work at Tidwell’s Parsons Creek winery in Ukiah. Later, Cesar joined Brutocao Cellars in Hopland where he was the cellar master for ten years.

“The Brutocaos are a great family. I will always be grateful for their support in encouraging me to work on my own label venture,” he says. After Brutocao, Cesar worked as the winemaker for Mendocino Farms (which later became Campovida), where he learned the art of organic and Biodynamic winemaking.

From Mendocino Farms Cesar became the head winemaker for Jeriko Estates and improved his skills on Biodynamic Pinot Noir. “Pinot Noir is such a delicate grape, it requires intuition and experience,” says Cesar, who was extremely proud when the Wine Enthusiast gave his 2013 Pinot Noir Pommard Jeriko Estate 93 points. “To receive such a score for Pinot Noir grown inland in Mendocino County was just amazing to say the least,” beams Cesar.

While Cesar was working in different wineries, he was meticulously honing his skills by blending homemade wines. “People said I should create my own wine label,” says Cesar. The Cesar Toxqui brand launched in 2005.

 CTC is a family operation. In their charming brightly lit tasting room in downtown Hopland, you’ll often find Ruth, 13-year old daughter Paloma, and son Hugh Oliver, 20, whose name graces their new sparkling wine label.

Cesar Toxqui Cellars produces about 2,500 cases a year. “We are a mom and pop boutique winery, we do everything from winemaking to marketing,” says Ruth, the vivacious marketing arm of Cesar Toxqui Cellars. Cesar has created a label in her honor called “Ruthless Red.” It refers to times when Cesar is in the tasting room alone and wine club members come in looking for Ruth. Cesar’s face lights up with his response, “I’m Ruth-less today,” he grins, sharing a glimpse of his ironic humor.

 In addition to using organically grown grapes, Cesar and Ruth are committed to creating wines that have “heritage.” Their Uno Heirloom Red Wine released in 2005 was a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel and Merlot wines made by Cesar Toxqui. “It’s a unique style,” explains Cesar, whose Heirloom wine is made only when they have the best blending grapes. For the first Heirloom, which was a blend of all the wines they made that year, they had six barrels of wine but only bottled four, setting aside two for Heirloom Two. “Part of our history is in these bottles, which contain wine from every vintage and varietal made so far by us.” Currently CTC is offering Heirloom Six.

 In addition to CTC’s Heirloom red wines, they make award winning Zinfandel, Merlot, Grenache, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, Sparkling Wine, and a fortified after dinner wine they named Dolce Paloma Bella after their daughter. For white wine lovers, Cesar produces Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Viognier and a sweet Muscat Canelli.

As one of the friendliest tasting rooms around, Cesar Toxqui Cellars is especially inviting when Ruth is serving food, which is often a mixture of both family heritages. Filipino lumpia filled with vegetables and shrimp are a favorite. Cesar, who is a 2016 graduate of Leadership Mendocino Class XXIII, and Ruth donated a dinner to the Leadership Mendocino fundraiser last year. Eight guests were treated to a multi-course winemaker dinner served by the family at the tasting room. Cesar paired a 2014 Pinot Noir from Yorkville Highlands with a winter salad topped with pears, walnuts and gorganzola. The main course was Tri-tip with bright chimichurri sauce, buttercream potatoes and brocolinni with the 2013 Cabernet Sauvingon. Everyone felt like guests in their home.

Douglas Fir Tip Sorbet

THESE BRIGHT, TANGY HARBINGERS OF SPRING MAKE A ZINGY SORBET WITH MORE THAN ITS SHARE OF IMMUNITY-BOOSTING VITAMIN C

The bright green tufts on Douglas Fir (Pseudotsuga menziesii) trees are some of the first signs of spring. The new growth is soft and lime green in color and packed with Vitamin C. The flavor is a balance of citrus peel and foresty goodness.

It can be made into a calming tea by steeping tips in boiled water for ten minutes. Fir tip syrup makes an excellent cocktail mixer: simmer and reduce three cups water, half cup sugar and handful of fir tips by half and strain into a bottle. Or try this fun and different spring time treat, Fir Tip Sorbet. Remember when harvesting that you are in effect pruning the tree so select tips from alternating branches, not all in one place. You can be daring and nibble a fir tip in the field. The taste should be a bright glimpse of spring.

DOUGLAS FIR TIP SORBET

3 cups water

1 cup sugar

3 cups rinsed fresh fir tips

1 tsp fresh lime zest

three or four fresh mint leaves

2 tsp lime juice

bright fir tips or dark chocolate curls for garnish

Bring water, sugar and fir tips to a boil. Cover, turn off heat and steep for 20 minutes. Add lime zest and mint and steep for 10 more minutes. Remove solids using a fine mesh strainer. Reserve the liquid, stir in lime juice and let cool. Pour syrup into a rimmed baking sheet or ice cream maker. Freeze, stirring ice crystals with a spatula every hour until it reaches desired consistency. Scoop into bowls and garnish with a couple of fresh fir tips or shaved dark chocolate.